wil440

I'm pretty sure your $5.64 should be in £ as £1.50 is $2.04 Our gallons are bigger at 4.5 ltrs so it's £6.75 or $9.17 £9.50 per hr or $12.91 3.78 litres to a US gallon so thats £5.67 per US gallon or $7.70

Blackthorn cider, not the best cider but you could still never drink too much of it, Henry Westons @7,5% is a good cider, you can get cider here up to 15% abv Birmingham is only 20 miles away from me I'm a bit further up the M42

No pulley on a diesel, it just bolts up to the back of the vac pump, IIRC there is a drive piece also

Might get 2 litres here for $3.39 We're at £1.49 ish a litre for diesel

here's picture looking straight at the 2 tangs

In fact the tangs should be square mine were pointed, one edge was like ground off to 45 deg Plausible

Drive tangs are on the outside and nothing to do with oil side are they not ?? It appeared to me as though the shaft/drive had been made out of totally the wrong steel more like chocolate or the piece that drives it was too hard

I probably would have got more miles out of mine before it leaked if I hadn't been dumb and put atf in it but the wear on the drive tangs would have killed it anyway

That is the worst, as you say much better to own up to messing up I ordered a rebuild kit for my P/S pump, luckily I'd also ordered a pump too as being in the UK and the truck being my work tow truck parked waiting for parts isn't an option, good job I did the drive tangs were very badly worn to the point where I wasn't happy using the old pump. At the time my truck had done 165k ish, seemed to me to be a lot of wear for just 165k. I wondered if the pump had been replaced before at some point and the drive and shaft was new and MIC out of rice flour, it just seemed way too much wear for a OEM part at 165k Mike will say "large tyres"

One thing my radiator saga has pointed out is that suppliers of everything are having real supply problems due to Covid, I had 3 Mishimoto radiators cancelled and one was a month after order and payment. I use 8x4 sheets of 5mm aluminium for tipper truck floors when they are on Tarmac for roads, has to be a specific grade so the tar doesn't stick, not available and been like this for over a year, the big companies snap it all up and none left for anyone else. They may not be messing you around intentionally and to risk reputation for $20 is rather stupid

It's the assembly line mentality, if the wrong frame is in the frame line then there is no way to take it off and if they could there is no way to replace it with the correct one and the correct frame would be weeks away anyway, this is JIT assembly so if the "system" thinks the wrong frame is the right frame the actual right frame never gets built unless asked for again by the "system" which means a bod going in and re requesting American spec backhoe is different to the rest of the world as your legs fold down where ours come straight down from turrets each side of the frame so wrong frame is always a frame change later by guys like I was, cabs are the same, don't forget the actual time in each station was around 6 minutes then the line moves, so cab drop was 6 minutes to drop onto the frame bolt down and hook everything up, very stressful job that. I and 7 others actually spent nearly 2 years pulling trans out of backhoes because of oil leaks between torque convertor and pump, was over 50% failure rate straight off the line but production kept going, took over 2 years to figure out why the leaks even though it was plainly obvious, which was , 6 minutes to pick the torq and flex plate bolt the two together and fit to trans AND then marry the trans to engine and bolt everything up inc fit the starter. The nose of the torq was never checked or cleaned and was then just fitted into the pump with no thought for the seal or bush, everyone we stripped had seal damage or bush damage or cardboard/debris in the seal lip, I think 8 of us did around 800 over 2 years and we had 3 failures We spent a month in Waco Texas at a Cat storage facility and 3 teams of 2 and we were doing 2 each per day, trans out, new pump,new torq and refit did 130 in a month, cheaper to send us than use the Texas cat dealer which is Holt caterpillar who were charging $6k each and taking 2 days each one, we'd done 100's by this time so was real easy, was a good months holiday really Oh and as for interesting maintenance..., Range Rover with the V6 diesel, turbo problems the whole body has to come off POS

Yes Caterpillar call it Six Sigma, basically subsystems built away from the production line and all relying on Lean build which means carry nothing except just what is needed right now. Engines and trans arrive at the fitting station fully assembled then bolted in, cab would arrive at cab drop fully built with the only parts not fitted being stuff that stops the actual cab from being fitted, they have 100's of people usually more than the actual people that assemble making all this work, takes ages to rectify problems, copied from the Japanese Upside of it is no skills needed for assembly line as each person follows a procedure to the letter, downside is anything outside of the "procedure" is no ones problem and no one is skilled enough to deal with problems anyway. I spent 5 years at Cat working in major repair on the backhoe line, wrong cabs fitted, wrong frames used, and anything else you could possibly imagine

That is the very kit although there is smaller, I have a smaller kit, as for the 12 gauge wires there are different terminals that except different sized wires The upside of the Deutz stuff is it comes to pieces easily but is very waterproof Yes, never know which pronunciation to use, either one will bring up what you need in a search...... they are really the dogs nuts and everyone that runs anything sort of old ish needs a basic kit the really big last time I did save some ££ was a Cat 972H machine harness @£2500 + ........ cost less than £10, a lot of time to fix it but no where near £2500 maybe £75, reason being Cat wiring insulation breaks down to glue if exposed to hydrocarbons

Check out Deutz connectors, Caterpillar use them and they are infinitely rebuildable/fixable, local Cat dealer will stock them in all sizes from 2 terminal upwards They are also on Amazon and Ebay, very common here not sure where you are The terminals are crimped onto the wires but the down side of that is at least here in the UK the crimp tool is expensive as it has 4 pieces that push into the terminal to crimp it, locks just pull out with a simple hook tool which is easily made. Thing is you wouldn't really need to get Deutz connectors that 100% mirror what you need, say you have a 20 wire connector you could use any to get you there may mean more than one but you can use blanks for the ones you don't need ONE TIP that you should not disregard.... buy gold plated terminals and this is not some bling this means the actual surface area between the 2 pieces is greatly increased, here gold plated are over a £1 each but well worth it. I would take pictures of each connector, chop them out and replace with deutz and I'll bet you can get the crimp tool for $20 at home depot or sears or the like Or I'll post you mine and you post them back Every connector that I have to fix on my truck gets replaced by a Deutz and here is another tip, if you look into a connector both male and female and it has either a green or orange piece in the centre try and hook it out if it comes out and what it's connected to are junk cut it off and keep both, disassemble and all you need are pins and sockets

No... you need to spread a little thought on it, I have had 2 astrazenica and 1 Pfizer booster, we are doing that here to get as much immunity as possible as in mixing vacs My wife has has 3 pfizer jabs, not sure why she didn't get a mix, she had it mildly in the summer, I didn't show any symptoms at this point at all although I cannot see how I wasn't exposed to it, this time I'm not right but still able to work (not outside of my property boundaries as I have a lot of jobs to do on vehicles for others so not mixing with people) I look at it differently, you say the vac doesn't work I say I'm not dead so it must work 90% of the people in our hospitals either have had no vaccines at all or haven't had their 3rd booster and I'll bet we're at 200k cases a day in the UK easy if not double that, we cannot get lateral flow tests or PCR tests as the UK has run out due to demand, while this new strain Omicron (sounds like a damn transformer) has lesser symptoms the amount of people getting it means our hospitals in 2 weeks or so will be in trouble and not necessarily from patients or deaths but just from heathcare people off sick

I did use Ubuntu for a while on a desktop quite a few years ago now, actually dual boot with Xp prof, daren't try it on this laptop as it has a lot of mobile plant diagnostic software on it

Both me and my wife are triple jabbed, wife is worse than be by a long way and this is her 2nd time she's had it, the 1st time she got it I didn't and this time I feel like crap but still working outside whereas she is flat out in the chair My radiator arrived today from Rockauto and believe it or not it is bent, box was not damaged so I'm sure it was made like that and I haven't yet checked whether it's just the top/bottom plates, hopefully it won't leak

If you do a internet search it brings up P1287 DODGE - Fuel Injection Pump Controller Supply Voltage Low Condition here in articles P1287 VP44 Injection Pump Controller Supply Voltage Low - OBDII Error Codes - Mopar1973Man's Dodge Cummins Forum not sure why but it didn't paste as a link seems that if I disable paste as a link it does paste as a link microsoft rubbish

My hoses and new clamps arrived from Rock before xmas think the rad is due tomorrow but myself and my wife have gone and tested pos for covid now, not severe at the moment and triple jabbed anyway

After reading over the responses I can see where tractorman is coming from with a hydraulic problem but there is also one other thing that could cause both rear brakes to drag and that is the primary E brake cable from the cab or the E brake lever seizing or at least sticking, my lever does sometimes not quite come off

I have a Volvo 2020 XC40 hybrid thing, great car but souless, my wife drives it, range is 24 or so miles on electric but much lower this time of year due to running heater,seat heaters and stuff which is all on battery if it's charged, my wife never does more than 10mile per day so it is almost always on electricity, MPG display I think cannot go over 150mpg which is what it is always at, we have had it 3 months and the main dealer we got it from filled it with petrol before we drove it away, still on 1/2 tank and that is down to me as we are now on this E10 I think and they say it goes off faster so I when I drive it I make sure it uses petrol, 1500cc 3 cylinder petrol turbo 160hp and a 80hp electric motor, if you stomp it both run and boy does it go. I hate it but have to admit it is a good car. I drive my ram 99.9% of the time, diesel here is £1.50 ish per litre so £6.75 a UK gallon which is just over $9, our pumps stop pumping at £100 which doesn't fill it from a line below 1/2 I need to get a set of injectors asap as my load at idle is low and MPG is low but it is mostly always towing, I just fill it and drive even at £1.50 per litre and yes I do have bigger wheels and tyres but they are not coming off, I'd put up with 5mpg

Not necessarily within the last 2 years just a year on year maybe, I see your thinking but I don't know, here woke,cancel and the rest is getting the better of this country

If these are opposing taper bearings instead of unit bearings then the way to do them IF you have no instructions whatsoever Make sure outer races have been bottomed out correctly and the seating area was spotless, if bearings weren't changed then forget this Tighten to a fair torque say around 35lbft, turn hub a few times, tighten some more, turn hub a few times making sure it turns with no rough bits, at this point I would hit the hub with a soft deadblow just to be sure the bearings are seated. By now you want some resistance to turn, if hitting with the deadblow loosens the turn tighten a little more at least until no change is seen by turning and deadblow. Slacken off and then turn, by this time only the top rollers will be turning, slowly tighten the nut until all rollers are turning but only just. I myself pay no attention to bearing nut torque at all and always do it by feel Just make sure to note IF the split pin holes don't line up go tighter but only by a little

Those hoses look fine to me except maybe the last one

Crime rates now you got me started, Cities just aren't safe especially London, knife crime is ridiculous We have just had a law change after 3 or 4 kids have been killed by ..... wait for it...... parents or at least one parent in another relationship, One pair poisoned a little boy with doses of salt and finally killed him by smashing his head onto the floor several times, horrifying, another pro kickboxer (woman) kicked a little girl to death, this is within the last month or so Law was changed to life means life for crimes like this but still nowhere near harsh enough I really can't say where a lot of our other violent crime originates from certainly not on here but take an educated and you'd be right