wil440

I fitted a Cat filer head just after I got the truck, also got 2 other cat heads of which 1 is a water seperator and filter the other has a little 12v primer built in but if I think it needs prime I would prefer the slightly older cat head with mechanical prime but I doubt I'll need it.... we'll see

Losing prime on a diesel doesn't bother me in the slightest only been a heavy diesel mechanic for 42 years and supervisor of a heavy plant workshop for the last 5 years. If I does lose prime which it wont i'll fix the reason

how do you figure that out ?? I have access to every Cat filter head they ever made with manual primers/ 12v prime pumps/24v prime pumps, every Cat fuel system and all parts and Cat SIS and Volvo Prosis, sooner I get shut of the electric pump the better

I have several options for a priming pump if required but I can't really see the need either, one option is a Cat filter head with a priming plunger in the filter head, this type is fitted to Cat 330D excavators and no doubt a lot of other cat machines before they too went electric, cat went electric lift pump not because they are better but they needed to be able to turn on and off the DPF diesel supply so electric pump with a DPF supply solenoid. The city diesel ban is the 2nd in England... first was Bristol, one near me is Nottingham and of course you have to pay to drive an older vehicle into london anyway, don't know the details on london as I'd rather eat glass than go there so no knowledge

Ordered both a Quad and Assassin last week, just waiting for them to arrive, it will be an ouch on the import duty and tax into the UK but thats life i'm afraid. Going to fit the Fuel transfer pump first, looking forward to getting shut of the electric thing. Not interested in getting on the more power bus with the quad just want to build a good mpg towing tune thats clean. One city 15 miles from me is going carbon neutral within the next few years which means a total ban on diesel vehicles, this can only get worse here so clean as me thinks. If that fails sell the cummins back into USA and spend the £ on my gas ram ☺

Been really busy lately so had no time for anything but I have been looking for a neat fuse and relay box for the truck just for everything that gets added, first requirement was a fused supply for the leisure battery on the 5th wheel, doesn't need a high amp fuse but wanted to fuse it before the split charge relay. I was looking at a marine box but it was made in china and couldn't find anything with any more than 4 relay slots. I came across a modular fuse box on ebay out of a Ford Mondeo (uk) its a U shaped bracket that holds 3 seperate fuse relay holders and there is also slots around the outside to mount more relays if needed, just so happens the mounting studs for the bracket are the same spacing as the 2 studs behind the trim under the cup holder. So I just used a Stauff clamp fixed nut to change from a stud to a deep nut, drilled 2 holes in the trim cover and I now have the bracket mounted,wiring is all done at the back and now i've just got to run a supply from the pdc and we are good, aux fuse box in the cab, I will find something to shield the ecu behind the trim from electromagnetic interferance to be on the safe side, each part of the box has its own lid there is 2 more but I think 1 will be plenty

Exhaust flow drives the exhaust side which compresses air on the intake side, intake air is piped to the wastegate actuator which dumps intake pressure to the exhaust side after the impellor when intake pressure gets over a set point, so exhaust only produces the power to drive the shaft it plays no part in the wastegated psi of the intake

I will add the subscription isn't required to get help....

Bumper is the frame... body isn't, have you got a good body to frame earth ?? And Evan you might want to check the above, although there is some truth in the merit of your quote

I'm over 3k miles away in the uk but there is one thing I know for sure...... post up here what you are trying to figure out and you will get all the info you need without laying out any $$ other than the subscription to this hive of information

Snap On Modis reports good but here you'd get a gas ram complete for the cost of a modis ☺

My 98.5 had both window switches not working when I got it, It hasn't got auto down which for me is ok but I did fix both my switches, IIRC I managed to cut a small strip off of a nail filing board and get the contacts cleaned off, it was fiddly but been ok since, don't know if 01 has similar switches though ?

Is the tank 1/2 full or is the gauge 1/2 full. My 3500 v8 left me stranded a few years ago with gauge saying 1/2 full, tank empty, sender faulty

In theory you should go back and check for the 50lbft BUT if the fastener torque was dry and not lubed and by that I don't just mean the threads I also mean under the head/washer then you won't really see any movement as dry it would take more torque to start the fastener moving again than the compression of the gasket from the first to the last if that makes sense, also a lot of torque wrenches aren't that good at a pound or 2, another thing to remember is the length of the cylinder head and the circle of the bore and fastener spacing, the longer the head the bigger the difference between 1st bolt and last, how far to the next fastener is down to bore size and fastener spacing better way is to do the 50ftlbs in several increments, say 20/15/15, that way it's a much lower number to be out and you'd only ever be a small % of 15 out, large cummins and cat advise this and to wait a little inbetween as heads can be 5ft plus easy

son has just decided to go on his own groundworking maybe 2 months ago, he bought a 2013 Peugeot Boxer 3.5 tonne tipper, this cleared him out on his savings last wednesday on comes a warning....." engine oil pressure insufficient" so he moves it 100 yards off the job and checks engine oil, then on seeing it ok moves it 10ft again then the damn rattle Gets it towed and the garage quotes him £1000 to change the oil pump with no guarantee it will be ok or £9K for a engine So he calls me...... he knows I'm busy all the time, I call several engine reconditioners who say £2600 fitted so towed to mine, after work this morning I spend ONE hour taking the sump off and a further 1/2 hour taking the pump off.... I have never seen a bigger POS oil pump in my 40 odd years in the trade, it's a vane pump with what appears to be fixed STEEL vanes, will strip the pump further tomorrow, well it's sh~~ it's self big time, pump is chain driven off of the crank with the drive gear behind the camshaft chain, it is a Ford engine and whoever decided to drive it behind the cam chain wants shooting especially as you wouldn't use this pump to pump stuff around a fish tank never mind a motor, you can get the pump off no problem but I don't think it would take a deal to break the chain, luckily this chain is ok Looks like he's been lucky so I'm at £150 to fit a new oil pump, new sump cos that was near on welded on and oil. I did ask one of the "people" who contacted me after the recon engine internet form filling as to whether it had a girdle and she said "NO and I should know I worked for Peugeot for 15 years" well guess what it does and I guessed as much as Ford seem to be cheapening out on the block among other parts and then girdling it so no main caps This engine is fitted to Ford transits, Peugeot Boxers, Fiats, Landrover Defenders at least here, Ford have a recall, no one else has here, what a POS, worth noting that the 2.2 ford is oil pump disaster, maybe you guys don't get it as too small ???

I'm fitting a 13 pin which is no problem. This has answered my question, nothing on your pin 4 but aux battery charging, here on the euro caravans the fridge is powered by 12v and has a ignition switched feed in a 13 pin socket I already have a uk 7 pin so I'm going to use a junction box to add in the first 7 on a 13 pin socket then the aux battery charging and grounds, I just wasn't sure on the fridge

I haven't collected the 5er yet so no idea of amp draw yet. The place I got the 5er from said they use this 40amp switch from Pollack on every split charge they do. That doesn't mean it's any good though. How do you guys do it ? The 13 pin socket has 7 for trailer lights, 5 for trailer power and earths which is 1 permanent 12v. for battery charging on a volt sensing relay which drops out when engine off. 1 ignition switched for fridge in a euro trailer ( I doubt I would use this as American fridge freezer would take a lot more power than euro stuff) 2 earths and a feed to turn off tow vehicle fog lights when connected to trailer. And 1 for trailer brakes. Lights are easy. Batt charging is easy but what about the other switched fridge feed, do you guys power the fridge or not when travelling ??

I'm a little cautious on electrics with my truck as reading the 2nd gen pages it all looks as reliable as a chocolate fireguard so I need to wire the truck for the 5er Way to do it here is a Euro 13 pin socket which has trailer lighting and power, I will be using a split charge relay and looking at a kit that senses when engine is running to open the contacts to charge the trailer battery, I think I'm going to take that feed off of the 195amp resettable alternator breaker I fitted to the truck, I have found a 40 amp auto resettable heat switch for the trailer supply, right now I think I'm only bothered about charging the trailer battery for the break away brakes and wouldn't have anything like fridges running, it is a piss ant dodge ram so I'd want to be easy on the electrical system...... ?????? any other thoughts

That looks to be a list of parts I could do with, I doubt I could jump on a trans done then shipped as the damn shipping and customs would be huge also the core charge is a killer but the parts I could do

I did actually fit my hitch and recorded the game as the run up started at 7.30am, I do like a beer but 7.30am is a tad early even for me, 20 or 30 years ago no problem but nowadays time is a bit more valueable so instead of wasting the whole day I just wasted the later part. and wasted I am it was good to see an English side prove that the All Blacks are only human after all, they hadn't lost in a world cup match since 2007 And also to be fair..... it's good to see you guys actually heard the outcome now it depends on tomorrows game between Wales and South Africa to see if it's a all Northern Hemisphere final or North and South for next saturday On a less important note my hitch is fitted but I do have rust that was lurking behind the wheel spats /extensions, rockauto do keystone or sherman and luckily the rust isn't higher than the extension line so all good and easy to do and it rained big time all day and truck just doesn't fit into workshop so while I was out of the rain I still got soaked as it was running off of the cab and tool box onto the bed and then on the floor

mines an inline filter but much bigger than the supplied small thing. I'd say complete the fuel system work or you WILL be stranded and out of pocket for a good chunk, just take a read on this forum for "VP's died" then if the rest isn't right take a look at "ECU died", "PCM died" there is the most posts or questions on this whole gen2 forum....... and yes I may be a tad cautious as I'm well over 3k miles from a good source of parts You say you get 6psi babying it to stay in od, check pressure nailed pulling a grade in od locked and I'll say it's going to be nothing I really baby mine at 15 to 20 my pump is a drp fass, if I change it it will be an assasin for sure

I have the same fuel lift pump or transfer pump whichever you want to call it, I fitted a Caterpillar fuel filter head and filter off of a C9 as PO just didn't use one, luckily It didn't do too many miles like this, I then fitted a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and saw maybe 5psi pulling hard in lockup 3rd or OD and to be fair I had noticed a hiccup sometimes when pulling so I took another look at the lines and PO had used a pre pump filter similar to a cheapo gas filter that fitted the stock lines, it was tiny, I fitted a Caterpillar prefilter, same fitment idea but bigger, I did have to use a larger line from the stock steel line as I just couldn't get the original rubber one over the cat prefilter, my FP now doesn't drop below 15psi and at idle is 20psi and I still have to relocate FP and do bigger lines and DS I would say your FP is too low and fit the relocation kit and bigger lines sooner rather than later, I would say that anything that retards injection timing is going to increase EGT's as it then doesn't fully burn in the cylinder but carries on in the exhaust manifold I would sort the fuel pressure first then see whats going on

Got up there around 12.30pm, placed the hitch in the bed and sort of lowered the trailer onto/into it to check clearances Trailer is quite a way from the back of the truck so thats all good, had maybe 4" clearance from the top of the tailgate to the underside of the pin box extension sides and I have 1 higher hole for the 5th to go up so I'll have maybe 5" or so. Got to wire in a euro 13 pin plug which is a pain and I specifically didn't go that route with my TT but I'll have to with this one I'm sure It also needs a 12v supply to it on a split charge relay so while the hitch might take me 1/2 a day to fit the electrics I can see will take longer Weight is on the truck in the 2 pictures and it just about levels it out, it does look rear down slightly but the drivers wheel is on a curb which has slightly altered the passenger wheel well gap

I'm pretty sure it's had a pin box extension specifically for euro trucks, this is why I'm picking the hitch up so I can mock it up underneath the 5th, so If I need a slider I can sort it out once as I hate doing things twice will have to get pics today

I now have the next 4 days off work, thurs,fri,sat,sunday Tomorrow I'm picking the new hitch up and mocking it under the trailer, coming home to fit it friday, made 4 large brackets to bolt it to the bed/frame. Hopefully going to collect 5th wheel saturday if everything goes well, then again I might be staying home saturday as England play New Zealand at 7.30am our time with probably 8.00 to 8.30 kickoff, this will be an epic game of rugby and is augueably the real final, I doubt I'll be able to drive 400 miles without finding out the final score so saturday might need to be cancelled, might need to be a 7.30am beer start ..... if England lose... coffee by 10.am saturday, if England win coffee by 10.am Sunday with headache tablets