2500ctd

Instead of another thread, adding to this one.For those that have done this mods many moons ago, how is it holding up? Hoses, pvc? Would the black pvc work? Radiator is out, doing a cooling system flush and degreasing the rad. Didnt do the mod the first time since my truck is 2wd. Pulled the rad out to clean the bugs out of the front and noticed that the back of the rad is getting gummed up again. Guess its time to do this and wanted some longterm feed back.

Exactly. Mine look fine, but a "while I was there...." Might leave em and save up for the silicone hoses. Had an old cop car and the silicone hoses on that looked brand new when cleaned up.

Got my rad out and flushing the system and a new thermo. The hoses dont look to be bad but since I there....... What is a good brand of hoses? I dont like autozone anything. So far Napa has been the better place but they are $$ in my town, but will go there for quailty if needed. Does anyone make silicone hoses for our trucks? --- Update to the previous post... Well found silicone hose kits....Umm yea gonna wait on those. lol http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/accessories/dodge_cummins_silicone_hoses.html http://www.mishimoto.com/dodge-truck-silicone-hoses.html http://www.mrbobsdistributing.com/dodge.htm So what brand in a normal hose? Goodyear? gates? ???

OK another relayh site. Just to help make sure the right pins are being read. Cant measure mine but trying to help. http://www.accessconnect.com/car_relays.htm

There might be another pin directly in the center. That one is 87A NC contacts

Is the he351cw non vgt? I need to find 2 of them. The non vgt ones.

And to add. the HY's came on autos. the HX on manual trucks. Cant remember the HX but the HY is a 9cm2 exh housing.

Nice avatar. Getting pumped for the twins eh?

Definately get a FSM and read it. It will help. I have one for all my vehicles. Maybe cummins might even have a engine guide? i thoughT I saw a link to one posted on DTR, but that was a while ago

Which is why I got mine as one of my first upgrades. It really made my truck act like a gas engine off the line. Almost instant throttle response. However I started with an HY. so I basically had boost at idle.

Crazy carls is a little more then I found but has the size I want. Maybe only ~$75ish more worth it to get the turbo I want and that will work. Spending that much money I dont want to "have to live with it"

Pull the cam....and then there is no use to putting used parts back in. Had a friend drop a little washer into his VW rabbit engine couldnt find it. He got pissed and started it up and rev the crap out of it. We could hear it dancing in the intake. He took it for a drive on the interstate. When he came back, no more noise. I wonder where that washer ended up. I hate it when you drop something and it doesnt hit the ground.

what about disconeecting the grid heaters? Maybe they are engaging randomly Which would point to bigger things

3000rpm free rev in neutral? Needs to have a load on it. Find an on ramp for the hi-way. I do lots of testing there. What is the volt meter say? Wonder if a bad heater grid circuit is causing the ecm to kick up the idle due to excessive load from a shorted grid circuit.

Anymore info on when this happens? Can you get it to repeat this on demand? Just an fyi and might not relate to you but only thing I have heard about rpms going up on there own. This is from Blue Chip Diesel

:iagree:Try the revo settings. I run lvl3 with timing at max, However dont run it that way when towing, duration, IIRC -2 from max setting. and tm on 2

Makes me wonder if I can swap that part into it? I have an idea of making ssome gauges and can get a manual cluster.I was thinking of that pic. At least that you had one of a 1/4 tank of fuel and couldn't remember if I saw the gear indicators or not

Anyone have pics of a manual cluster? Does it still have the prnd21 in the lower right?

PICS! I am going to build my own, but always like build thread and pics. Where you getting the kit? I still searching for a cheap s475. Good luck!

I suppose you could change the filter, flush it out then change the filter again. I need to do mine as well. And since its been a while, I might do it this way. clean filter for flush, flush the fluid and change the filter again that might have caught the stirred up dirt.

Dam, I would perfer the vinyl flooring. I am thinking of replacing my carpet with vinyl. They also have molded carpet as well, so not sure on which one yet. Why are you going with carpet? auto-interior

Would a gas cluster work in our trucks? Aside from the tach. Now with that, would the tach read actual rpm? Or is it programmed in the PCM? Being the tach is Can controlled. --- Update to the previous post... Well after some more research and this pic: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/images/general/ccd/CCD-Network-Wiring.jpg It seems that the cluster would have its own decoder ring so a tach should show actual engine rpm.....i hope.

With yuor symptoms it does seem electrical. Mine only really did it after bigger injectors. After the tranny I noticed a drop in rpm when putting it is gear after a cold start. Never thought much of it since it never stalled. This was like 4 yrs or so ago. The stalling only happen after the addition of bigger injectors. After a cold start the electrical system would be at a bigger load. Batteries drop (due to iod), grid heaters cycling. So after starting the alt is playing catchup. I wouldnt put a internally reg alt on. I perfer a remote voltage sensing system with the volt reg taking a volt reading from where everything gets its power. Granted the stock system doesnt do this. For an explanation: Remote volt sensing Couldnt Cummins give a little more insight on how the vp acts? We need an inside contact to put a stalling truck on a scanner and datalog the parameters during this event. Now my truck has been starting the OD lock unlock so I have been keeping the rpms above the problem area. Cant remember if it started along with the stalling. That would also reinforce a noise/interference/electrical issue. I wonder if when the truck is first started some inputs are ignored until a set amount of time after idle speed is reached. What about hotwiring the vp44 to run then trying to see if it stalls when put in gear. Hot wiring it would, I believe, bypass all the inputs from the truck. Maybe try this with and without a battery charger on it? random thought. On gas engines, increasing the timing will raise the rpm. Get a medium ground at the desired idle rpm. On the timing table below the target rpm, increase the timing. It helps the engine recover from loads put on the engine. The comptuer adding timing is quicker then the idle air valve having to move to increase air flow. I also play with megasquirt on gas engines.

Yes. The cigar lighter doesn't do a good job powering accessories.

I picked up another 12V power outlet in the yard and want to replace my cig lighter with it since I dont smoke. I cut the panel upto get the other one out. How do you remove the lighter without destroying the panel? FSM says external snap ring pliers put I cant find any that work. In the FSM it looks like the pins on the pliers point away from ech other. Never seen a set like this.