mr.mindless

Oh, forgot some important onesDetail interior, new driver seat cushion, wet okle covers. Gorilla juice in the G56 to hopefully quiet it down a bit and keep it happy for another few miles. And maybe some extra lighting though I'm not unhappy with the late 3rd gen non-sport lights.

Well now I've got a list for the new truck, so it really DOESN'T end after all. Radio and HVAC instrument lights are out, trio of DTCs to wrangle (P040B (egr temp sens circ 1 underperformance), P1506 (crankcase depression regulator valve performance), P2267 (WIF sens circ high)), wiper blades, washer fluid idiot light non-op, fix cruise, install new rubber, broken px mirror glass, and a few other things...

[ATTACH]5188[/ATTACH]17.3mpg over the first 120 miles according to the overhead. The 2500 is a shell, its 5.9CR was fed some gasoline by a dealer salesman and was unhappy about it. Buddy of mine bought it, sold motor trans and case out of it, it's getting a 12v swap to run veggie like the rest of his fleet.

Flying down to grab this sucker tomorrow :hyper:Hope I can sleep! I've got an EARLY flight so I hope so.Edited the first post to fix the broken pic too.

After my crash, I replaced the fogs on my 2nd gen with the late 2nd gen clear lens free-form reflector fogs and they made a noticeable difference. Much better than the stock 97 era fluted lens lights.the 3rd gen I'm getting has no factory fogs. I'm going to wait and see what sort of light the factory headlights put out before I go wild, but with the way that '07 bumper is, I'm most likely going to put a 24-36" LED light bar in that large open space. I'm only 5'7" so I always use the holes in the bumper for steps, that wouldn't leave much room with the way the 2nd gen bumper is laid out so I didn't go down that route on the '97.

You don't mistake death wobble for anything else. once you've had it you KNOW it and have NO doubt.This sounds rotational in nature and not like anything to do with steering or suspension components.How's your rear driveline? Be sure to check it with the trans in neutral with the brake set or wheels chocked - load on the driveline from holding the truck will mask any play.Reading what you've done I was surprised to read that you didn't throw a ujoint cap, and then surprised again when the shaft with a sloppy slip wasn't the cause. Is there any slop in the axle yoke? Pinion bearings will almost always fail first unless something actually breaks in the diff. Does your truck have CAD? If so, throw the case into 4x4H to lock the CAD and see if there's any change. If it's diff-based, it should change.Just throwing a couple ideas out there. I'd be going over all rotating parts with a fine tooth comb. Does the frequency feel like road speed or driveline speed? With the 'rumble strip' comment I'd think driveline. I hope you find a bad joint in the rear shaft and that's all it is.

I'm gonna have a really hard time adjusting to a G56...

If you successfully float it's fine. If you "grind" you're wearing synchros heavily.

I towed a friend's 5.9 CR from a #4 line failure, he'd never pulled injectors. High milage truck... he had the clamp come loose on him one time after replacing the line. He bought a set of spares to keep in the truck just in case.I haven't heard if this is an issue on the 6.7. do they use the same lines? With the same bore spacing and injection pump I'd guess they could use the same complete fuel system, but I'm new to common rail so I don't know.

dimensioning to the top of the hole is pretty odd. is that how the spec is listed, or just how you chose to do it? Generally, practice is to dimension to mounting surfaces for flats, and to centers of holes.

I'm sorry, I had the impression you were in that field, I was hoping for your opinion. Agreed that real tests are far more valuable than stats on new out of the bottle oil alone.

So what's your suggestion, then?

I don't know what New Venture's max operating spec is, but Eaton's is 250˚ and I would hit 240˚ all the time in hot summer weather towing heavy with my 13sp. The double OD really built heat.It's going to be interesting to compare G56 temperatures. I bet it'll cool down a lot faster when I stop...

oh, that's great news. I didn't expect a manual transmission to have a temp probe from the factory. I know my buddy's '02 NV5600 needed a cover drilled & tapped.

Anyone have pictures of the third gen bumper mounting? I'll be flat towing a 3rd gen with no motor/trans in it back north when I pick up my '07 in 2 weeks.I have a friend with a third gen that I'm hoping I have time to make some brackets based off of but want to take a look at something ahead of time if I can.

I was just going to ask how it was to get the motor out of a 3rd gen. It was a serious pain in my '97 - and when reinstalling I did the oil pan and pickup after it was halfway in the truck, I don't think the taller head of the 24v would have let it fit in the hole at all otherwise. I definitely did some sheetmetal adjustment on the front edge of the cowl.

35k and no oil or filter change??

I wouldn't load those up too much without a decent backing plate, but that's not a bad idea otherwise.

my bracket failed roadside. I hooked a tiny bungee cord from the shutdown arm over the brake res to something to pull up on it at all times. I strung a bunch of zip ties together on the other end of the arm to pull up on it to kill fuel. I was going to change it out for a choke cable but didn't get around to picking one up. I'm pretty sure hard starting was a side effect, I think some fuel drained back out of the pump since it was in "run" all the time when shut down. But it got me back on the road at full power around midnight in Ohio once. - - - Updated - - - the best permanent fix is a temporary solution!

you might need a small bungee cord and a string of zip ties for shutdown like I've been rocking for near a year!

seems an unlikely coincidence. You sure you're getting power on the small wire whenever the key is on?with the key on, if you lift it, it should stay up. Unplug and replug the thing a couple times if it's being flakey, make sure it's making good contact.

It was worth close to 15% on my '97 when I did the Ford outers and could unlock the hubs.

Fresh coat of Rustolium Hammered on the wheels and new 245/70r19.5s all around.Just bought an Edge Insight with pretty much all the extras except backup camera. EGT probe, extra pressure sensor for post-filter/ pre-CP3, and extra temp sensor for the trans or rearend. Not sure which I'll tap yet. Rear was just rebuilt, trans may be original...Under the flatbed it'll get some TSC underbody toolboxesI think it needs mudflaps.Will the stock pickup fuel tank fit a Cab & Chassis truck? I was thinking about dual tank possibilities with that trusty Ford valve setup since I don't think I'm going to move my 105 gal transfer tank to the new rig.

Lift radiator cap remove '97 truck install '07 truck lower radiator cap. - - - Updated - - - Trust me, you eventually get tired of it. Don't curse your luck too much. Either that, or trade me for my 97. It's never-*******-ending! haha

DIY with Herculiner, or the Duplicolor rattle can stuff.The latter is what my buddy Smike did on the bottom of his patriot blue over silver second gen. It looks WAY better dark blue over black. Hides the rust that starts to poke through yearly much better too.