fire176969

Not bad for 91,000 miles. 3 transmissions, 4 steering boxes and needing a fourth, 2 broken leaves in the left rear spring, 2 sets of bushings in the front link arms, the 3 trackbars, and 2 front driveshafts. On a lighter note I do have just under 43,000 miles on the tires listed in my sig.

I'm chiming in a little late here but after seeing a couple 53 blocks cracked in Dodges, one of which came out of a fedex truck that had over 300,000 miles on it, I have come to the conclusion that it is actually the location of the engine mounts that causes the blocks to crack. The fedex trucks and almost every other medium duty truck that uses the 5.9 has mounts on the flywheel housing or bellhousing and on the very front of the engine. Dodge uses side engine mounts, which combined with a thinner than should be casting and power adding devices causes the side of the block to flex to much and eventually crack. Since there were some 53's made that weren't too thin they are able to handle the flex from the engine mounts loction. This is only my opinion on the reason that I came up with from the few I have seen, wish I had the correct equipment and the engines to test my theory.

Traack bar is destroyed again, 3rd one in 8 months. Anyone know of a 3rd gen track bar kit that will work with a 5 inch lift? All I can find are for "up to a 3 inch lift"

Those numbers do seem kinda low. They are good readings showing the cylinders are even, but do seem low. I just tried looking the specifications up from Cummins, however they don't have a compression test shown. It would be a good idea to check the crankcase pressure, that will give you an idea of how well the rings are sealing. I know thats the point of the compression test, however the crankcase pressure gives you an idea with the engine running. The easiest way I can think of to check your cam timing would be to remove the breather from the front of the engine. Line up the mark on the vp44 gear with the front cover and check the valves. I know you have to remove the valve cover but it beats pulling the front cover.

I keep a piece of 1/4 inch plate steel, about 1 square foot in my truck as a base for the jack. Works to keep them from sinking in gravel or dirt. Even really hot asphalt. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

My factory jack doesn't go high enough, lol. I have used a hi-lift jack on the hitch to lift the rear off the ground before also.Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I lock mine in 4wd and jack the rear up by the diff. Jackstands can go anywhere under the axle tube as long as they contact safely.

I definitely agree with you. The really fun ones are the 18 speed transmissions and 2-speed rear axles. The old R model Macks with the twin stick transmissions were also fun to drive. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Even using an autoshift might not be helpful. I keep hearing about a proposed law that if you take a CDL test in an autoshift you are limited to driving only an autoshift. - - - Updated - - - You also need to be aware of what type of clutch brake there is installed. There is a one piece design and a two piece design. If you hit the clutch brake while shifting gears going down the road with a two piece design you can very easily snap off the bolts/roll pins used to hold the halves together, then you have no clutch brake. If this happens there is also the risk of taking some chunks out of the input shaft. Have had to replace quite a few input shafts in fuller transmissions from a two piece clutch brake being used incorrectly. DO NOT trust the clutch brake to hold the truck in any situation, there is very little braking surface and it was NEVER intended for that purpose.

I also get the same fluctuation.

Found a place offering swap kits for the nv4500. Might be worth a shot to call about other trans options. http://www.balsleyautosales.com/

So using the jumper wire instead of the relay with a resistor in the ground wire must be what allows for lockup in second gear. I might have to change mine, second gear lockup could be very useful at times Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Have you checked the ground wires under the driverside headlight? I haven't seen any of them cause your issues but there are a lot of wires grounded at the same point and had one truck doing some really weird things and thats where the problem ended up being.

When I installed my lock-up switch I wired a relay into it and used a lighted switch to help keep from forgetting to turn it off when coming to a stop. I also had to install the resistor in the ground wire to keep from getting the code for the lockup relay.

I have found the lower passenger side boot with a hole rubbed into it by the inner fender on 3 different trucks now, mine included. Couldn't hear any leaks driving and didn't really notice any significant power loss unless I was towing. I am really interested in what you find, I've been trying to decide on a turbo upgrade to get rid of the hy on my truck but can't seem to make up my mind. I am seeing 4-6 psi at 55MPH. When I keep it floored, even on level ground, I can peg my EGT gauge (1500 degrees) and hit 42-45 psi of boost pressure.

I didn't see where you tried this, if you have I missed it, but try unplugging your MAP sensor completely and driving it. It will throw a code, but it should also put the truck into a field default setting for the reading. If the performance levels out and doesn't go up and down like you said previously I would say you have a bad sensor. The only other way I can see would be with a livedata device like Mike mentioned. I have had similar symptoms with my truck and a friend of mine also had the same symptoms and both of our trucks ended up having a bad sensor.

Yeah, they will cause a pressure drop and it is amplified when there is not enough volume of fuel getting to the vpSent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I think that would keep the pressures up with smaller injectors. With the pressure differences you have it sounds like you don't have enough fuel flow (weak pump, too small of a supply line, dirty fuel filter, low fuel flow rate on the pump) note than an actual pressure issue. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

That's low. Anything below 10 is causing damage to the vp44 and below 14 will cause the overflow valve to close and could cause the ecm to overheat on the vpSent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Another added benefit to using the valve. My gauge line developed a leak and its been way to cold to do anything with it outside, so i just shut the valve off and waiting for a warmer day. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Hot line is excessive pressure. Excessive flow would actually keep the line relatively cool. When my brakes apply themselves i can grab the line from the pump to the booster and burn my hand Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I have no doubt about that. Lol Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Not the engine, the rest of the truck, lolSent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I would wait, 22 shouldn't hurt anything and it is likely to come down a little. Mine did after a few daysSent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2