Bullet

Shocking the bolts is a great way to do it. I had to remove the dampener bolts when I installed the fuel boss. I used a breaker bar and a 5lb mini sledge to smack it with. It's best to maneuver (by turning the alternator nut backwards, to the left) the bolt you want to remove to the 12-2 o'clock position when looking at the dampener so that when you smack em it has less of a chance to turn the dampener. They all broke loose pretty easily using this method. To put them back on to torque spec (92 lbs) I put a breaker bar with socket and long cheater pipe over the alternator pulley nut to hold by itself and then slid under to torque them up. The alternator will hold the belt just fine in that direction...it slips going the other direction.

18 is fine...14-20 psi is the ideal range to always stay within to keep the vp44 happy.

Hahaha...that's good stuff Dave. Outside of the cities in Texas you don't even need a permit to build a house...just build away. Thanks for the compliment and the laugh! Tell me more about the funky timing and the Smarty...so far it has been trouble free. It is an extremely powerful stack with the TST. Here's a few more pics of the Viper...my testosterone shot up a 100 points after I drove it home...? I learned that sex appeal can be purchased if you weren't born with it...?

That's a very small difference that could be attributed to alot of different things...fuel filter getting a little dirty, air conditioning on, fuel in the tank is cooler, air in your fuel pressure gauge line, trash in your feed line, etc. The amount of 2 stroke oil added is very minimal and not enough to change the viscosity of the fuel. I wouldn't worry too much about half a pound. 2 lbs would make me start questioning things however.

Lol...thank you sir. Happy to be here. I retired it from towing/hauling so it's just for play now. It's been a great truck and lots of fun to mod.

That was easy...I had so much trouble with the avatar but simple here. Thanks for the help! These pics cover the shortbed conversion... Here it is after the big lift, wheels and tires. The last pic is my other Dodge. It has the least horsepower of the two...lol!

I sure do...just don't have any luck posting them on here. Can you give some pointers on how to do that?

Hello everyone...this forum is great! Lots of good info and very diesel intelligent people on here. I have done a lot of mods to my regular cab 2nd gen 4x4...my craziest mod was a shortbed conversion. I bought a half ton donor truck and cut both trucks in half. Moved to back of the half ton over to mine and welded her up. I also used the half ton rear springs...had to cut off and weld new perches onto my axle to accept the 2.5" wide half ton springs. Also used the half ton gas tank converted over to diesel. Cut my driveshaft down along with all brake lines and fuel lines...and supported the frame welds with a 3/8" diamond shaped plate welded across both halves. Took me 2 weeks to complete but it came out perfect. Also installed long control arms up front with 8" lift coil springs. Then body lifted it 3" which makes it very easy to work on with the extra space between the valve cover and the firewall. It also has twin turbos 62 over 75, a Smarty, a TST PM3 with comp software, a fully built Goerend auto with billet input & intermediate shafts & a triple disc torque converter, headstuds, full gauges, a fuel boss pump, and a 5" stainless exhaust. I have done all the work myself with the help of forums like this. Very happy to be here!

That does sound very odd. Even ungreased ball joints should be able to make it past 12k. I replaced my originals at 200k with some greasable XRF ball joints with a million mile warranty. Hopefully I never have to touch them again.

Hahaha...I wish!

Well you owe me one for sure. This forum is much better than the others I've sampled. Glad I found this place...lots of good info on here and some pretty smart dudes! I'll be seeing you around on the forum Mr Ripley...?

Hahaha...that's good stuff! I won't rib you anymore about it but I can't speak for the others. But if I do get a fuel leak I'll be looking for you! ??

If there is one guy I would trust to help me fix a fuel leak it would definitely be a guy named 'dripley'... I'm sorry dripley...I couldn't resist. All kidding aside...very good info on your posts.

I also would replace it while I was in there. As far as what a leak would look like you'll probably see an oily residue at the leak spot. Usually a leak occurs at a connection or a weld...but it is possible to have a pinhole in the core itself. You might accidentally find that you fixed the leak by replacing it...hopefully.

I'm not sure you can get there with the HO pump...or the 66. But you are gonna need some grande injectors and an expensive clutch. Shot of nitrous would help the 66 if you can get enough fuel in it.

I agree about DAP. I have their 150hp sticks and they've been great. I just ordered a 5" stainless exhaust from them that came in today. It came with a downpipe that I couldn't use because I have twins on the truck. I asked Lenny if he could keep the downpipe and discount the kit. He told me that he couldn't do that cuz it was part of the product...but he still worked with me on the price regardless. A few days went by and Lenny calls me and says a guy called DAP looking for just a stainless downpipe and he was going to give him my info so that I could sell it to him and save even more money. Top notch customer service! Two thumbs up for Lenny and DAP!