Bullet

27lbs...Cummins spec on the rocker bolt. 18lbs on the adjustment nut. Those are ft. lbs.

Nothing different for modified engines, .10 and .20 are good. Those measurements are the lower third of the Cummins spec ranges .006-.021 intake and .015-.034 exhaust. I have always set at .10 and .20 no matter what stage of mod my truck was. I think the 6.7 is different on the exhaust side at .026...probably because they run hotter than ours.

Before I got my twins I had a bhaf that was high flow/reusable/washable material and wire meshed. I still have it...got it off ebay for about $50. Worked great just won't fit anymore.

Mopar/Cummins or Wix oil filter, Rotella T5 oil, air filter is high flow reusable that came with twins, fuel filter is Wix stock canister...205k miles at highly enriched hp levels.

I follow what you are saying and you definitely have more experience than I do being a long time diesel mechanic. I personally have only had 1 episode where my fuel filter was so restricted that it made my truck hiccup under acceleration. It was also the dirtiest looking (darkest) filter I have ever extracted from the truck. Since then I have never had one anywhere near as dirty and also have never had that hiccup symptom again. So you can see how, based on my experience, I would link a dark filter to a restrictive one. I appreciate your info! I'm always looking to learn what I don't know.

I run 1.5" spacers all around and have had no issues. Actually did it for safety reasons. Since lifting it a foot my center of gravity went up as well. To compensate I increased my width by 3 inches to lower it back down some.

Lookin good! I've got plenty of bodywork that need done after you're finished. I pay by the six pack...

I'm wondering how you got 35" 20x12's on a 2wd without ripping the fenders and bumper off of it? On a more serious note...your 2 options are to go to a smaller tire like Mike suggested or upgrade to 600hp like I chose to do. Either option will make the problem go away. Smaller tires would be about $10k cheaper than the other option.

The easiest one(s) to get to...2&3 or 2&4. Crack them open 1 turn and spin motor over until fuel is coming out. Then retighten and spin over til it cranks. You can give it a little gas after it stumbles a few times to keep it running. Let it idle for a few minutes and you should be good.

I hear ya...only reason I remembered is because I cut myself on the exposed studs while installing the twins. Memory tied to injury.

They are plastic thread on fasteners actually...

I wouldn't worry about it...like you said the oil filter will do its job. I wouldn't change the oil earlier but you could change the oil filter after 250 miles or so to give you some peace of mind.

Me too...ripped all that stuff out a long time ago. My best advice would be to do the same.

I also had a similar experience but mine ended in a way that was obvious what the problem was. I could hear and feel an occasional screech and shake. Then one day a really loud screech and then sounded like the Tasmanian devil himself was underneath the hood doing his thing. I shut the truck off and popped the hood...the fan was sitting on the mighty Cummins, the belt was in multiple pieces, the shroud was chewed to hell, the radiator was leaking substantially and the underside of the hood looked like a bear got ahold of it. Turns out there's a large $150 bearing on the fan shaft that locked up, snapped the shaft and sent the fan for a crazy ride. I was lucky to have only the damage that I had.

I have rebuilt the turbo on my old 6.5 chevy diesel a while back. Nothing about it was over complicated. Just always be careful of the exposed inducer/exducer fins. The rest you will find easy enough.

I can see why you would say that...I would think the pores of the paper would deform after spending so much time submerged and changing the filtering ability. And that could only be seen under a microscope. However I have trouble seeing how the discoloration of the media has nothing to do with how dirty it is. I would have to disagree with that part.

I went NAPA greasables for u joints on axle and driveshafts, XRF greasables for ball joints and switched to the freespin kit where the wheel bearings are repackable and inexpensively replaceable so can't help much there.

I go about 20k between. Sometimes they are cleaner looking and sometimes they are a little dirtier. But they are cheap enough to do it every 20k so it gets done. They are a heck of a lot cheaper than a Vp44...that's for certain.

Pretty sweet lookin...and way better than origs! Well done!

Sure it will work but there certainly are better options out there for turbos. Towing with it will not be fun. If you don't tow with it you'll probably be disappointed in the spool up for the size it is. You'll smoke up the road a good bit before it lights. I don't know your financial situation but I would only run it if it were given to me and didn't have any other options currently. Otherwise I'm buying a 62/68/12 and getting the best of both worlds...spool up and power.

Just do what I do when it comes to having to drop a dime or two on it. I just have a looksee at new and used truck prices and then calculate how much more I would have to spend to make it run and look like mine and then break that down into payments for X amount of years and then make the obvious decision...new door hinges! ?

Still not that bad. The inside bolts can be reached by removing the kick panel and the use of the proper tooling for the upper. Then unbolt the door from the hinges and secure with assistant/stand (hardest part)...then outside bolts are easily accessible.

Yeah I've heard those suck too. It's no wonder why I love the Cummins so much.

Well said Sir...100% agree!

I have had much better luck with mechanical parts than with electrical parts from the parts houses. Had a BMW X5 previously that was a terrible vehicle from the start...required constant repair in and out of warranty. Went to the parts houses whenever I could. Went through 2 parts house starters and 3 alternators between 40k-60k miles. The replacement parts house axle half shaft assemblies were good and the ac compressor did fine. It's funny how most look at a BMW, Mercedes, or Audi as a top tier vehicle whereas my first and only thought is what a piece of ?.