Bullet

Yep...need codes. Also what fuel pump are you running, what fuel pressure are you seeing? Sounds like a VP but the codes and fuel pressure will help to be sure.

I have the DPS twins and installed them myself so I know exactly what you mean. If you are going to relocate it (several threads on this), then you will have to replumb all the lines yourself and fabricate a new way to remount it. If you remove it completely which is what I did, I simply disconnected it from all trans and coolant lines and unbolted it. For my trans lines I cut them where they branched off to go to the heat exchanger on the driver's side of the tyranny. I cut them in a way that would allow me to run straight from the trans to the front cooler and then straight back to the transmission. I used scrap cut pieces of the line I removed to help with making the new line (looks good). I connected them back with 1/2" compression unions from the hardware store. You will lose about 2-3 quarts of tranny fluid. For the coolant lines I removed them completely and ended up making my own coolant line from heater core back to the coolant supply. I cut up the old metal coolant lines and mated them to the rubber hose to make the custom line. My line runs from heater core straight over to the air conditioner dryer, straight down it to the frame rail, down the frame rail and 90 degree back to the coolant supply. The other fittings were plugged at the block and plugged at coolant supply. My line is perfect...doesn't even come close to interfering with anything turbo. If you request I can take some pics to show what I'm talking about.

An hx55 is doable but it would spool like a pig and be smoky. I think it's somewhere around 70-71mm. Some drivability will surely be lost and egt's will be warmer. Not to mention unhealthy drive pressures and warmer charge air since the efficiency range on a turbo map is much smaller for a big single charger compared to the map of compounds. You can upgrade your single to a 62 or 63 and get a little more hp than you got now with same spool up as you have now...since your hx40 is only 60mm. But any single bigger than 63 will start introducing turbo lag at rapidly growing rates. I run the same twin setup mentioned by me78569 above and he's right on with his comments on that setup. Super reliable and a very drivable 600hp+. I was not satisfied with the bigger single charger. The twins drive and spool exactly like stock. You don't even know they are in there if you don't mash the skinny pedal. It costs a little more for twins but it's worth it overall. It's hard to find anybody complaining about their twins setup. Complaints are much more abundant on big single setups.

That's pretty much my answer as well...as mentioned best mpg would be at peak torque of the mighty Cummins (1600ish). Cruising it within a couple hundred rpms of peak torque like you are doing is absolutely no problem at all. I'm auto trans, 3.55's and fairly modified but I always cruise at similar rpms as you...even a little lower. For me on 33's: 35 mph=1000-1100 rpm 50 mph=1200-1300 rpm 70 mph=1750 rpm For me on 35's: 35 mph=950-1000 rpm 50 mph=1100-1150 rpm 70 mph=1625 rpm Been doing it that way for a really long time. Oh and each hash/line on the tach is 125 rpms...a little bit goofy I agree.

Both of these are my answer too...but easier to copy someone else's work.

That is one benefit of the lockable hubs too but I have never used it so I really can't call it a benefit for me.

I agree...not really worth the expense of the kit for mpg reasons. Running big tires with offset wheels is the only really good reason to switch to the lockable hubs because of the size and serviceability of the bearings. The axle doesn't spin anymore when unlocked so some wear and tear is being avoided on u joints, axle joints, seals, ring and pinion gears and bearings. But that benefit is hard to measure.

Since I don't cad I didn't have to access the differential. The axles just slid right out of the axle tubes. The axle seals I was referring to were the outers. I imagine it would be a chore to change the inners. The Yukon kit relocates the abs sensors to bolt on to their spindle...so it is abs compatible. If you use the Warn hubs they stick out further. The Yukon hubs are fairly low profile. But yes the whole system sticks out a bit. I had to customize my aftermarket hub cover because of that. But it looks OK on the size and style of wheel that I have. Took a few pics for you...

I did the Yukon free spin kit at the same time I did the ball joints and steering upgrade...perfect timing to do it. Mine is the stronger 35 spline upgraded outers with the stock inners. I don't have the cad on my truck though so I didn't have to deal with that. Didn't have any problems with the changing the axle seals...they were easy. Also did new u joints between the axle halves while they were apart. The bearings are pretty heavy duty. I would imagine that they are stronger than the unit bearings.

Dang man...it's a good thing you're right handed! Cuz you've been giving that left arm all kinds of hell. You gotta be careful out there bro...

Ouch! Note to self...no heating of press fit parts!

That method is exactly how I did mine...popped em off fairly easily. That tells you how strong that power steering is.

Exactly!

Much more affordable and fulfilling to do it all yourself if you can. You got plenty of support from here. If I would have paid labor to do everything I've done to my truck I could have bought another whole truck.

Worn out ball joints will give you the 'knock' over a bump. You can check them by putting the axle on jackstands and see if you have any play in the wheel/hub assembly.

That's a pretty small pecker you got there dripley. What is that 3-4 inches...tops?

When I rebuilt my entire suspension (front and back) I attached a string to the rear axle and ran it around the back middle of the rear tire and completely across the middle front tire. Then looked at where the string was touching or not. Then made adjustments til I got it the same on both sides. This method allowed me to get the track bar and toe in adjusted perfectly. My toe in is as close to 0 degrees as I could get it. You want to make sure the string is touching both sides of the front tire equally while being equidistant on each side of the front of the rear tire. You have to make sure your steering wheel is turned to where your front tires are both pointing as straight as possible before adjusting. And roll the truck backwards and forwards after each adjustment.

I probably wouldn't put it on my truck...it's cool looking but just not my thing. But if I were going to put it on my truck and were leary about putting holes in the truck I'd say top of the toolbox looking backwards would be a good spot. Two holes in the toolbox lid is no big deal...but I would use silicone or rubber washers to keep the rain out.

Hahaha...I've been there. I do everything to my truck myself too and there have been many times when I have felt dumb...sometimes even worse. But it always works out...?

Very nice job Cronus! I will be doing the same thing and build a custom dash while I'm at it. Your pics and commentary are a huge help. Good looking truck you got there...inside and out! ?

Make more sense now about how it works. The cooler part may have some merit to it by adding some fluid capacity and displacing some heat. The magnet is a good idea as well. But since it is not pressurized debris has to be 'lucky' enough to fall through the slot. Otherwise debris could circulate in the fluid for a good while before finally finding the slot. The intent is good but the execution is...'better than nothing' at best.

I agree...makes no sense. I would think that they would explain how it works in the description but I guess not explaining it is better for sales...

It's a wonderful product! I bought some muffler bearings from the same seller and they work great too! ?

YouTube does have some pretty good stuff about it...I've been study alot custom cars too since they do some pretty cool things. I'll definitely share all the trials and tribulations...and I'll need the luck too. ?

Will do...I'll probably do a large thread about it with pics and all. Thanks for the tip on it...I'll take any others that you have on it. I have been studying custom dashboards in other vehicles and doing alot of brainstorming about framing and materials. It should be a fun project...lots of work too.