Bullet

It's a good thing you don't have a chevy from those days. I became a professional at changing out the pins and bushings on those...I had to! Any bodyshop should be able to do it fairly easily...but there's no personal satisfaction in that. It is not a difficult job to do yourself but like @JAG1 said a capable assistant comes in very handy...and there's plenty of guidance from here.

Never seen that before...that's some pretty good fab work! Great for hunting, camping or beach. I would miss my tailgate more than a spare tire though. Pretty cool stuff though! ?

My best advice would be to call Dave Goerend since you are installing his triple disc converter. He is a nice guy and can answer any questions you have. I have his triple disc but also have his valvebody, billet shafts, billet internals, flex plate, deep pan, etc, etc, etc...which all came in a package. I didn't have the pleasure of doing surgery on the valvebody so your questions are over my head.

Gotta love the torque! I can break em loose at those speeds while pulling the boat if I grab enough throttle. A happy rear end while towing will make a fishing buddy have a similar facial expression.

Ahhh...yes! That's a look that I never get tired of seeing...the WTF look. Mustang and Camaro owners are very good at it but Powerstroke owners have it perfected.

I think it looks great on jeeps, truck type SUV's, and trucks with camper tops. Seeing it behind an uncovered truck bed is a new look for me but I like your idea. My vote would be to do it...and of course share it all with us. Trailer hub and your choice of round or square rod with some clever design is probably how I would do it too. I haven't even carried a spare tire in the last 15 years...luckily no flats. But I would probably break out the welder and copy your idea if it works out well for you...and spare up myself.

I wouldn't beat myself up about how long it took me as much as I would if it wasn't done properly. Take all the time you need the first time...9 hours is just fine. My first time was about 5+ hours while double and triple checking my movements. And anytime I pull the valve cover the valves are getting checked/adjusted too. So about 2-2.5 hours now for injectors and valves with accumulated experience.

It's a good thing I didn't read this out of context! ? I have about 11 inches up front. I guess the function of those is to keep from bottoming out the shocks and over taxing the springs. I can't recall ever encountering a bump big enough to hit them...even when I was at stock height.

This is the first time I've ever been inside of a diesel fuel tank...it's much cleaner than my garage!

It's a nicer look for sure...not a bad price either. Has pretty good reviews too. I just might have to do that mod too instead of always driving around with the KC's lit. Thanks for that info and pic! ?

I live in the mild dirty south so never an issue but I feel for you guys. Been watching the weather up there and it's been crazy cold. You guys stay warm up there...?

I broke out the test light when I was in there. Can switch the 12v constant to the key switch or 12v hot on last notch of the key switch. A key switch wiring diagram might be helpful to avoid the test light.

I believe there is a way to switch the VP but don't know the specifics. I definitely wouldn't disable the lift pump...since our VP's will start and run still but be killing itself in the process. Only thing worse than a stolen truck is a stolen truck with a dead VP. ?

I spliced into the starter solenoid switched from column. There are products in the market that do the same in other ways.

It's been my experience that VP stands for Very Prolific rather than Very Poor. They would never have gotten such a bad rep if the importance of fuel pressure was understood up front. Most learn about fuel pressure after they have kill one...or two and then blame the crappy VP. If I had not read all the horror stories and only went off my own experience I would have thought the VP is a great pump...all the while supplying lots of power when needed and driving like a stock truck while not flogging it. I have never seen what all the fuss was about.

Good deal...at least you found it and are good to go. I never once thought about the fluid but it's a good thing that you did...?

Sounds like you already know how it's gonna go...and I think I agree with you. Yeah the height to width ratio makes a big difference! Holy cow...lowest I've seen here so far this winter is 33 and even that was pretty uncomfortable. I can't imagine single digits, much less negatives. You got thicker skin than me...or some serious parka...or both!

Nice QCSB Marcus! I see you are getting plenty of snow up there...

Not at all...drives very flat and stable. The 12" wide wheels are deep and kick out the tires better than 2.5 inches on each side. Also I'm running 1.5" wheel spacers to kick the tires out even more. So at the same time it got lifted 12 inches the distance between the outsides of the tires increased about 8-9 inches.

They do not need to be loaded. On jackstands and in D, 1, 2, or R the driveshaft and wheels will turn as fast as you want them to under power of the engine. If they are not spinning in those gears while on jackstands then you have a transmission problem. UNLESS you have accidentally bumped the transfer case shifter (4x4) into neutral...then nothing would spin in any gear.

We've all done crazy stuff at the wrong time and place. That's how you learn where the line is...and how divorce works. ? PB Blaster and maybe a well placed propane torch. Rust is gonna be your main enemy. I wish you the best of luck!

Some sweet trucks on here. Got a little crazy on mine in a few ways. Shortbed conversion was probably my best use of insanity. First time I ever cut a truck in half...wasn't too hard but a ton of work.

On jackstands and in park the rear driveshaft will not spin...only in neutral. The tires will spin in opposite directions equally while it is in park but not in the same direction. But everything should spin however you want it to when in neutral.

Good stuff...thanks for posting! I'm smarter than I was 20 minutes ago. I have progressed from idiot to moron...clinically speaking. ?

Yeah I definitely didn't do the body lift to make valve cover access easier but it sure did work out that way. It has saved me hours of work when access to the valve cover innards is required. Also moves a lot of heat away from the firewall, more room to jerk the tranny and more room for the twins install. It might also be a big help when it comes time to pull the Cummins for a refresh...just can't confirm that one yet.