Bullet

Not so much because of high boost unless you are really up there...like 80+lbs. More so for higher rpms. If you want to be cautious change to 115's if you are breaking 3500 rpm regularly, otherwise definitely do it if you are breaking 4000. Not needed otherwise. Stronger springs will put more stress on the tappets, pushrods, rocker arms and cam...and valve adjustments will need to be done more often. With all that said there are many out there breaking 4000 rpms on stock 60lb springs with no issues. I also have been between 3500-4000 rpm many times and regularly push 60+psi and I am still on stock springs with no issues.

You're not alone...I had to take a Sawzall to mine too. But I went with aftermarket longarms with hiems on one end and polys on the other. They are fully adjustable so I replaced those adjustment bolts with grade 8's. Now an adjustment is loosening a couple jam nuts and spinning the control arm...super easy and highly recommended.

Congrats on the stuff you got done...that's a pretty good amount of work done already. You're in the home stretch now.

Nice Ferrari! Is that a Maranello?

I haven't heard of this issue before but definitely something to look into...thanks for the heads up on it.

Sounds just right. Yeah you'll be happy to do away with the electrics. I'm at 18 idle and 20 when I get on it a bit so pretty much the same as you. Those belts are good for 50k mile change intervals so you shouldn't have to address it again for a while. I carry an extra belt in the truck just in case but I suppose I won't ever need it.

The first 30 seconds of running did most of the priming. That pump moves so much fuel at such a low rpm that the last 30 seconds topped it off. I went straight mechanical too...much easier and saved $50. You should hit around 19 psi when you get on the gas...which is perfect.

Lol...I figured they thought it was no big deal since gunshots are heard there on somewhat of a regular basis. The whiplash actually helped me hit the deck when I heard it. I still can't believe how loud it was...

It's like an emotional roller coaster. You freak out at first thinking this is gonna be expensive and then happy when you find out everything is cool...other than the shot to the ticker you just took!

Yeah and a seat cover too...

I had to visit one of the more sketchy towns nearby today...where the majority of residents have teardrop tattoos, the property values are tanked and everybody is illegally packing. I wanted to get in and out as soon as possible so on the way out I juiced up the TST and spun up the turbos up to around 55-60PSI and was sucking up pavement at a rapid rate. Shortly thereafter BOOOOOOM...I heard and felt a hell of a percussion in the truck. It sounded like a 12 gauge was fired right outside my window...and given my location was a distinct possibility. I just knew that I was today's victim of another shooting in that town. I finally unpuckered enough to notice the tremendous smoke cloud behind me and finally figured out that I had a boost boot let go. I have heard others describe it but never experienced it first hand. It scared the crap out of me to say the least. I can't believe how loud and violent it was. Luckily no damage anywhere under the hood...maybe a little to my central nervous system is all. Anybody else ever had that happen?

A stuck open thermostat will cause it to run too cold and take forever to warm up. Looks like you might have one.

I went with both billet input and intermediate shafts on my rebuild and can confirm that they are ridiculously expensive. If I remember correctly about $600-700 each. Only reason I didn't do the output shaft is because it can be changed without removing the entire tranny...and of course I didn't feel like shelling out another $600-700.

I was wondering how it was going. Bumper looks good...will look even better after you work it. Really want to see what you do there. Looking good though! ?

I don't know anything about those kits you mentioned but the biggest weak links are the stock torque converter and valve body so I would definitely upgrade those with a proven single disc converter and a valve body or valve body kit that works well with your chosen torque converter. I can only speak from experience with Goerend parts cuz that's what I have and they have been rock solid on mine at 500-600hp. I wouldn't bother with a billet input shaft or upgraded flex plate unless you have a torque converter lockup switch and do locked shifts. I would suggest a billet accumulator cuz the stock one is plastic and that's never a good idea. Also I would consider a 3.8 front band arm kit which gives more leverage than the shorter stock arm. Lastly I would consider a deeper pan and filter spacers that holds more oil with and has a drain plug and temp sensor port if you plan to run a trans temp gauge. Raybestos clutch and steel plates and bands are what I'm running successfully as well.

With the fuel boss if you choose to go straight mechanical with no electric pump like @01cummins4ever ran his you can knock $50 off the GDP price since you won't need the Hobbs switch and a few less fittings. It's an easier install too. Of course if you get the big line kit too then it's $50 so it ends up a wash on the total price. I also ran mine straight mechanical with no electric pump anywhere on the truck. It has always performed flawlessly and fuel pressure has always been rock solid.

Lol...you're not a salesman...are you?

That's a good question...I wonder that too. Does the revo setting for timing have any affect on the even number SW's?

I think a 62/65/12 would be best for your goals. It will spool like a stock turbo and give plenty of air for towing and has room for you to grow if you decide you want more in the future.

@Me78569 I spent some time looking at your data logs...good stuff btw! Would it be fair to say that peak timing is higher on catcher level 3 than on any other level for comparative tps levels and rpm...being even higher than catcher level 1? I think I saw up to 21.xx degrees on level 3 and only 19.xx on level 1.

Jinxed myself? I completely agree with you about headstuds...that's why I have them.

I run the Smarty S03 also. Things got really crazy when I added a TST PM3 Comp into the mix. I run the Smarty only on level 1 for just cruising around...and then when it's time to rip I just flip the TST on and the fun begins. It instantly becomes an possessed beast. I haven't popped a head gasket yet and I do have headstuds.

Headstuds are kinda like insurance against a blown head gasket if you're gonna run higher boost pressures. Headstuds are needed when running boost pressures of 45-50 lbs or more. The stock headbolts are fine for stock boost levels and even slightly higher than stock but they will not clamp hard enough to hold the head down at higher boost pressures put out by a larger single or compound turbo setup. I have heard of people who have overtorqued the stock headbolts and ran up to 50lbs successfully...but that's a big roll of the dice. Changing out a head gasket is a costly, time consuming and laborious job. @dripleyknows all about the fun of head gasket replacement.

I looked at a few other brands of studs that were cheaper than ARP's...can't remember the names of them. But when I researched them myself I found several complaints of snapping while being torqued. I figured the little bit of savings wasn't worth any potential issues so I just went with the ARP 425's. Never an issue at 135 ft.lbs and up 55-60 lbs of boost.

I run diesel straight into the cab with no problems...via snubber and needle valve like Mopar1973Man says. Gauge has always read perfectly with very little if any water hammer.