Bullet

Thank you sir! It's not perfect but always trying to move in that direction...still got some work to do but it's a labor of love! My anti-theft system is merely a hidden switch that cuts power to the steering column so no start unless you find the switch. ?

This is a perfect description of me and my experience as well...even the 2002 part! But the jack*** part may be a little light...I've heard much worse from the other gender. ? These guys know their stuff so you have come to the right place!

I changed to the sport style headlights and as mentioned it was a marginal improvement. I finally added a bull bar with custom bracketry and light perches to add (3) 6.5" KC's inside of it...2 floods and one spot. I have the floods aimed down for driving and the spot will go way out there. No problems seeing now!

I'm not too much help unfortunately...I haven't had the pleasure of pulling out the motor yet. But I do have a 3" body lift and can agree that much more room has been created since. Valve cover comes off super easy...even the push rods come out with ease. So I see how raising the cab would help. Hit YouTube and watch a few videos...I always do that before I attempt something I've never done before. And most things I have done to the truck are things I've never done before...?

I just dump 2 gallons in at one time...but that's for the highly modified Yamahammer on the boat. ? In the truck I have never put a drop of anything in the tank other than diesel. The original VP is still going very strong at 205k and has been tapped for a long time...so I never saw the need to use it. I can see the reason and logic behind using it and I'm not saying that you shouldn't use it. Just saying that I haven't and have been very successful so far. It's my opinion that a rock solid lift pump (mechanical) constantly supplying never less than 15-20 lbs at any throttle setting is sufficient. Besides, I fish a lot and already buy several gallons at a time. So my 2-cycle oil budget is already blown out of the water...no pun intended.

Thanks for your reply Hag...good stuff! What you were describing is kinda what I'm looking for. Not a spool but kinda like one. I already don't drive it in wet conditions since traction is hard to be had. I'm in 4x4 if I know I'm really gonna be putting the power down. I have a good bit of experience with another car that is high horsepower and light in the rear so tail happiness doesn't bother me too much...kinda fun in a way. I loved the open diff too with the single disc and stock valvebody. Very trouble free and good road manners too. Never really drive it in inclement weather so not too worried about ice, snow or rain. Last time I changed the rear diff fluid the ring gear looked brand new with hardly any visible marks. We're somewhat similar in a lot of respects. Dyno...don't care, 1/4 mile...don't care, that feeling you get in your arse when you mash the GO and exorcize the demons...I care. Also the ability to do many exorcisms without mechanical failure...PRICELESS!

Been looking at lockers for the rear diff ever since the Goerend triple disc and accompanying full beef up to the trans. I'm open diff now, no LSD. I live in the dirty south where snow is an oddity. Looking mainly from a performance traction standpoint. The tranny grips hard and the rear is about 350 lbs lighter than it was before. It is fairly easy to break one rear tire loose without trying. Truck is not a daily driver...is only used for fun and for pulling a light boat (2k lbs). So don't care about towing manners or too much about quirky road manners. Just looking to put power through both rears to decrease slippage...and maybe a little more advantage off the line. Looking at Detroit full locker and Truetrac specifically. Been doing a lot of reading and am leaning towards the full locker over the Truetrac. I have never driven a truck with a locker in it, only LSD. Anybody have experience with mechanical style lockers in our trucks and what's it like driving them?

Isn't Denver where weed is legal? Could that have something to do with the difference in value? ?

Hopefully you can get more...good luck on your sale...?

I will definitely do that when my VP fails. I hope the VP goes before the tappet cover gasket but not by much and not anytime soon.

Nice...you're half way there. Hopefully 2nd half is just as smooth. What mileage can you expect a tappet cover gasket? I'm over 200k and my Cummins abnormally doesn't leak a drop from anywhere.

Without looking at anything blue book related and just going off of your post and single exterior pic I would say $6-7k for a fair sale. The mileage is a killer even for a Cummins.

190k is pretty good! Couldn't think of a better time to do the injectors...while the lines are out. It's pretty easy to change the injectors. Just make sure you account for all the copper washers and the rest is straight forward. Changing the VP looks straight forward as well but haven't had to do it yet. Let me know how it goes for a first timer since I'll be one too.

None at all, the heat exchanger has nothing to do with any function of the trans other than the assistance of bringing the trans fluid up to operating temp (main function) and secondarily helping to cool overheated trans fluid. About the only way I can see it affecting shifting is if the lines were reinstalled backwards from how they are supposed to be. Front line is out to trans cooler, back line is in from trans cooler.

Shame that you sold it...if I would have known of it back then your friend would have gotten outbid for the sale.? That's a cool truck.

Lol...it's a little crazy but fun as hell! For some reason I've got to have what few others have...even if I have to make it myself. I agree a Pic would be sweet. Take a break from the cold weather and come on down to photoshoot em. Of course we'll check em too. Do you know your curb weight? I'm a few lbs over 6k

Hahaha...I was thinking the same thing. I had a second truck that I cut in half that was a half ton so I used the rear springs of the 1/2 ton. So it rides extremely well. Yes 2wd launch is tough with squirrliness and hop...I need track bars. But 4x4 launch isn't bad and not too squirrely. I have a 99 Viper too and that sucker will get squirrelly on me more than the truck will. The car definitely wants to kill you. 4wd does wonders for going fast.

Awesome shortbed Cummins conversion. I built the exact same truck, color and all, except 4x4 and lifted instead of 2wd and lowered. Sweet conversion!

Well at least you figured out your problem. Your $70 stock Carter lift pump has killed your $1500 Vp44. But by the time you replace both pumps you'll be over $2k total+labor...unless you buy another Carter. But you'd just be getting back in line for another pump failure. I would recommend the fuel boss too since I have had no problems and fuel pressure is rock solid. Best of luck to you!

For those that tap the pump wire this is probably a pretty good idea. They are probably less likely to inspect for wire tap and just give you another new pump without question under warranty. Most of the time I bring back a core part and I already have my money back before they even look in the box...if they even look in the box at all.

Each hash/line is 125 rpm...

Lol...I hope I can beat you but I don't DD it anymore so miles are less frequent than before. It pulls the boat and street queens it once or twice a week while giving your average sports car owner an opportunity to embarrass themselves. Your 243k is a testament to proper fuel pressure relative to the lifespan of the VP. ?

I would also definitely take a look at your lift pump. 14 at idle seems low if you have an electric lift pump. Surely your fuel pressure is lower above idle which means your Vp44 is not being cooled or lubricated properly. Need to be no lower 14 under full throttle for proper cooling and lubrication which would put you somewhere around 20 psi at idle. I have never lost a Vp44 and still on the original from 2002...and it has been wire tapped for the majority of it's life at over 200k. I have always had a fuel pressure gauge and eventually switched to a mechanical fuel pump which is as rock solid dependable as can be. I'm at 15-16 idle and 19-20 at full go. Gaurantee yourself you will never have a lift pump issue again and you are also guaranteeing yourself a long living Vp44.

It's a lot of work to put in the twins...especially if you are fabbing yourself. So I would have the same opinion as above. Regarding piping you can order a universal kit with various bends to fab your own (lots of work) or talk to some companies that sell twin kits for a pre-engineered pipe set for your application. If your budget is tight and you don't mind all the work and your Hx40 spools that well and is a t3 wastgated 62mm and is your only option then go for it. Either a 72 or a 75 will work. 72 a slightly better towing setup and 75 for a little more fun on the street. I'm pretty sure my S475 is t4 96mm turbine on a 1.32 housing.

My current compound setup is the full DPS twin kit 62/75 and it came with all the piping that was pre-engineered to fit perfectly...and it all does with the exception of the heat exchanger on the auto trans. No problem with manual. If the hx40 spools like stock than yes. But I think it's a t4 flange which means that it wouldn't. An hx40/35 hybrid (t3) would be better than the hx40 as a smaller turbo...but there are other turbos out there that can spool like stock and pump more air than the hx40 or hx40/35 hybrid. I thought hx40 was 60mm...but not 100% sure. Like @Me78569 said the 62/75 is a tried and true setup on the VP trucks...and I concur. If I were crazy I could let my girlfriend daily drive my truck with no problem...but I'm still sane. Driving manors like a stock truck...regardless of the power available.?