War Eagle

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If I understand what you are saying: Check gauges light on; Oil pressure gauge not reading and voltage gauge not reading; That's the reason why. For example if the oil pressure gauge isn't reading you most likely need a new pressure sensor. You need to be looking at the gauge related issues for eliminating the warning light. I don't think your batterires or alternator are the reason for the check gauges light.

I believe it is EDM process. Electrical Discharge Machinin

That's sound like a major project but it allso sounds cool to have a good reference some place that can be easily accessed.I know there have been countless times when I tried to find some specific information about the trucks (i.e. towing capacities, KDP years, 53 block years, engine style (ISB or ??)etc., etc.Don't know how detailed you are planning to make the spreadsheet but it does sound like a neat idea.Thanks.

I would like to have a snow blower like that.:pant:I have a fairly long driveway and when we have a blowing snow storm I have gotten multiple 4' high drifts down the length of the drive.I have a tractor with the front [oader bucket and a rear blade but I can spend most of a day trying to open things up. I think that blower would really cut down the time and effort.Maybe someday.

I'm running the 275's and yes there was a nice power difference over the stock injectors.

I have heard someone else also suggest that when they found that my truck had the HX rather than the HY.

As I stated: my S6-PoD manual says exactly what I posted above for the torque mangament.It also says that same thing for the timing (just as you noted).I still would tell you for the PoD (version which I have) the manual says that 4=wild.There is a note under the torque info that is in the manul that states the following: IMPORTANT: with torque level 3 or above, an aftermarket clutch/AT transmission is recommended.All this tells me that 4 is the high number.Hope that helps.

On my 2000 truck with auto it came with the HX35 with 12cm exhaust housing. This was the stock set up on this truck.I understand that my truck was not unique. I think I heard that some 2000's had the HY and some had the HX but I don't know why.

Hmmm.I can see the housing color is different (silver vs dark blue/black), the compressor impeller is also different (7 vanes vs 8 vanes) and I see the lock nut on the compressor wheel is also different between the two models. The exit throat is also different between the two models.I am curious why are you asking for this input.

In my Smarty Instuction manual for the S6 PoD it says 1=stock, 2=mild, 3=moderate and 4=wild. But this is if you want to adjust this specific parameter. If you leave it set to 0 that means the program defaults to the current CaTCHER level.What I think this means is that any of the CaTCHER levels could have a their own unique Torque setting pre-programmed in, and if you want to just accept that setting then that is the default.Hope that helps.

Ya, I hope pink slips are being handed out tonight!

No, if you were talking to me that is one of the first things I saw. Said to myself, wonder what kind of looks he got around town?

Well when I updated my Smarty S6 PoD I had all kinds of trouble making the connection. I watched the how to movies on the Mads web site and follwed the step by step and still couldn't get it to work.Finally in despiration I contacted Italy and they sent me a file called "Smarty for Dummies" which had directions different than posted on their web site. It worked great. I saved the file for future reference.Dorkweed: the new updates creates a new base tune that is more linear, supposed to be more HP in all the tunes (stated as +10%) and is supposed to give more mpg. It also changed the timing map so it is different than the original tunes. Also the update makes the program UDC capable. I am now running the update but am too new at it to have conclusive data on the improvements in power and mpg but I am working at it. I have tried 3 tanks of fuel on each of the CaTcher tunes (1-5) I recently switched to the PoD tune with modified timing and default rail pressure, default torque managent, default speed limiter and default waste gate. I have set the level down to 30% and will work my way up the scale and see if there is any noticeble difference than using the CaTcher version of the program. I have a stock tranny so I am not going to maximum output of the program which is now pretty close to 200HP (as per Mads info)I eventually want to learn about UDC and try that out as well.

I'll bet you could weld an extension on one or both of those gates to close the gap and make it easier to padlock it or throw a chain around it to lock it up.

I bought my VP from Oregon Injection. Got the one with a new computer also.

Nope they are not the same.Distilled water is boiled and the process removes all the minerals, organic and inorganic matter and particulates.Water softners generally only remove the calcium and magnesium particles.

If you need to buy an oil sending unit then buy it from Geno's.When I bought one this year for my gen 2 the stealership said it was $250. I said ya, over my dead body!Bought it from Geno's and was less than $50. Shipping was a few extra bucks.

Dry weight is 2200 pounds. It is built with aluminum frame and fiberglass sides. It is 8'11" long and has a slide out and fits a short bedtruck.When loaded I am a little over 2800 pounds. My truck weight is 6450 + 2800 camper and I am about 400 pounds over the truck GVW of 8800 pounds.I run the helwig sway bar and Rancho 9000XL shocks. My truck has the camper option so it comes with overloads and I have installed the Torquelift overload bumpers.There is no squat when the camper in on the truck.

Over 40!Black balloons should be lining the drive way.One foot is on the banana peel and the other is already out the door. :wow:Hope you don't get too revved up over this. In fact it might be good if you could figure out how to avoid having them because they just remind you about getting older.:sick:Hope you have many long years ahead.

Two trucks currently in my stable.One is an '05 3500 4x4 Laramie.The other is an "00 2500 4x4 SLT.

You could also go with the HX35/40 hybrid and it will bolt right up. Use that with RV 275s and you'll have a nice kick in the pants when you need to scoot!

When the VP on my 2000 went out I had a very similar situation. The loud pop or bang and the truck just stopped running.It would still crank but it wouldn't fire. I had fuel pumping up to the VP but nothing out of the VP.It's old Murphy. I think he travels from place to place looking for an opportunity to inflict himself upon the unsuspecting.

Wow, sorry to hear about the accident. The plane looks like an early model Kitfox. I fly a Series 7 Kitfox and always cringe whan I hear about a plane going down. Did you brother build it? Hope he recovers quickly and all is well.

Could be seals are weeping. Maybe you have a worn shaft which could allow the seals to weep. If you are getting very much oil it will likely begin to coat your intercooler which will interfere with its ability to cool your charge air very efficiently.