War Eagle

Ya, that looks like it belongs there.

Is that because you boil the "hell" out of it? :lol:

In general a pump is a pump. It creates flow and pressure. It doesn't generally meter anything. What meters flow is things like valves, orifices, capillary devices, etc. Now before I have anybody calling me out on this there are lots of different kinds of pumps in the industrial, scientific and medical world and some of those pumps could in fact be looked at as metering flow (i.e. positive displacement pumps, but even these can be equipped with pressure or flow relief devices to control desired output. Injectors have tips that have multiple holes which fuel is injected through. These holes are fixed orifices and an orifice meters the amount of fuel that can pass through an injector tip and into the cylinder. Pressure and temp will affect how much of any given fuel can flow through any given orifice size. Flow will change as the temp and pressure change but the relationship between the fixed orifice size and the amount of flow for any given pressure and temp is well defined by the laws of physics. Now a pump can be fitted with things like pressure relief valves, recirculation valves etc., to control pressure and temp in a pump when the fuel flow is low (like at idle). So a larger injector can flow less fuel at idle because the output of the pump is being controlled by a signal that controls the flow and pressure (through pressure relief, bypass, recirculation etc)but when the throttle is opened then the pump signal will adjust the flow and pressure parameters of the pump and the flow and pressure output of the pump going to the injectors will increase and then when the injector sees the higher pressure the orifices at the tip will meter in the fuel to the cylinder chamber. More pressure means more fuel through the fixed orifice. Bigger injectors can over power the engine.. If you don't have enough air to burn the fuel you are metering in through the larger injectors the more smoke you will make and the engine will not run clean or cool and maybecome very erratic.

I am anxious to see if you realize a net gain in mpg after you get everything broke in and more miles on them so you have lots of meaningful data.

I can't dispute simple chemistry and physics. The cooler the temperature of the air charge the greater the O2 molecules you can get into a given volume. Pressurize that charge and keep it cold you can pack in even more. Add fuel and you make more power. Creating tons of power may not net you better mpg. I interpreted the discussion was about making power relative to intake charge temp. Now if you start messing with timing and duration for the purposes of emission then you can change how much power you make and how well your engine will run and what temp it likes it's aircharge etc. All of this will impact the power you can make as well as the mpg's you might get for a given power.

I haven't seen the You Tube video so I am not sure if there is something about it that is confusing or if the engineering/science of it is in question so I am going to jump in here and say something in an attempt to answer what I think your question is about. My challenge is to not make a long winded response here. First off I don't have any real engineering data or test data at my finger tips but when you compress air it heats up big time. Such as the compression that takes place in your cylinders. In your cylinder when you compress the charge it heats up high enough to ignite the fuel. I am guessing that temp is somewhere above 200+ of degrees. Well when your turbo compressor sends compressed air to your engine, that is heated air from the compression process of your turbo charger. I don't have specific knowledge how much heat gain takes place there but it will be less than what occurs in your cylinders, but never the less the air moving into the combustion chamber would be expected to be much higher than ambient air. Hot air contains fewer O2 molecules per given volume than does cold air so if you can cool the pressurized air to lower temps you can shove more O2 molecules into the cylinders than if you didn't cool the air. AS you know the more O2 molecules you have available the more fuel you can burn and thus the more power you can generate. So the intercoolers function is to cool the charged air so your engine can generate more power. Now I am not going to discuss the science and engineering that goes into heat transfer but let's suffice to say that without your intercooler your engine intake air would be much hotter and therefore not capable of generating the power of any intercooled engine (assuming the intercooler is sized appropriately). So there are formulas that can calculate the O2 molecules available per volume and per given pressure and per given temperature. They basically say that as the volume remains the same and the pressure goes up and the temp comes down then the O2 increases. I can't say how much of a temp increase occurs due to the air flowing through the hot intake manifold but that would occur even without your intercooler. The intercooler (by design) is placed in front of the radiator so as to avoid picking up heat from the radiator and thus limiting the possible transfer of heat out of the intercooler from the the charged air before it goes into the cyclinder. When the ambient air is hot outside and flows across the intercooler you will not get as much cooling of the compressed air going into the cylinders as you would on a cooler day but it is still better than having a turbo charged non-intercooled engine. The colder you could make your fresh air intake, would then help limit the air temp climb that occurs during the compression process and thus help limit the air temp that goes into your cylinders. In the race arena, it is not uncommon to find efforts being made to cool down the intercooler with ice or LNG so that the intake air is as cold as they can get it in an attempt to have more O2 so as to burn more fuel and make more power. Hopes this helps.

Hard to believe if this is real. Just up the temp thermostat 10 degrees and pick up 2 mpg. :think:How are you at picking lotto numbers? I could use some help. :pray:I'm still following.

X2. I like that and it could fit a lot of situations

I decided to get one for myself and just keep for insurance purposes. The Cummins dealer had them in stock. The part number is 5289447 and it cost $26.28. It comes with the new style clamp that drscott got when he had the dealer replace his #4 line.

That's interesting. IF I was to want to carry a spare #4 injector tube is this only a dealer item or are they available through any source? I suppose the new style clamp is probably only a dealer item.

Pacbrake is now offering 10% rebate on their PRXB model.I'm looking real hard right now with this offer.It is good until June 1, 2013

Not really sure how to answer your question without a long disertation but in simplistic terms, in the TD the fuel is the power maker. The more fuel that you can add and burn the more power that is created. Bigger holes and more nozzle holes allow more fuel to be injected and burned.The injection pump is delivering the fuel at high pressure and the injectors are what meters in the fuel for combustion.With larger injectors that are delivering more fuel, then more power is created without having to put your foot into the throttle so much so it is possible with some injectors to see an increase in mpg. But of course if you like the added power and play with it a lot you will likely see a redution in mpg.

These are fun guns. I have several and use them to target practice and hunt foxes and coyotes. Of course I use my 17HMR to hunt the same things but the Ar's are just fun. The idea to be able to change the uppers is just flat neat. I have one upper in 50 bmg and that one puts a whole new meaning into plinking and hunting coyotes way out there. Did I say they were just fun to shoot. :thumbup2:

You know the overhead isn't telling the truth. But even if it is off by 3 or 4 mpg then it looks like it is doing better than your last truck. - - - Updated - - - - - - Updated - - -

Ya, I have heard of similar stories but it sure hasn't worked for me. The flex-o-lite fan assembley replaces the stock shroud and basically blocks off the air flow through the radiator to all but the openings from the dual electric fans. The dual fans don't move quite as much air as the single larger OEM fan but with the larger OEM fan and stock shroud none of the radiator seems to be restricted to any ram air flow. I think that might add to the reduced load capability of electric fans. I have never had any problems with stop and go in town temps but with the camper loaded on hot summer days going up tall hills with the AC on the radiator with electric fans can't keep it cool.When I put the fans on I could tell the difference is cold starts and cold acceleration but I never could see any real mpg benefit from the reduced horsepower.

I installed the Flex-o-lite electric fans on my gen 2 truck and in the install directions they specifically point out that there are rated for 20k GCWR and warn you if you pull more than that then do not install. Well I don't pull anything over that with my gen 2 but I can tell you that with my camper on and coming up the Montana grade into Billlings on a hot August day that the electric fans couldn't do the job. I saw 225 degrees and rising (while only cruising 62mph) and pulled over to let it catch its breath before I could go on. - - - Updated - - - Thanks, there were more technical details in there than I have found on most of the product websites I have been researching.

With the nice weather arriving I am getting my '05 ready for some R&R activities. I am going to put my camper on the truck and hook up the boat and head out for some fun. I am thinking I want to upgrade my transmission air to oil cooler so that I can keep my tranny temps from getting high as I use the truck. I will be at max GVW on the truck and my GCWR will be about 17k. Last summer driving in the heat I saw tranny temps of 196 degrees F without the camper or the boat in tow. I know it will go up as I load the truck and travel the mountains so I want to build in lots of margin. Of course I can't find a spec on the OEM cooler so I don't know what it's BTU capacity is but I was looking at using a cooler that has thermostatic controlled electric fan. Some of these units have a 34K-40K BTU per hour rating which is supposedly capable of handling a GVW of 30k pounds. I am interested in knowing if anyone has gone this route of upgrading the transmission cooler and what did you end up using and why, and did it work out for you? I would be interested in getting something that wouldn't take a lot of custom fabrication. As an example BD-Power seems to have a unit that matches up to the 48RE fittings and wiring harness etc. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bdd-1030606-12/overview/ Sure would be interested in any thoughts or inputs on the route I should go.

Ok, so I am going to differ a little on this reply. I have the factory foglights on my '05 and they haven't really been a great deal of help when turned on. But when I did the 'brite Box' upgrade on my headlights I also did the upgrade on the foglights and I actually get some useable light from the fog units now.I am not saying they are the greatest thing since sliced bread but I can use them and I do use them now.The uprade is a mere $20 socket replacement that allows you to install a larger bulb (more lumens) than the stock one.However, I will say that I am continually looking for a round led fixture that i can adapt into the OEM foglight location. This will be even brighter than the upgrade I've made to the existing fog lights.

Boy isn't that the truth? :smart:

Didn't your mom tell you that you can go to hell for lying just like for stealing?

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Probably no love lost between Indiana and Illinois. I like that sign a lot.

So have you done something to anger the snow gods?This is the third or fourth storm in a short time isn't it?Seems like they are trying to send a strong message.

Those are really tough on a person. I think they take much longer to heal than a broken bone. Hope you are progressing well.

I checked mine also and it was tight. But now I have probably jinxed myself for sure.You know how when you wash your car it always rains.Please, Please, I don't want this problem.