pepsi71ocean

Approx 33,000 miles. These 100s burned clean when I first got them from you guys, buy that was back in 2013/2014 ish. Question, if they were flow tested, will they still be the same flow test when popped across the board. I'll most likely give you a call tomorrow and ship these out to you guys.

I have a question, Would you guys be willing to pop and flow test my injectors, then reset them to 320bar, and then flow test them again. I'm really wondering what the loss in fuel for would be.

Just for testing reasons, make sure you idle the truck in neutral for 30-45 seconds before going into gear and see if that fixes that non movement issue. My converter drains and when I let it sit for a few days or a week I've had both stalling and that non movement, but that was because the converter wasn't full. Also I worked on a dodge that had stalling issues into the 30-40s and it was because his IAT sensor was failing, and reading wrong against the ECT sensor.

Care to expand on this? I'm curios. I heard that VCO has a shorter life span, and then tend to leak sooner, unlike the SAC ones, which run cooler?

Hey Jacobb @dieselautopower I was wondering what you guys set 100HP injectors to back in 2013? I know back when I first installed these they were quite smoke free. I'm wondering if they were set to 300 (I think that is what the sticker on the bag said) Also I read back in here that you adjust the pop pressure based on the size of the injector?

I'm fairly happy with my set up I have, and i tow some crazy stuff. My advice would be Injectors and a programmer to start. The HX will handle more abuse then you will throw at it with that tractor. I would start saving up for transmission upgrades. I would look to see what kind of flex plate this truck has, and then consider pulling the transmission and doing some looking to see what kind of parts you have inside. If your planning on towing often consider an engine brake, and with that your decision on what route to take. Pacbrake makes a great turbo mounted brake that fits onto the back of the HX. But one can also get an inline brake as well. While I do agree with the superiority of the Quad, I'm still playing with this smarty and injector pop pressure to see how I can get it to run better. I have no complaints with my setup however. I believe you will be fine with that turbo for the time being. I'm still running my HX-35 with 100 HP injectors. Although it is now old school I am running an older S03 smarty programmer. But I advise that you put a programmer on the truck if your going to go much over 40hp. FYI I dynoed a few years ago 330HP/770TQ.

@Tittle Diesel Performance you said larger then stock radiator? I didn't know they made those? Yes I can see that for a 12v, I tried the holes in the tstat on my 99 and had issues reaching temp. Really Good information about the offset table. It is ironic that I do notice the difference in idle now that you mention it.

This is good to hear, I have testing to do with the smarty when I'm done with it, but I hope it is worth it as well.

The stock ECM timing and fueling map leaves much to be desired. Running larger injectors will decrease duration, but they won't give much more for flow. But having built a bunch of towing rigs over time I have yet to find a larger injector that fixing the EGT's. The higher EGT's tells me that the timing is too retarded across the board. When towing you need a programmer to get back some of your lost timing that you loose with the larger injectors. Its easy to advance the timing and duration with larger injectors, but the stock timing leaves much to be desired. EDIT: Larger Injectors will still flow the same amount of fuel as meter by the VP-44. Without a programmer you can't compensate for the added fueling. Usually these injectors are also popped lower to allow for more flow, and sooner poop off. This just exacerbates the poor map. EDIT: It looks like Mike already answered it in a better way then I could.

I have found that in more then one case the blue lock bars that go to the isolator bolts need to be loosened as well. Here's my tightening sequence and I've not had anything off when I follow it. 1. Head side of the lines where they go into the crossover tubes. 2. VP side of lines 3. Injector top brackets (that hold the injectors down. 4 blue lock bars 5. Intake plenum bolts More often then not those blue lock bars and the intake bolts that they go to will not sit in the same position. And you can get a miss from not adjusting then after you turn the lines down. Everyone need to be snug.

It really depends on your goal with the truck and motor. Closer to stock hp wise. Currently there's a huge discussion/debate about pop pressures and injector sizes. I have 100s, and I'm getting mine set to 320 bar to see how it clears up the smarty S03. In all reality anything you do hp c wise with injectors should be backed up by a programmer.

I've started in second without throwing codes. Even so the manual selector doesn't put you in real first.

I wonder if your starting in 1st gear? Are there any engine modifications on as well?

So the injectors are pulled. I'm torn between 315 and 320(settling should be 305 or 310). Anyone else have any input before going to the shop, I will be this coming Wednesday. Besides @Me78569 is there anyone else running higher pop pressure that you know of @Mopar1973Man?

Cummins came out with a tab about this issue. But even so I have larger injectors and I can see pyrometer temps in the 180 range at idle in the dead of winter with a 190 Napa stat. It's too choose to wet stacking for me. What do you mean by "off set programming" I have a smarty. I did that years ago before I built a winter front. I was it in a snow storm and lost my ad and couldn't keep the windshield clean, and then had snow and ice buildup over the ac and transmission coolers. The fluctuations on a 12v are due to the location of the proble. On my vp truck I found some stats cycle worse then others. I had cummins 180s that would cycle 172-187, but I ran Napa 190s that would cycle 185-195. For me running around in 0-35f weather the 200 seems to put out a significantly more heat compared to the other two without putting it on recalculate.

I usually just pull the IOD fuse and I'm good to go.

The coil is to help cool down the hot exhaust gases before it reaches into the gauge and inner tubing. Outside of that there isn't any difference between the two that I'm aware of. But you will need to cool those gases down.

Unless your seeing very hot temperatures I see no harm in running a 200f tstat. The cooling system will easily handle the temperature, and dump extra heat quicker then it could overheat. IMO. Even in the winter I think your in Iowa, I think you would like the extra heat in the winter. It's worth the money to try it. If not you can always swap tstats back and fourth. It's very easy to do in our trucks and doesn't require you to dump the coolant to find out. If you do decide to, let me know I'm going to write an article about it if you post back good results. I should say that while my mpg did increase, it's hard to tell it here in the East coast where your routinely running 80mph wound out because people out here have attitude issues. Combined with larger injectors and a S03, who really knows. The scan gauge showed a huge change because the IAT would stay warmer and even with the cool weather still would hold up better, when the weather starts dropping into the 50s and such I'll still see warmer IATs then before.

Yes I agree with you there. Under our over inflated is huge here. But we see allot of steer failures now because of these new air suspension front axles.

I drive a non baffled tanker and I can only say that maintaining torque on your trailer is what saves you from rolling over in a blow out. We use super singles and I've blown tires on every axle group. Fighting the instinct of hitting the brakes is hard in these situations. Granted most of us on the forum don't haul liquid, but I have seen accidents that could have been prevented if the driver had applied torque. The same can be said for having a jack knife. I've had instances where I had to stand on the brake, then immediately get on the hammer in order to straighten the trailer out to prevent an accident. For dry freight this is fine. If your hauling tanker you could roll that thing over. But I will believe that every suituation is different. And that is like driving on ice roads. Something that only a driver with time behind the wheel can figure out. I don't profess to know all, but having run team with drivers with years of experience more then my self that is what tell you. Experience.

I was wondering if a pacbrake could be mounted in its place with the pxrb flange. It would give you the 4" exhaust option. I couldn't get my truck to smoke on SW1. I wonder what sub settings your at?

Can I ask which engine brake you have installed on your turbo?

I had about 7,000 lbs of stone in my bed once, got the same looking bend between the cab and the bed. I don't think changing from a see to a dually would fix that.

It's been years since I put it in, but my Cummins still idles 197-202 on coolant temps, and even pulling I see 200-210. For cold weather operation I think it's ideal. Even in places like PA where I was working it would get down into 0-10f Mark.

I went with a billet input and a billet output shaft since I was told snapping either can be trouble. Also got a billet flexplate. Cost me a penny but I was told it was better then to break the pump/Bell housing if she goes.