pepsi71ocean

Yea high pressure engines like the CR that is in his truck will be sesative to everything, imagine trying to push algie through a injector nozzle at 20,000psi.

my truck has a similar knock as well, i would dare to say it is a timing knock.it will be noticeable as it gets worse, (if it is)i know that my vp-44 has a fuel leak and the fuel is leaking into the engine oil, and as a result the truck hard starts when cold and has high EGT's all of this started right after i had the skinny pedal down for the count.In the process of avoiding an accident my trucks rpm's went from 1,200 to 3,000 rpm's in a flash, and the engine never acted the same ever again.

if you have any questions feel free to ask

Here watch my videos on you tube its a 3 part series, its not the best made video but i tried to be very through. http://www.youtube.com/user/CumminsForumHelp#p/u/3/7hwHSp4ErOQ --- Update to the previous post... If not, my vote would go to Jacobb on the CF, his Diesel auto power injectors work great, and give my 99 a good pep to its step.

in my opinion it depends on what you do with the truck. as someone who hauls everything with this truck i went with a aftermarket FASS 95 pump. it has a pair of filters on it, and came with larger fuel lines. the fass is more expensive then the raptor but the fass is a upgrade from the raptor (which replaces your stock fuel pump, and uses the stock filter and pump. My fass system came with a wiring harness and replacement larger fuel lines and a draw straw. Once installed i have to report that i see 15-17psi non stop winter or summer. I have also added other goodies like a fuel heater, and used USCG fuel line to help keep the draw down to a minimum. Now you can do the same with a raptor, but you will need to buy a 1/2inch fuel line and all the needed parts and then your restrictions will still be the stock filter system. Since i town heavy i wanted a fuel pump (and thew harness and larger fuel lines) to help with high demand fueling. I have noticed that under heavy acceleration i can draw the fass down to 14-15psi hauling about 20,000lbs ratherwise she is as stable as a rock with anything under 10,000. Now before when i had the in tank pump conversion (suppose be better then block one) i was going from 13-14psi down to 10. If your at 10 empty i wonder what you were under load?

gaining oil as in you have mixing of diesel fuel and oil. the only real way to tell is to do an oilo change and see the greenish tint coming out of the motor. (you can also check for dilution with a paper towel and your oil dipstick. since you said it was replaced.... my advice would then be to use baby powder and sprinkle it on on the fittings you will have it change color if it is attracting diesel fuel. When the "stealer ship" changed my return tube (when they replaced the Vp-44) they didn't tighten down on the return line enough, so here we are a few years later where the tube was loose as hell and even came off when i went to replace the check ball valve on the VP-44. DANGER! i wouldn't put t much faith in the "rubber lines" as they are not really rubber bur more like hard plastic, however with a stock lift pump putting out 9-10psi of fuel pressure i would advise you replace your lift pump soon. You can kill two birds with one stone this way. I live on the rusty east coast and my fuel lines are fine, granted i would east stock lift pumps like there was no tomorrow because they were crap, and my truck when hauling would put a tremendous strain on them i can tell you that the drop from 15-12psi was quick, it hangs here for sa while then when the pump's bearings go your psi will drop pick, but by then it will be to late. Take my advice replace your pump now, and prevent a VP-44 failure, i have lived through many VP-44 replacements because of said OEM lift pump. My fass 95 has outlived both stock OEm pumps to date, if she died tomorrow i feel i got my money's worth:smart:

it is also a sign of a shot front end on the VP-44, my current one developed a temperature sensitive leak that would cause hard starting up hill or on level ground when cold, but if i plugged in the truck she would start up hill. once the weather broke i stopped gaining oil, however the Vp-44 didn't like it

did you evacuate the system to -20psi of pressure before charging? if not then it sounds like that is your culprit.

the first thing is you say 9-10psi at WOT, is that towing or is that sitting and free reving?also are you gaining oil? did you tighten down the T fitting on the back of the motor? it seems however your eratic idle is computer based i would think. also what fuel pump did you put in when you replaced everything, is it a OEM pump or is it aftermarket ie fass airdog or raptor?

Dodge did give a guy a new dash cluster that started at 1,000,000 miles and used the DRB to correct the numbers. i can't find the link but i bet if cajflynn called dodge they would do something for him! i read that article a while ago, while i have issues with fords im glad to see that someone has one that works great, makes me wonder if fors are really just crap or maybe it is the operators.......(gets into a story i know about a guy with a F-450 i know:lol:)

avoid K&N and Fram filters like the plague.Use only Cummins approved filters on your motor, the exception are NAPA air filters 2790 or 6637.

you are saying that the when your pressurize the intake you have air pressure coming out of the valve cover oil fill? I think a proper compression test is needed, and i wish i could find mikes write up on it. either you have a weak valve, or a dead cylinder, this can explain the smoke down low. do you have fuel in your oil? does she blow blue smoke at idle? EDIT: found it http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/compression/compression-test.htm Check that out, and report back.

my advice is to buy a shift kit, and get a billet accumulator for 2nd gear. between those two you should be more then good to cover for the weakness in the truck.next step is a billet single.i did the above to my truck and i felt an immeadiate change in how she drove, she tows heavy campers and boats now with less issue in o/D

I would look into a Performance muffler/resonator then. I got one from Walt when i did my exhaust system and i like it alot considering i don't go def. when im towing.

The transmissions line pressure is not wholly controlled by the TV cable, this is a gas solution because the gas engines get enough rpm out of the transmission to get the fluid pump to produce the pressure. This is why many dodge owners with gas engines change the TV cable lenght, because it changes when the transmission shifts, and as such controls the rpm of the engine and the trannys fluid pump. The main issue(IMO) is the springs used to control the line pressure in the valve bodies, these springs and balls produce sub par line pressures to prevent the clutches from slipping. If you increase your valve body line pressure going to all parts of the transmission then you can get more active friction and as such less slippage is induced. This is why the tC on the on the TM models do not lock as low as they do. My truck will have lock up anywhere above 33mph, if i put it in o/d off i can get lock up at 1,100rpms and then lay the throttle and watch it slip, but since installing the shift kit the trans will not slip anymore, instead it spools up quicker and will give you that feeling like it wants to rip the tires loose. On a friends 2001 4x4 auto his truck would not lock up in 3rd gear until almost 40mph, an by then the rpm's were almost 1,700. Now once he added injectors you could tell when TM went "off", because all the sudden the truck would have power, and on a stock auto his truck was fine until we loaded my smarty on it and turn TM down, then he would have lock up way lower around 1,300-1,400 and you would get trans slippage in O/D. The only internal difference is how the over dirve unit is lubricated and that was changed somewhere around 2000, but this was done due to poor lubrication of the overdrive planetary gear, in the end these features were only good to do just enough, because Chrysler redesigned the pump and the valve bodies, and input shaft to produce the 48re, This is because the next model cummins was indeed way to much for the 47re design.

turns out our local gas station is price gouging. diesel here is 3.90 and down south near ac it is as low as 3.69 Go figure damm arse holes. gas varies as well 3.75 here to 3.61 there, i was so shocked.

guys make sure you do your tests in netural, my truck loves to drive to one side since i got my alignment done, but hell in neutral she is a straight as an arrow, and BTW since i got the alignment my pyro's drop over 100F.You truck wanting to go to one side is normal especially if your adding power and have the LSD rear, because power isw being transmuted to one side before the other,

Because full line pressure shift will completely f a tranny up, unless it is fully built with billtet shafts and parts, and even then it will hurt them plenty. This is correc, the 99 model(well somewhere i think 2000.5 and below, didn't have TM. The PCM knows your speed by the speed sensor in the rear axle of your truck, there is a VSS sensor in the transmission but AFAIC they were never used, TM was applied to the whole engine parameter, there is no difference between auto and Manual. Basicall if your engine is 215HP you do not have TM, the TM is what allowed doge to go from 215 and 420 to 235/450. The earlier truck also shift differently and have a different attitude towards driving when loaded. FOr example my truck tends to run right up to 2,200rpm and will stay there (or anywhere you plant the throttle) and keep accelerating until you get to the top gear. And it doesn't lock the torque converter either This truck will lock up only in 4th gear, or in 3rd if O/D is off. The best fix to a pre TM truck is a goosd shift kit, from DTT Goerend or Suncoast. By chanign your fluid pressure at idle and all through the bands you will give the tranny more line pressure to help keep those clutches sealed and that TC full. OPne of the major downfalls of the pre Tm trucks is that when accelerating with a stock auto you will watch the temps prise and rise usually to 180-200 depending, When towing the TC will never get filled enough to keep it cool even on lock up, the Lock up will draw more fluid away from the couplings and as such if you lay the pedal it will slip, even if it is by 100-200rpms or so like my truck did. Mainly my trucks issues were not exacerbated by the boost elbow or the smarty programmer i have. I installed the boost elbow fixed the OBD port and and now my truck feels stronger then ever, and when accelerating i can really feel the smarty, i can feel the boost level increased on the truck now with the boost elbow, andf the smarty will light the turbo up without issue even when towing 12,000lbs, hell i towed a heavy load yesterday almost 23,000gcw, and i must say that my truck now runs very well, i figure im dropping much more about 350hp to the rear wheels, say 250 maybe 500 or so who knows, never dyno'ed the truck but i know that it pulls like a mule.

Since you have a 2001, you should think about J-hooking your turbo, the HY-35's will not handle the heat as well as the HX's do.Torque management is another vixin, athough i would say if you do ANYTHING, do a shift kit at a minimum, my auto lived long enough before i finally put one in, but by then it would slip in O/D with the injectors i added.I got 60hp injectors from J-kidd, Jacob is a good guy and knows his stuff, The DAP injectors were inhouse remans but with new internals, they bore out the injector holes a bit just enough to give you a shortened duration for a quieter burn. As such my truck is quieter all around and especially at idle, when you take my 08 dodge and oput the EB on it is as loud as the 08 now. MUCH quieter then the stock 215's.I have a little over 5,000 miles on my DAP injectors and no issues minum fuel in the oil(from worn out VP-44), and slipping trans(injectors to much for her).I would recommend you do this in this order.1. Gauges, Pyro, trans temp, and fuel pressure2. Shift kit for trans3. injectors4. Smarty to turn the TM donw to as low as you can get.1. The reason you need gauges is because you need to know how your drive train is running. Your exhaust temps are a combination of fueling, timing, and boost pressure, if any of the 3 are out of normal then yes you will have bad temps, 2. You need a shift kit at a minimum, these stock auto's can barely hold onto a Cummins motor let alone take the abuse of and additional 60HP and 140lbs or torque through the motor,3. Injectors its your choice, but with a 01, that has a HY and if you have a desire to tow stings i would say 75's at a most.4. I suggest a smarty, but there are other options out there, the reason i suggest a smarty is multi fold. 1. You can turn down torque management, 2. You can change how fast the engine will get to top speed. 3. it gives you more low end (1,200-1,800rpm) torque which if you tow is very useful. It can also read codes change your speed and all that toher stuff, but i suggest is for those reason above.Now you should also understand that unless you TAP the Vp-44 pump you will not get much more then 60HP or so from any PROGRAMMER, this includes edge comps and quads if you tap the pump feel free to get much more.Also, the smarty is the only programmer besides the BD rad box that will tunr down TM, to an almost invisible level, the BD rad box will do it but you will run the great risk of loosing your instrument cluster, which is fine if you plan to sled pull, or use mechanical gauges.Now i should also note that your programmer will add Hp on top of your current mechanical horsepower, so for example 215HP+60Hp=275Hp(this is pump HP+Injector HP=total mechanical HP, now add the chip Hp, of a smarty 60Hp and you get ~335HP, so now in order to get the most of that HP you need to run about 34-35psi of boost to get that number of HP,(diesels are roughly 10hp per 1psi of boost) this is where your HY turbo becomes the major limit, the HY starts to max out around 30-35psi while the HX will max ou higher. Even with a Jhook don't think you can run higher without over speeding the turbo, or pumping hot air through your engine which can be worse. Now i should also say this is all theoritical of course, but i do believe my math is correct in layments terms used.Anyways, this is how i learned diesel engine work.

OMG, LMAO I get the same conversations all the time with the parents who insist i ditch the 99 and go with the 08. They took it to dodge that claimed my injectors were the wrong SIZE,a dn that they were not geniune Mopar injectors and as such that was causing the fuel leak, and after that i informed them the fuel leak started BEFORE the injectors went in, that is when the Cummins technican said well then idk what could be letting the fuel in. i went:lol: And left and haven't had issues since the weather broke, but i do plan on changing that black(euro made one) VP out for one not so black.

my stalling issues still exist, the other day i pulled out of a job intview and threw it from N to 1 and the truck stuttered badly until i put it into drive.

no, but my truck had 10 year old engine coolant in it, the inside was lime green:neutral: After flushing it with water and i flushed it all it was still green, till i changed the coolant again 30,000 miles later. then it was rusty red. And so the block is red, the radiator went from lime green to aluminum color as well. but im just wondering.Im constantly worried my trans/cooler and the oil/cooler might decide to bust apart and leak, because i have heard the stories of these oil cooler and trans coolers rotting out with lack of fluid changes.Now im not so bold and brazen yet to pull them apart and look inside to see what their status is, but the rust color doesn't help my thoughts.Lastly with my trans parts hopefully coming in soon and as boost elbow ready to go on the truck im wondering if this motor might not handle the boost elbow running 28-35psi of boost down this motor as im still not sure on weather to over torque my head studs if it is necessary yet.

im talking about the inside of the engine, where the engine coolant goes specifically.sorry for the confusion.

my DAP 60's made my motor run much quieter all around, infact it is now about as loud as our 6.7.....(with the eb on that is:lol:I should say mpg went up too.

should also mention low mpg on the 24's can come from several1. toe is off on the front end.2. low tire pressure3. Vp-44 low fuel pressure bad timing = bad mpg4. worn out turbo, waste gate issues or a leak5. sensors are crap, had to clean out my IAT and MAP sensors and i have no Exhaust brake)6. bad fuel pressure.i should say that i have fought an endless battle with my truck over mpg since i passed that car 2 years ago. went from 20mpg consistent to 8mpg this winter. If he fails a snap test then you know it is a boost leak, most likely on the drive side, or the waste gate is open or something along those lines, or it could be a VP-44 on the way out.I know that fixing No.1 and 2 gave me some mpg, the No.1 helped alot with drive load, as my truck runs about 100-`150F cooler now.Im still fighting:banghead: but last tank was 17.5, tank before it was 15.8:ahhh: