pepsi71ocean

How are your batter cables? I had to change mine after the drivers side failed a vDrop test on the drivers battery. It was causing the alternator issues I had. I've had no issues with starting down into the 30's with my truck.

@dave110 if you're not in a rush. Give me a few weeks to put the Dodge back together and you can take her for a spin and see how the motor handles. I'm being told it will be a cold winter.

FWIW, I passed in NJ with 100s and a smarty.

I do believe it's correlated Mike. As I told you on the phone, popping 50hp injectors at 325bar I think will cause a issue, but larger injectors such as 150s will thrive at 325bar. I think there is a safe range for higher pop injectors based on the size. There later the size the more the slack you can take out of it.

I've heard mixed reviews, but even the ones that were mixed said good things. The biggest thing is to not allow the bad ground issues to dry the diodes. Although for the price you can get a good sized semi truck alternator as well.

I didn't have any issues going down to about 20f, and that was about when I downed the truck for mechanical work. I did have issues at first with starting, but I can't tell if it was transmission related or engine related, but they did go away. The truck stalls allot, but I had to drop my valve body as it wouldn't do it in manual 1, only drive. Now to be fair, the truck did this as well beforehand with the injectors before I pulled to get them popped. The truck idles smoother and runs like a raped ape I can assure you that.

Yeah, I went about 1/4 inch at a time, anything more then that and it gets torqued inside the knuckle and can cause more issues.. best to go a little at a time.

I used two impact sockets and impact extensions while holding them, and had my brother turn the steering wheel. I did it in cross cross pattern and they came out in about 5 mins. engine not running. Just nice and quick.

did you do a vDrop test on the ground cables? My truck ate 3 alternators in 9 months when the ground started to go bad.

Let me know when your going to do them. I can always swing by with my tools and give you a hand. I have the cups for the air chizle and such.

Your 100% sure you have the right connector?

It shouldn't make a difference, when I put my new bearings on i ran them in till they were tight, @Mopar1973Man may have a better thought on this though.

I pulled mine off and never looked back. I'm fairly sure I'll live to regret this though.

I really like the higher popped injector pressures on my truck. I really think that all injectors should be popped higher, especially the larger ones. It really helps with pre-boost spooling. Even with my smarty it helps with the pre-boost spooling better then adjusting the TM and D' numbers.

230 sounds really low, more likely 280. Either way they should be re-popped. Mine were around 280 when I pulled them around 33,000 miles. Have them popped to 310-315 bar. I tell people that popping injectors is a normal ware item. Personally I popped mine to 325, and haven't had any issues per say. Now understand that when you get injectors set, they usually drop 10bar quickly, and that is considered normal. But with a truck without a tuner, you need to run lower pop, which is why allot of injectors are set to 300. I went higher knowing that after 45,000 miles i should see 290bar by then. It could cause a hard start, but then it would do it all of the time.

It would start up fine nose up only when i left the block heater plugged in. if I didn't' plug it in, it would loose prime. Even thought it was going on May, I had to leave it plugged in. It took maybe 2,000 miles of driving to determine what the problem was the last 1,000 miles required oil changes every 500 miles or so. I was gaining about 1'' in crank case. A good way to test is to use a paper towel and see if you can see a highlighter green hailo around the oil on the dipstick. you check it like you would your engine oil, just wipe it onto the paperwork and see after a few mins the diesel separates from the oil. Bear in mind, that it took another 40,000 miles of oil changes for the diesel to finally stop showing up in my oil changes, because it was scrubbing all of my bearings clean inside the motor.

Most likely blew out the front seal on the vp-44. That's exactly what happened to me. I went to pass someone and went from 1,250rpm to 3,300rpm's and that was enough to do it. Avoided the accident though! Anyways the front seal took a crap. It took 4 months before the oil level started to rise in the engine. I went through the exact same testing and found that plugging the truck in nose up it fired up just fine because the heat was on the block on the front seal. Nose down the tank is higher then the vp, and thus there was no air gap for it to go into. If it matters my pump was painted black and there was speculation that the dodge dealership that installed it installed a Chezch rebuild that was probably never build right.

Raise your pop pressure you won't be disappointed! It helps with spool up tremendously. Slightly larger injectors without programming will always cause smoke. Because the timing needs to be adjusted for the difference. In this case You can compensate for the difference by raising pop pressure or adding timing. The advantage of raising pop pressure is that you loose some of that turbo lag.

And this is why I changed the poop pressure on my truck. The higher pop pressure, combined with my years of tuning experience with the smarty have given me a truck that runs almost as clean as stock. And as a result I've already passed several snap tests. Yes do the gauges on a piler Target me, yes, but so does the black soot on the back corner of the truck before I got it turned. The smarty can clean up, but you can't do it with regular bar popped injectors. Rolling coal here in Jersey is definitely an excuse to get pulled over anymore.

Well I have worked on several cars with assinine battery placement. All of the later model Chrysler's out then in the driver's fender. VW loves to put them in the fire wall, so that you have to deadlift then out with your back. And you seriously need to keep those terminals covered. And I've had it arc easily too. What I find the best enertainment was trying to tighten the positive terminal and managing to have the wrench spin backwards and spark again the battery. Of course over the years I've found it better to go positive only when the ground is disconnected. Then you get no Sparks at all.

All 6 lines do not squirt out fuel at all? When cranking even my vp44, and several others I've changed have always puttered out fuel when cranking. I'm thinking it's either a seized rotor head, or you have a bad VP. Have you tried to run the VP and had it idle with the plug hot wired?

The ECM is out of an automatic you need to have the dealer flash the manual engine programming. It is probably the anti stall acting up. If not verify that it came from a late model truck. There's several articles around the crank/can/FCM all 3 must read the same or else you'll get issues. May I ask how it died? Do you have a noise isolator on the truck? Was the the alternator tested? The smarty doesn't change anything in the transmission programming in terms of shifting. It changes how the PCM and ECM communicate via the torque management settings. With an automatic it charges how much sooner the fueling comes in thought the ECM. This is often felt through the shift points changing based on the TM#. The shifting in the valve body is done either thought hydraulics or the electronics via the lock up and governor pressure solenoid. Neither of which is controlled by the smarty. However on manual trucks it doesn't show up because your brain does the shifting, not a computer/tv cable.

I don't want to hear that!

Y'all are just getting to where we are in the People's Republic. The is why I keep my smarty and higher popped injectors. I've been snapped before with the smarty, but I passed a snap test with those higher popped injectors.

Combined high boost and high RPM I can see how one can see some valve float. but my truck seems to hammer the same between 1,800 and 2,400rpm. I tend o keep higher rpm towards 2,200rpm ad that's about where i find the max for my truck loaded.