LorenS

Remember in your case with that style of pump you'll have an "extra" return. The stock return line is untouched. The new return from your FASS will go to that second hose barb (port R),per instructions you posted. In years past, that return was to a wye or tee cut into the filler neck hose.

You aren't kidding. I believe I bought Cover Craft seat covers in 2017. Darn expensive but they are DURABLE! And for at least the first few years quite coffee repellent. 🙄

Is it possible for the grid heater to cause this through some fluke?

I'd be shopping for a Kevlar scarf - with spikes!

Geno's solely focuses on Ram trucks and is great. The staff is quite knowledgeable. They are associated with the Turbo Diesel Register. I don't believe they sell any junk and I've only heard good things about the customer service. In my dealings with them I haven't needed customer service, which is the highest form of perfection in my book!

This is true for their 1 year warranty, $1300 model, but the computer is listed as "upgraded", just used; my assumption would be that the newer pump computers don't fail as often so if they get back a pump that ate some debris and failed, the computer would still be fine. The more expensive models with longer warranty apparently have a NEW computer. That said, why someone wouldn't buy a DAP unit sourced from a Bosch certified rebuilder I don't really know. If I broke down near a Seidel Diesel Group (Midwest Fuel Injection) facility I would use theirs; for all I know they are the supplier to DAP.

I really like my Centramatics, but admittedly they weren't cheap. No odd tire wear, and they're essentially permanent.

I recently chucked my damper in the trash and have no intention of replacing it. Not all trucks came with them, right? Was it a trim level marketing thing, a band aid to death-wobble, or something else? I ran awhile with a clearly useless and worn out damper, then put on a damper that wore out quickly in highway driving, and now the truck is damper free. Can't really tell a difference!

The y-type steering may be best for folks that off-road a lot. My truck rarely leaves smooth terrain, not needing lots of articulation so I put on the t-style and like it a lot. Changing control arms was NOT fun at around 280k miles. Buy new bolts, have your smoke wrench handy. I bought an A/C Delco Gold track bar and it's very heavy duty compared to others I have seen. It may be a rebranded MOOG for all I know, so also available at NAPA under their naming system. The yellow Bilsteins didn't last as long as I'd hoped on the front of the truck. I hypothesize that constantly running in the same 1/2" of travel on smooth roads just made them wear very fast in one place, versus a little wear along a longer travel. Replaced with KYB per Moparman recommendation.

The short answer is yes, but I wouldn't spend much time and/or money investigating that scenario before installing everything again and torqueing down in the correct order.

Bought my truck with a TIMBOS 75k miles ago. I, too, have another for a spare but it's not under the seat.

Or this one? Just swipe left or right for different gauge arrangements.

I bought my truck with 270k miles or so, and I'm certain they were original injectors. On changing them out they were pressure tested and one would discharge just from the weight of the tester handle! The others just puked fuel, no spray. Reman units all had the FSM pop pressure with a nice pattern.

Clearly they weren't on my truck.

I would say yes. First time I changed my fluid when getting the truck there was a lot. And there was a lot the next couple of times as I changed the fluid in shorter intervals because I swear at 270k miles it was the stock fluid - so, so nasty, viscous, and black. Then a couple of months ago I drained the axle fluid again when I wanted to adjust the preload in my limited-slip diff, and there was a little less than there used to be.