LorenS

The PF-001 has a 144 micron rating. Likely just a screen if it's like the Donaldson I run. The "water separator" is rated rated at 2 microns. May have some cellulose in the filter, which absorbs the water.

One thing I like about the stock cooler is that it helps warm the trans fluid in winter. It's one big reason I used my block heater more than many others do. I only lived about a mile from the interstate, so getting things up to temp quickly was important to me. When I plugged in, my transmission temp came up much faster than when I didn't (sensor in pan).

I guess the test is when the parts guy brings you the spark plugs, he wins. https://www.cummins.com/engines/isb67-g

Propane or natural gas, I assume. A few years back I was at a meat packing plant and their refrigeration compressors we're big CAT engines. V12 or 16, can't remember. The crankshaft output was 4" diameter. Natural gas engines. The electric company would call when reaching peak demand and ask them to switch to engine power versus electric motor compressors.

I figured this opinion counts for far more than anything I've got to say on the matter. It's the third question down. https://goerend.com/goerend-frequently-asked-questions

I believe I read about that on Friday, that's a pretty tough situation.

89 ⁰F and 70⁰ dew point today. More humid tomorrow since we might get a splash of rain tonight.

I believe that a year later they have finally taken your idea to heart. Does anyone know the "correct" temperature of the planet? Is it when Minnesota was covered in glaciers, or when Kansas was under water? Or some specific temperature in between? The oceans becoming less alkaline seems to be a bigger issue.

Just tried my hand at brazing for the first time in a few years. Haven't cleaned it up yet, still very hot! Here are a couple photos. Used "Harris 15" rod, and Harris Stay-Silv flux. EDIT: of course after I'm done I look up if Harris 15 application and it says "Not recommended for brazing steel or other ferrous metals due to sufficient lack of joint ductility". In this application I'm not worried about ductility as the only force this joint will see is the removal/installation of nuts from the bolts to change shocks.

Sunday morning I had high hopes of changing my front shocks. Driver's side went well, but two of the passenger side shock tower retainer studs snapped off. In lieu of spending $30-40 to replace this part, I came up with a "repair" plan that hopefully may help someone in the future that doesn't have a week to dream this up and build it. Also, I read nothing but bad things about the MOOG version of this device - for some folks the studs immediately snapped, for others the studs spun in the retainer. I'm not yet done with this, so this is a post in progress. Basically I have thus far cut the hex off some grade 10.9, 10-1.5x25mm flange bolts and plan to either silver solder (because I have some lying around) them to the ring or tack weld. I cut the heads off because I didn't want the heads cutting into the rubber spring isolator. Used 32 TPI cheap hacksaw blade, with the bolt chucked into my drill press, set to slow. I first made some cuts at the hex points so it wasn't too bumpy. Here are some photos.

Wow, that's way different than mine! Watching the OBD live data, I saw that my gauge wouldn't move off vertical until 215 degrees. Aren't the temp gauges in these trucks just a step up from dummy lights? Or maybe that's just oil pressure and my gauge is the one that's worn out!

I sure thought the mechanicals had a regulator with a line back to the tank. I guess the website wants me to reply again... Why does it do this? Anyway, @IBMobile had a lost back around 2019 and mentioned a regulator. Was that aftermarket? Those are PD pumps and could blow the system apart without a regulator. Is it internal? The kits show a return for the filler neck, what's it for if not pump return? So confused.

I sure thought the mechanicals had a regulator with a line back to the tank.

Good writeup on this, makes me more willing to tackle this project before the leak(s) get unbearable.

Yes, it seems this thread morphed into a sidebar of the other thread. And I was confused, not you! It's 5AKman with the EZ. Caleb Hardy has an Adrenaline. Sheesh!

I guess me, too, because someone had to explain it to me several years ago!

Home again today thanks to Commie Cold and feeling fantastic so thought I'd change out my front fuel tank strap that has been bent/ mangled since before I bought the truck. Just like the Kung Flu, it too is from China. The new straps are plain carbon steel so the one I installed got a good coat of paint before install. Factory straps appear to have been galvanized. Here are some photos I took to compare; the new strap is actually for the rear, hence the smaller size and lack of clipped corners at the bolt end. Corners must be clipped to clear driveshaft center support bracket. Not sure what to think of the spot welds versus rivets. Time will tell. And a picture of a grill table I made about 12 years ago for a Weber grill I found on the side of the road!

I think he's still running the Edge EZ, Adrenaline not yet installed.

Do you mean like the above? Just highlight text and it SHOULD have the little "quote selection" box. I've found that if it doesn't, you can scroll your screen a tiny amount and it'll show up. Then tap that button and it's fairly self explanatory after that.

I had forgotten your 5th gear is 0.71, which is close to my absurd 0.69. So ignore my comment above. Why can't these designers give something like a 0.80 5th and 0.64 6th gear? I'm sure it's a good reason just would love to know the reason.

Agreed. Of course having a 6-speed Allison with two well-spaced OD gears makes this fairly well a non issue except in first gear.

No, but I have 3rd gen 17" wheels so currently running 265/65-17 at ~30.5" diameter, similar to 245/75-16. They may weigh more, but doesn't mean much at a constant rotational speed. I haven't a clue how the ECM actually calculates % engine load or what it uses for assumptions. Being 90s technology I'd say it has no way of figuring out on its own if injectors are changed. Perhaps it just determines what percentage of the total available injection duration is being utilized and reports that. I just don't know.

I've tried all I know to do with my tuning, and 650⁰ is just pretty normal for my truck even flat ground, both Adrenaline and my ISSPRO. Slight hill and it's pushing 800. My injectors are remans, ballpark 50k miles. I'm no expert on this stuff, but it sounds like your injection pump is fighting like hell to put fuel in the cylinder. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Filter(s) clean? Sock in fuel tank crudded over?

This sounds like you pulled the injectors and them them back to have them tested. My engine load in park is 6-8%, it fluctuates a little. Cruising on highway, my engine load is higher than yours, but your injector flow rate is higher so duration is lower for same amount of fuel.

Unless you want to change wheels also, I suggest sticking to the tire size you have. I decided to try 265/65/17s to get the 30.5" tire diameter and still safely fit the wheel width. They're fine, but a rare tire size for trucks if you need one while traveling. I'm super interested in your injectors! I bought a set on sale around Christmas (2020? 2021?) and have yet to install them.