IBMobile

No, I've never seen that, but this is what worked for me. The relay should have the switched 12 volts going to terminal 86 and terminal 85 is the relay ground. Relay terminal 30 would be connected to the orange/black wire at PCM B11 and terminal 87 going to ground with a ½ watt 33 ohm resistor inline. The "grounding relay" on the right side of the diagram below is how it should look using your rocker switch where the toggle/foot switch is shown.

I have a 12 qt waste oil drain container that I use just for transmission work for situations where the oil is new, but the pan has to come off.

I'm getting the hang of it now, I think.

You would think it would, but I haven't delt with how a Quadzilla is installed and what other sensors are tapped into to make it work. The 5-volt reference from terminal #11 is also used by the oil pressure sensor and the grounding terminal #11 at the ECM is also used for the oil pressure sensor, air intake temp sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, and the water in fuel sensor.

Test MAP sensor Remove MAP sensor. With a multimeter set for 20 volts DC and ignition key on test orange wire at pin A of MAP sensor for 5 volts. With a multimeter set for 20 volts DC and ignition key on test black with light blue tracer wire at pin B of MAP sensor for ground. Reading should be 0.0-0.10 volts. With a multimeter set for 20 volts DC and ignition key on test gray with red tracer wire at pin C of MAP sensor. Take voltage reading with no air pressure applied to end of MAP and record reading. Next apply air pressure to end of MAP sensor and record reading; there should be a change in voltage. Grounding of the MAP sensor is provided at terminal #11 at the ECM. 5-volt reference comes from terminal #10 at the ECM. The sensor signal voltage is sent to terminal 8 at the ECM.

Yes Yes The splice is at the fire wall but terminates at the battery. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/pcm-ground-splice-repair-r675/?tab=comments#comment-115

Tried that and all it did was change the background from black to white. The format is still the same with a bigger font, can find things.

The old website format I had down pat but with this new format I'm having a heck of a time finding where things are now. Two examples that I cannot find are the article section and the personal messenger area. I use my laptop for 99.9% of the communications I do here. Michel has tweaked the format to be more phone friendly but has that now made it unfriendly to other users?

How much? These look like the something from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/BUNKER-INDUST-Daytime-Running-Replacement/dp/B07WFLK5D6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2O08SKPSEI6UO&keywords=2000+dodge+ram+2500+fog+light+assembly&qid=1673665479&replacementKeywords=fog+light+assembly&s=automotive&sprefix=2000+dodge+ram+2500+fog+light+assembly%2Cautomotive%2C182&sr=1-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&vehicle=2000-40-2780------------&vehicleName=2000+Dodge+Ram+2500

You're going to install a fuse in a wire; not taking it out on a date.

Along with the alternator being controlled by the PCM have you installed fuse in the blue wire from the PCM to the alternator to protect the PCM circuit board/ voltage regulator? Alternator and PCM protection - Electrical - Mopar1973Man.Com LLC https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/alternator-and-pcm-protection-r617/

Not at this time.

Me78569 removed his tunes and is no longer selling them at this time.

I didn't know you were from Brooklyn.

The codes were P0420 and P0430? I've had the same codes on other cars and fix them by using spark plug non-foulers. Drill the inside of one non-fouler to just over ½ inch so that the rear O² sensor can be screwed into it. Now screw that non-fouler with the O² sensor into the other non-fouler. Install all that into the exhaust bung and you're done. O'Reilly sells the non-foulers 2 for $10; part# 42009.

One draw back that I see is if the cove needs to come off there is only one source for the oring where the gasket is produced by several manufacturers. If that one source for the oring goes out of business, what would you do?

This is a good quick read about the subject. https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a3428/4271579/

A YouTube video about this. (293) RAM 3500 Frame Cracked In Half By Camper Fail: This Is What Happens When You Assume... - YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHD_R8NUCa8

Dynamic Transmisson was my choice when my trans needed rebuilding. I shipped it from San Diego to his shop.

Here are three but there are more; Google 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 turbo diesel dipstick. https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3937748/?gclid=CjwKCAiA-8SdBhBGEiwAWdgtcEV-gOnjYLV28iJN4k5IsL3fpi-HggXHwLtmy27GwMOXXQUJtUHI9xoCuxAQAvD_BwE https://www.ebay.com/itm/265237412749?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1FtIoryZKRn-Hn5T-_JaRqQ82&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=265237412749&targetid=1644837434523&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9031295&poi=&campaignid=16743749222&mkgroupid=138744546207&rlsatarget=pla-1644837434523&abcId=9300842&merchantid=138378214&gclid=CjwKCAiA-8SdBhBGEiwAWdgtcDAuVpch1R6jsIQlflRXGEzrfcPOyCNTeqV3fuMERdfOoizp-N5lLhoCNJsQAvD_BwE https://www.xtremediesel.com/cummins-3959009-engine-oil-dipstick-flat-blade-style?gclid=CjwKCAiA-8SdBhBGEiwAWdgtcKhPe6jsYGfon4lWXExcveOLq1h_JKjNsJ2qDq2nowflxqYECI69txoCIokQAvD_BwE

May the New Year bring you happiness, peace, and prosperity. Wishing you a joyous 2023!

leave that ground attached to the head. You may want to clean the connection there. Reattach all the connections to the back of the alternator, one cable is for the ground and the other cable is the B+ charge which will be routed to the positive terminal on the right (passenger) side battery. The other two wires are for voltage control from the PCM. The blue wire is where you can install a (5-7.5 amp) fuse for PCM protection. It's not that much work to open that wire harness to expose everything. If you disconnect the alternator charge wire at the PDC you will then have its full length to work with when routing it to the right-side battery via a fuse or circuit breaker. When you open the wire harness up you will see where the ground wires are all joined this where you want to make your cut so that you have enough wire to work with and have a clean looking job.

If I had a load of mesquite I'd be barbecuing a pig.

Another thing with high electrical loads is the fuse you add, to protect the PCM, in the blue wire from the alternator. I tried a 5-amp fuse, but it popped when the grid heaters and E-brake air compressor were on together. I put a 7.5-amp fuse in and no more trouble.

No, I wouldn't worry about those things at all.