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Sometimes the view is worth not having cell service.

My friends neighbor did it in lime green. Looks good from 40' away. Up close it has that textured look. He must have done it wrong.

You can't have a normal conversation outside my truck. It's just to loud and it's an auto. The factory says to adjust the valves every 150,000 mi.

You have a good point if you're out in the wilderness and no one can hear you but when in an urban area a Snickers and a cell phone will do. In the summer of 73 I had to replace an engine in a Volvo at Greenwood, Delaware. When I was done I put the core engine in the trunk and was driving 8hr to Cumberland, Rhode Island by way of I-95. About 6:00 AM and half way through Connecticut I hear a loud bang, oil light on and in my rearview mirror blue smoke pouring out behind me! I pull over, shut down, and fearing the worst lift the hood to see if the engine had thrown a rod. The sides of the block looked all right so I look under the car and see that the oil drain plug had fallen out. I must not have tightened it very well. While I'm doing this roadside inspection I hear a car stop behind mine and it's a Connecticut State Trooper. The Trooper asks me what the problem is and after telling him what had happened he says "Where are you going to find a drain plug at this time of day around here". Now without thinking I said, "No problem. I've got a spare engine in the trunk. I'll take the drain plug off of that". The Trooper replied laughing "Now I've heard of carrying a spare tire, spare belts and hoses but I've never hear of a spare engine"! With the engine on its side in the trunk I took the drain plug off with a socket and ratchet, installed it on the other engine, filled it with oil and went on my way. I needed a cup of coffee.

Just got back in town after 10 days and doing some catch up. Glad to hear that Mopar Mom is on the mend and moving. All those thoughts and prayers must be helping and a great big thanks to all those friends giving you support on the home front.

In our thoughts and prayers.

I haven't found a battery powered air hammer yet.

I find the home air compressor doesn't produce the volume of air to satisfactorily run air tools. I have a 5.5 HP 25 gal tank compressor in my work van and find that it can't keep up with the demand the tools put on it. I would need an 8-10 HP 60-80gal tank if I wanted to fully utilize the tools with out the wait time to build pressure back up. To over come this problem I'm using battery powered impact tools. My main stay is a Milwaukee 12 volt ¼ drive ratchet along with a Ryobe 18 volt ½ drive impact. I think the Milwaukee 18 volt ½ drive has more torque and I'll get that one next. All my other battery operated tools use the same size batteries so I carry at least two spare batteries of each type with me. The down side to this is remembering to keep the batteries recharged and after 2-3 years the batteries need to be replaced.

After I installed the Fuel Boss and an Airtex pump I disconnected the Airtex. This set a p code in the ECM and when it was time for the 'smog' inspection it would have failed. The problem was solved by having the relay (load) energized by the ECM and the main power from the PDC. I still run with just the Fuel Boss. The Airtex is a just incase I need it pump. Not all relays are made the same. All ways get a heavy duty high amp than needed relay. If you have a short the fuse will go and not the relay. Some of the relays I work with get very hot in their normal applications due to the amp load and after several years in service the solder will 'flow' off a terminal and open circuit. The same thing can happen when a light duty fuel pump starts to go bad it will increase the amp load in the ECM, increase the heat and degradation of a solder joint. This is another reason to install a fuel pump relay.

I all ways start out doing it this way↑ and if that doesn't work this way will↓

I know the code here says 'no grading is to be done that will cause water run off on to another parcel' but some code violations the city makes money on and the others are to make you think their doing their job. Years ago a home owner in my neighborhood had a similar problem, back yard flooding, other home owner didn't care, city code people worthless and lawyers trying to suck every dime out of her. Some of us got together one Saturday installed a French drain, trenched a drain line from the back yard to the front, cored under the sidewalk and drained all that water into the street gutter. It was faster than the city hacks and cheaper than an attorney. I hope you get this predicament resolved quickly, inexpensively and with minimum aggravation.

I see what you're saying now but why do you need to delay the fuel pump when staring? I think oldbeek was just putting in a regular fuel pump relay My Fuel Boss didn't come with a relay for the backup pump so I wired it like this.

Permatex® Thread Sealant with PTFE ( #80632) will work just fine and less than $10 at Amazon for a 4oz bottle.

In the above diagram, the fuel pump will only work when the starter motor is being engaged and pin # 85 is energized. What else is energizing pin #85 when the starter motor is not being used? Also the ECM is still powering the fuel pump. The diagram below takes the load off the ECM/ECU and puts it on the battery/alternator.

So 220 ohms at sender and infinity reading at the male connector by the left front wheel well. I'd say you have an open circuit and need to repair/replace a wire or two. I don't know if Larry B's carries it or not but for the price of 4 heat shrink solder sleeve butt connector and a roll of 18-16 gauge wire you could have it fixed.

Since the BK/LT BLU wire was at joint connector #1 in the power distribution center I assumed it was battery voltage. After reading this I took another look at the wire diagrams. Pins 15-18 go to ground and that's why there is no voltage. Sorry, that's what happens when I assume. The voltage does come from the PCM Plug #3 pin #26 dark blue/white wire. I was doing an oil change on the truck today so while I was under there I took some readings at the connector by the left front wheel well. With a 1/4 tank of fuel the sender read 164 ohms between the DK BL/WT and BK/LT BL wires. The BK/LT BL wire that goes to ground showed 6 ohms between the female connector and ground at the battery. The DK BL/WT wire from the PCM showed 11.3 volts with key on.

What a trip, what a story! Love, kindness and good fortune was around every corner. Thank you for sharing.

I replace about one radiator a month. Every one is due to a leak in the area of the radiator where the hot water from the engine comes into it. Either the seal between the aluminum core and plastic side tank is leaking or there is a crack in the side tank. Sometimes the neck for the upper radiator hose snaps off. What I find is the plastic there has thinned out and weakened do to the hot coolant. I cut the side tanks from these radiators before I bring them in to the recycler. The only radiators I've seen with some type of blockage are the old copper/brass type that have a calcium/mineral blockage or plastic/aluminum radiator with some type of sealer (Bars Leak) at the bottom. The biggest problem I find is the ph is to high (8.0 ⇧ base) and causing corrosion in the cooling system, cylinder head, and block.

Voltage comes from PCM plug #3 pin #26 to the sender then to pin #17 of the joint connector at the PDC then goes to ground.

A few people on the Volvo forums are using Rotella in the older (1982-1998) models because of the zinc content.

I did the same when I swapped the seats from left to right.

It's most likely the park switch in the wiper motor is going bad.

I've also been known not to listen to my mom. If I lived close by I'd be happy to do it for you. My work van is all set up for it but the 2day drive would be a bit much.

Like my mom all ways said, "Take time to enjoy life because if you die today they (work) will have somebody in your place tomorrow".

I agree with notlimah. I use to do alignments at a shop for a few years. When the specifications call for a setting in tenths of a degree or inches it's impossible to do with a measuring tape and be right on. You can get it close enough to drive but it still will be way off.