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Go here https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation/53_axles-suspension-brakes/adding-inline-power-steering-filter-with-system-flush-r486/

You can put a filter in the return line also.

Now he's crowing again

Just you wait and see Have a happy birthday!

When you had the motor out did you notice any ply in the shaft or damage to the fans as if they had been rubbing on the housing. Are the motor/fans secure and aligned in the housing.

Driving around Mono County in the Eastern Sierra Nevada mountains a couple of week ago and came across these.

PN $54,700+

Could this be caused by a cushion, isolator, or bolt at one of the body to frame contact points?

That Airtex is what I have as a back up/priming pump. When I have used it fuel pressure is 15-17psi at idle and down to 10psi wot.

Same things happen to me.

I have to agree. Why do you want to do that? It's a lot easier swapping titles than it is swapping transmissions.

Did you try asking a mechanic at the dealer?

Sometimes the view is worth not having cell service.

My friends neighbor did it in lime green. Looks good from 40' away. Up close it has that textured look. He must have done it wrong.

You can't have a normal conversation outside my truck. It's just to loud and it's an auto. The factory says to adjust the valves every 150,000 mi.

You have a good point if you're out in the wilderness and no one can hear you but when in an urban area a Snickers and a cell phone will do. In the summer of 73 I had to replace an engine in a Volvo at Greenwood, Delaware. When I was done I put the core engine in the trunk and was driving 8hr to Cumberland, Rhode Island by way of I-95. About 6:00 AM and half way through Connecticut I hear a loud bang, oil light on and in my rearview mirror blue smoke pouring out behind me! I pull over, shut down, and fearing the worst lift the hood to see if the engine had thrown a rod. The sides of the block looked all right so I look under the car and see that the oil drain plug had fallen out. I must not have tightened it very well. While I'm doing this roadside inspection I hear a car stop behind mine and it's a Connecticut State Trooper. The Trooper asks me what the problem is and after telling him what had happened he says "Where are you going to find a drain plug at this time of day around here". Now without thinking I said, "No problem. I've got a spare engine in the trunk. I'll take the drain plug off of that". The Trooper replied laughing "Now I've heard of carrying a spare tire, spare belts and hoses but I've never hear of a spare engine"! With the engine on its side in the trunk I took the drain plug off with a socket and ratchet, installed it on the other engine, filled it with oil and went on my way. I needed a cup of coffee.

Just got back in town after 10 days and doing some catch up. Glad to hear that Mopar Mom is on the mend and moving. All those thoughts and prayers must be helping and a great big thanks to all those friends giving you support on the home front.

In our thoughts and prayers.

I haven't found a battery powered air hammer yet.

I find the home air compressor doesn't produce the volume of air to satisfactorily run air tools. I have a 5.5 HP 25 gal tank compressor in my work van and find that it can't keep up with the demand the tools put on it. I would need an 8-10 HP 60-80gal tank if I wanted to fully utilize the tools with out the wait time to build pressure back up. To over come this problem I'm using battery powered impact tools. My main stay is a Milwaukee 12 volt ¼ drive ratchet along with a Ryobe 18 volt ½ drive impact. I think the Milwaukee 18 volt ½ drive has more torque and I'll get that one next. All my other battery operated tools use the same size batteries so I carry at least two spare batteries of each type with me. The down side to this is remembering to keep the batteries recharged and after 2-3 years the batteries need to be replaced.

After I installed the Fuel Boss and an Airtex pump I disconnected the Airtex. This set a p code in the ECM and when it was time for the 'smog' inspection it would have failed. The problem was solved by having the relay (load) energized by the ECM and the main power from the PDC. I still run with just the Fuel Boss. The Airtex is a just incase I need it pump. Not all relays are made the same. All ways get a heavy duty high amp than needed relay. If you have a short the fuse will go and not the relay. Some of the relays I work with get very hot in their normal applications due to the amp load and after several years in service the solder will 'flow' off a terminal and open circuit. The same thing can happen when a light duty fuel pump starts to go bad it will increase the amp load in the ECM, increase the heat and degradation of a solder joint. This is another reason to install a fuel pump relay.

I all ways start out doing it this way↑ and if that doesn't work this way will↓

I know the code here says 'no grading is to be done that will cause water run off on to another parcel' but some code violations the city makes money on and the others are to make you think their doing their job. Years ago a home owner in my neighborhood had a similar problem, back yard flooding, other home owner didn't care, city code people worthless and lawyers trying to suck every dime out of her. Some of us got together one Saturday installed a French drain, trenched a drain line from the back yard to the front, cored under the sidewalk and drained all that water into the street gutter. It was faster than the city hacks and cheaper than an attorney. I hope you get this predicament resolved quickly, inexpensively and with minimum aggravation.

I see what you're saying now but why do you need to delay the fuel pump when staring? I think oldbeek was just putting in a regular fuel pump relay My Fuel Boss didn't come with a relay for the backup pump so I wired it like this.

Permatex® Thread Sealant with PTFE ( #80632) will work just fine and less than $10 at Amazon for a 4oz bottle.