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Ram recommends the use of a licensed ATF+4® MS-9602 specification fluid for the NV241, NV243, NV244, NV271, and NV273 type transfer case fluid change. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is often used in transfer cases because it handles hydraulic pressure well and works in a wide range of temperatures.

Armature shaft binding when cold. See if tapping on the housing frees it up.

There is a tag in the glove box with the rear end size. If the tag has disappeared, you can call the Dodge dealer's parts or service department and ask for the info from the factory build sheet. This web site has an app to calculate final drive ratio with gear/tire size info. https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

From the first list I carry all but the double ended sockets for lug nuts and the tire plug kit. From the second list I carry some SAE Sockets and wrenches, large pliers, 2' braker bar, and tire inflator. I also carry a cordless ½" impact gun, a ⅜" cordless ratchet and an OBD code reader which I forgot on my last trip and had to borrow one. I carry most of this under the back seat in short cardboard box and the rest in the 5th wheel. My best tool though is a AAA card with premier RV towing.

I can't remember exactly but it's either a 15/16 or 1".

There should be power steering and brakes immediately all though it may be jerky and noise from the system due to the entrained air and slowly go away in a day or two. There is flow so the pump is delivering fluid but is there pressure? I think you have "3. That pressure regulator in the pump has gotten stuck open and even though there is flow the pressure is too low to do the job." If the high-pressure line/hose was blocked there would be very little flow and the pump would be making a noise as if the steering wheel had been turned to full left or right with no let up. You may want to remove the pressure relief valve and inspect it.

May you all have a wonderful Christmas and a Happy New Year

It doesn't matter which return fitting on the pump the power steering or power brake return hose goes to; they both empty into the reservoir there for are interchangeable. As @Tractormansaid there is no benefit adding clear return tubing. I've seen it take 2days for the entrained air to vacate the system so be patient.

I am sorry for the loss of your father; please accept my condolences. The memories he gave you will last a lifetime.

Nice, just what I need for those cold SoCal mornings. A clean switch install. I see it uses a relay, where did you get the power from for terminal 87 and 30, switching power and main power, of the relay?

Thanks for sharing the mods. The vacuum pump that is used is the same type Volvo used for the cruise control in the 240, 740, and 850 models.

Welcome to the site. You've piqued my interest with the vacuum/power steering pumps deleted. Tell more with pictures please.

Since the noise can occur in neutral by increasing the engine RPM 1500-2000 the problem lies between the flywheel and the counter shaft. This would include the clutch disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and input shaft along with the counter shaft. I thinking it could be a loose/broken clutch disk spring, but I keep coming back to the T/O bearing.

Also, this applies a slight pressure to the fingers of the pressure plate so that the clutch disk may not have the full force applied to it and possibly cause premature wear on components. "Keep your foot of the clutch peddle" was empathized when I earned to drive. To hear the noise better have you tried turning the engine off while coasting?

Sounds like a problem with the throw out bearing.

Yes, I thought about adding one to the list. Mike's referring to the time my VP44 took a dump about 20miles from his house and he graciously ordered one from DAP, then came out and helped me change it.

Radiator and heater hoses and I have a Timbo app under the back seat.

I think Diesel Auto Power has a Smarty rental program. https://www.dieselautopower.com/smarty-s-03-rental-sr-s03a

Give Auto Computer Specialist a call. They should be able to help you with your needs. Phone Number: (954) 513-8359

It should work. I'd buy it and have it bench tested as a 99 Ram. All you have to lose is $50+shipping.

When I have a hard time lining up a convertor, I set the transmission into a vertical position and lower the torque convertor on to the shafts, spin the convertor and let gravity pull it into position.

For power splice into fuse #5 (orange wire) in the left side of the dash and ground anywhere that's convenient.

Good to hear and thanks for the feedback.

Dose the rebuilt 2000 engine have a cam shaft position sensor as well as a crank shaft position sensor. Early 2000 blocks had both whereas 2002 blocks only have the cam shaft position sensor.

With engine at idle and operating temperature, with all lights and accessories turned off, measure AC voltage between the alternator's B+ terminal (that's the big stud with the red wire attached to it on the back of the alternator) and the negative battery post. The voltage should be ≤ 0.03.