IBMobile

Do you still get fluid flow from any return line? The pressure relief valve (flow piston) may be stuck open; pull the pressure relief valve that you "hot rod pump mod" on and see if the valve is stuck open dumping the fluid into the reservoir and not building pressure.

O'Rielly 150 amp circuit breaker. https://www.oreillyauto.com/search?q=150+amp+circuit+breaker

You have a point. Thinking a little deeper, if the fuse blows the alternator might just be junk, shorted to ground, and they're not going anywhere anyway.

For major co₂ reduction, population control, and protein production soylent green, in the end, is the answer

This customer can push a reset button but can't turn a wrench there for a circuit breaker not a fuse if that's what you're referring too.

I have used a 150-amp fuse on the last three W-T mods I have done and want to try a circuit breaker on the next one. So my question is which 150 amp circuit breaker did you use that is trouble free and where did you get it.

It was about 50mi west of my house with a magnitude of 3.7 at just after 1am. Everything is fine, didn't even know it happened.

EXACTLY

I have never seen an isolator in the FSM, .

I had a torque converter clutch go bad. I would have 4 gear but the trans temp would run very hot, 260°F.

This tropical storm was not as bad as the winter rainstorms we get here. Total rain 0.43" Wind speed 22MPH. Hilary washed my driveway.

Ohm meter to see if C2/11 is grounded when above 45MPH. Cut OR/BL wire, splice new wire on to end that goes to the PCM, run wire into the cab and attach it to one side of an ohm meter, ground the other led of the ohm meter. Now drife the truck and when the speed is 45+ the ohm reading should be close to zero. Yes. Leave the transmission control relay installed, splice a wire to the OE/BL wire, on/off switch, and ground wire. You may need to install a about a 1000 ohm resister between the switch and ground to get it to work.

The power for the solenoid comes fro terminal 87 of the transmission control relay.

The PCM grounds the torque converter lockup solenoid via the orange/black (OR/BK) wire when commanded. With the key on there should be battery voltage at the PCM connector C2 pin #11. If you ground the OR/BK wire the OD solenoid should be energized and torque converter lockup achieved. I don't see how the B+ terminal is involved with the torque converter lockup.

OK, rain fall 0.06 and windspeed gust 3mph. This weather station is .2 miles from my house. https://www.wunderground.com/weather/us/ca/san-marcos/KCASANMA411

Much ado about nothing here. Predicted 2"-3" of rain with wind 20-30mph. Advised: be storm ready, no unnecessary travel. Reality 0.02" of rain and wind gusts of 1mph. I'll be taking those 55gal drums of the 5er now.

My house is 11mi east of Oceanside.

Well, It's 9PM Saturday and not a drop of rain at my house just north of San Diego.

How about a bike rack at the front of the truck. https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/question-of-the-week/bike-solutions-for-truck-campers/

To find a specific noise I use a rubber hose about 5/16" x 3ft. You put one end against your ear and use the other end to search for the offending sound. The hose can go around conners and behind moving parts with no worries; if it touches a moving part, like the fan, it will be pushed aside with no damage to the part.

The red end to the elbow, the blue end to the wastegate. The manual controller's internal spring is very stiff. I shortened the spring to get a lower psi adjustment. About 30psi is the about the max boost a stock HX35 will produce.

From page 632 of the 2001 ram FSM: REMOVAL (1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. (2) Grasp the body of the door ajar switch with a pair of pliers and move the switch gently back-andforth while pulling it out of the door hinge pillar mounting hole. (3) Pull the door ajar switch out from the pillar far enough to access the wire harness connector (Fig. 3). (4) Unplug the door ajar switch from the wire harness connector. INSTALLATION (1) Install the door ajar switch to the wire harness connector. (2) Push the door ajar switch into the pillar. (3) Connect the battery negative cable

Which wire has 12V at the door pins (switch)? The way I read the wire diagram in the FSM, pages: 8W-44-3,4,5 and 8W-45-10, the switches ground the CTM and headlight switch.

The tan wire art the driver's door is the signal wire for the central timer module to sound the buzzer if the head/park lights are left on with the ignition off. The white wire at both the driver's door and the passenger's door switches go to terminal 13 at the headlight switch and are for grounding the dome light through the headlight switch. The black light blue wire at the passenger's door switch goes to the central timer module for door ajar in the high-line trucks. There is no power, 12V. to any of these wires.

Your door switch wire colors are correct with the black/light green wire at both doors going to ground.