IBMobile

Remove the headliner or the formed fiberboard, that makes it shape, will be cracked/broken.

Had to cut the grass and trim the lawn this weekend.

I think you will find the information which you seek in the links below. https://mopar1973man.com/files/file/215-1999-ram-fsm/ https://mopar1973man.com/files/file/208-atsg-transmission-manual-46re-47re-48re/

That luck for you. Don't go to Vegas. Body parts from a 2ed gen 1500 will fit.

Check the intercooler for some type of restriction performance problem. It may not be sheading heat.

Below is the article on how to fix the PCM ground connectors and splice. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/pcm-ground-splice-repair-r675/?tab=comments#comment-115

I have the left rear tail lamp assembly wire harness for your truck. You can get it at the Mopar1973Man get together this May. See @JAG1for details.

It's in the FSM section 8W-80-40 connector pin outs, page 1053. You'll fined the FSM in the down load section of this web site. https://mopar1973man.com/files/file/215-1999-ram-fsm/

Next time I'm in a pic a part yard I'll try to acquire a used right rear tail lamp assembly wiring harness for you.

Below is a High Line CTM. You can see the two connection points on it. If yours only has one connection point then it doesn't have the Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS).

the PCM in these trucks only will display the Power Train "P" codes. They are not advanced enough or have the capability for body "B" codes. Does your truck have the high-line or premium Central Timer Module (CTM)? The premium CMT controls the Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS). You can identify this type of CTM by it having two wire plug connectors. The standard CTM has only one connector.

No but a simple solution would be to put the dash and VE power on two separate relays that are controlled by the ignition switch.

I have a brand-new Timbo's APP under the backseat just in case it's needed.

I used a piece of 4" triple wall solid drainpipe, about 6" long, that I cut from a pipe I found lying in my yard.

Check for battery voltage from the driver's side battery to the intake air heater relays. If no voltage, check fusible link between the battery and Intake air heater relay. If voltage, turn ignition key to the on position and with "wait to start" light illuminated, test for voltage at grid heaters. If voltage, check air grid heater grounds at air intake manifold. If good grounds then replace air heater grids. If no voltage at air intake grid heaters remove either the 16-gauge yellow/black or orange/black trigger wire from one of the air heater relays and install voltmeter between the that wire and ground. Turn ignition key to the on position and with "wait to start" light illuminated, test for voltage. Test the other air heater relay the same way. If no voltage, then test for voltage at pins number 29 and 47 at the ECM. If no voltage, then the ECM is bad and need to be repaired. If there is battery voltage, then place an ohm meter between the black/tan wires at the air heater relays and ground. If reading is greater than 0-5 ohms check open circuit or bad grounding. If reading is 0-5 ohms air heater relay ground is good and air heater relay needs to be replaced

Don't forget to install the fuse between the alternator and PCM in the blue wire to protect the PCM from damage. This is the article to read and use to help with the installation. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/alternator-and-pcm-protection-r617/

Vehicle Nickname: Cerberus Date Added To The Garage: 2023-02-25 Garage Link: Cerberus

@Threadzy when was your last test? "Beginning July 19, 2021, vehicles identified with illegally modified software will fail Smog Check." During the Cailfornia smog test the OBD2 is connected to an "interrogating computer" which looks for modified programing in the vehicle's ECM/PCM. If your last test was after this date, then the Quad is truly hidden.

YES along with my bhaf and the EDGE Easy. I leave the RV245 injectors in.

The leaks are only get worse over time so yes, fix them when the vp44 is off.

I've seen that happen on a fuel pump. Customer replaced his fuel pump and couldn't get it started because he wired it backwards; reversed the two wires and it ran like a champ.

No need to remove the OEM elbow. The controller works fine with just a new hose connecting it to the elbow. https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Manual-Controller-Install-Repair/dp/B0B5PYG6H3

Boost controller opened showing spring with a check ball, unseen. behind it. Controller mounted on alternator bracket for easy access to change boost setting. It's adjusted for 30psi max boost pressure with an HX35 turbo.

Esey, keep the key in your pocket.