IBMobile

He has finally confessed.

I've heard different vehicle harmonics at various engine/road speeds but never thought about inducing "harmonics" as a deliberate annoyance. Now if you could just get it to play a tune. Let us know the out come.

Sounds like the guy who was doing the dishes in my trailer once.

Great! If my eyesight was better I would be at Camp Nelson. Does the plugin the rock still work for campers?

I have a NAPA starter that has a lifetime warranty. I had to replace it after a few years and the warranty was honored, no cost to me. I keep a copy of all the "lifetime" warranties in the glove box and the originals in a folder, at home, for truck parts/repairs. The warranty/receipt in the glove box method also came in handy when the crank position sensor went bad while I was in Moab, UT. I brought the sensor into O'Rielly's along with the lifetime receipt and the sensor was replaced with no questions asked. When the starter motor is removed you'll be able to check and clean a ground that is on the side of the block.

Can you call the dealer with the vin# and get a part number?

Top heavy describes it nicely.

Small world, so cool.

When checking for codes be sure the readiness monitors are set and in the "green". Your code reader will indicate if they are set. Monitors not set will be an automatic failure. I've found that it takes 3 drive cycles of 25 miles each, to reset them after clearing codes or reconnecting my batteries.

Below is paraphrased from the official CA smog check handbook. Inspections vary from state to state. Open the hood and do a visual Inspection. To pass inspection, the required emission control system(s) must be complete and installed in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer’s original California or Federal certified configuration, or, when applicable, in accordance with a CARB aftermarket configuration. If any required emission control systems are found to be tampered or defective, the vehicle shall fail the inspection. Inspect crankcase emission controls: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) – Gasoline/Diesel, Crankcase Depression Regulator (CDR) – Diesel, Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) – Diesel, Any other crankcase control system Inspect exhaust gas after-treatment system: Catalytic Converter(s) – Gasoline/Diesel, Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC or OC) – Diesel, NOx Adsorber – Diesel  Periodic Trap Oxidizer (PTOX) – Diesel, Diesel Particulate Filter(s) (DPF) – Diesel, Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) – Diesel, Any other exhaust gas after-treatment system. Visible Smoke Test: • Idle Test - Observe the tailpipe exhaust plume of the vehicle for 10 seconds. • Crankcase Test - Observe the engine crankcase for 10 seconds. • BAR Snap Test - Quickly push-and-release the accelerator pedal from idle position to between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM, then immediately allow the engine to return to idle. • Enter the test result into the EIS or OIS. • Document any failure on the Vehicle Inspection Report, and the customer’s invoice Malfunction Indicator Light (OBD I and OBD II: To check MIL function, the inspector shall turn the ignition to the “key on engine off” (KOEO) position, observe the MIL operation and then start the engine “key on engine running” (KOER). The MIL should illuminate in the KOEO position and extinguish when the engine is started and in the KOER position. A brief period of illumination during start up is normal. Always follow the EIS or OIS prompts to enter test results. Pass/Fail Criteria: • A “Pass” entry indicates that the MIL properly operates, and service or repairs are not needed. • A “Fail” entry indicates that the MIL does not illuminate at all in the KOEO position, or the MIL illuminates continuously or flashes with the engine running during the functional test of the MIL. OBD II Functional Test: Follow the EIS or OIS test prompts to connect the EIS or OIS test lead to the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC). Pass/Fail Criteria: The EIS or OIS may include an assessment of the OBD II system’s ability to communicate, the readiness of system monitors, diagnostic trouble codes, vehicle identification, existence of system modifications and the MIL command status.

@W-Tis right about the Smarty not leaving a "foot print". I just got back from talking to Scotty, the owner of North County Smog and Repair in San Marcos, CA, about the Smarty. He said set stock setting, remove the Smarty, and drive 50+ miles and you'll be good. He also said that he's smoged a few trucks that have not been brought back to stock. They failed and had to go to the state referee

The connector on the left is C126 and the connector on the right is C125. Below are the wire pin out diagrams for C125 and C126.They are the same for 1999 and 2001 in the FSM.

The engine wire harness part numbers for model years 1998.5, 1999, 2000, and 2001 with manual transmissions are all different. 1998.5......05611436AA 1999..........05014177AA supersedes to... 56045480AC 2000 up to 12/23/99.......56045319AD 2000 on and after 12/23/99.....56045319AE 2001-2002 up to 1/7/02.......56045904AB 2001-2002 on and after 1/7/02........56045904AC

I too agree with @wil440that a rebuild may not be necessary. I've done a few oil in the coolant over the years, we call it a chocolate milkshake. the best, cheapest cleaner for the cooling system is Dawn dish detergent. Drain contaminated coolant remove thermostat and add 1-2oz of Dawn per gallon of water, run engine at idle for 15-20 minutes. after reaching running temp. Repeat this until water is clear.

It can be done using two relays and the factory OD switch. I drew up rough schematic on the back of an envelop while having my afternoon coffee. If your interested I can draw up a more detailed schematic an post it.

You can install another push button switch in the shifter and use it to trigger the relay. I've installed one in my truck as well as @JAG1truck. Here is how to do it. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/52_transmission-transfer-case/diy-lockup-switch-install-into-gear-selector-arm-r384/ Use an on/off switch. Take power from any hot, with key on, wire under the dash and install a 2-3 amp fuse in it. Run that wire to the shifter on/off switch that you installed. From the on/off switch run a wire to the PCM and connect it to terminal 86 of a mini relay that you can install in an empty slot. Run a ground wire from terminal 85 to ground. There is a blank spot in the PCM for an extra fuse. Run a wire from the fuse to terminal 30 on the relay and a wire from terminal 87 to the fan motor. See the article "Installing Protective Lift Pump Relay" in the fuel section , it has a lot of what your looking for. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/59_fuel/installing-protective-lift-pump-relay-r501/?tab=comments#comment-55 If your looking for the fan to come on automatically when OD is locked out, and your towing, that can be achieved, I think, with 2 relays and no switch needed unless you want one added for more control . I'll have to draw up a diagram later to see for sure.

Where are you putting all this stuff?

It's about a 3hr drive from Maryville to Greenville. Good luck and let us know.

@Andyba20 I think I found a door that will work for you. It's in Greenville, SC. https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/inventory/greenville-1212/ Type Ram into the search bar and It will the 5th truck on the list.

Storing the trailer there all winter for $75 is such a good deal. The campground we go to gets so much snow the trailer roofs could collapse and there is danger of avalanches, there are signs posted on the road. They will store your trailer in the town of Bridgeport during the winter months for $1.75 per foot per month, plus towing fees between the campground and town if you want them to do that for you. Your trailer would cost $63/mounth or $441 for the winter months plus towing. View looking north from the campground in May

That's a really good deal. The campground we go to charges $750/month which includes water, sewer, and electricity. People line up days before the campground opens, the last week in April, to get a spot for the summer.

Good for you. I like to call that a summer house without all the problems of having one; no mortgage, property tax, house insurance, etc. Where is the camp ground located? How long is your season? How much do they charge a month and is the electricity included? That trailer is 36 ft long with 3 slides and only weighs 9700lb with a 2200lb capacity is pretty good.

NO, look at it as a donation to the site. Unplug the connector for the bed wire harness between the cab and bed, like Mike suggested, then test at the end where the trailer plugs into the bed by the license plate. The problem could also be in your trailer wiring.

@Mopar1973Man The left tail lamp wire harness is in the mail. You should get it on Monday 4/17.

Here you go.