IBMobile

Will do. I'll even take pics of them and post them here. Ya, my wife's so hot she uses a smoke alarm as a cooking timer.

Don't believe everything you read on the internet. It wasn't me...she said that they were professional Indian rain dancers.

There was dye in the system already from previous repair attempts and the dye lasts forever in the system. The dye will circulate through the system, when first introduced, with in 10-40 minutes of run time. Do not add any more dye. There has been plenty of elapse time for a leak to show. If there is a leak at a connection it would have shown. The evaporator cannot be seen without taking it out of the HVAC case; An electronic leak detector works best for this area checking at the end of the drain tube ao the dash vents with the fan on low speed. Another place to check is the front of the condenser in front of the radiator. It could get a pin hole leak from road debris striking it. The front compressor seal is hidden behind the pully/clutch; look for dye staining at the front bottom of the compressor where the pully is mounted to it.

I pulled my seat heaters out when the seat bottoms were recovered. Don't need them in southern California. I still have them in a bag somewhere.

... We're saving you for a human sacrifice to the fishing gods...

Even here in the colonies the Queen was admired. She will be missed.

"bit my arm of" British slang meaning overly excited to get something. Next time add 10% and call it a 'Fuel Surcharge". You can always go down in price. "which is pants" British slang meaning rubbish; something worthless. Your tax money at work.

The dye mixes with the PAG refrigerant oil and lasts forever. At the point there is a leak there will be fluorescent staining from the dye. Glasses with UV light or sniffer are best. Soap and water is hit or miss method. what @01_Cummins_4x4 said. This method would work the best.

That shows that the static high and low sides pressures have equalized and there is enough pressure to close the low-pressure switch and energize the clutch coil. I check temperature output with the engine speed at 1500 rpm, temp to max setting, fan speed at medium, doors and windows closed with thermometer in the center vent. That will not fix your problem. You have a good size leak, and your system is low that's why the clutch keep coming on and off. Since dye has been added to the system with the special glasses and UV light look at all the fittings, front compressor seal (between the compressor body and pully), and condenser for leaks. If no leaks found at these areas, then the evaporator becomes suspect. Check the water drain for the evaporator for any telltale sighs; you may need an electronic leak detector placed at the end of the drain for this. Below is one of the pressure charts I use.

Glad you got it running.

You would think the ECM is good with the wait to start light coming on and th VP is good. It's back to checking the wire and connections.

Or the Pacbrake controller had some type of feedback on the data line and took out the ECM.

You can go to the article section an get the ECM and PCM wire diagrams. Someone else may have the volt/ohm values for the system. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/2001-engine-wiring-map-r392/ I looked up the wire diagram for a C44075 kit with 47RE. Those connectors are for the transmission TCC and OD solenoids along with the OD switch. They would not keep the truck from starting. The only thing that interfaces with the ECM is the data link connector.

On a side note, Pacbrake recommends using their "Exhaust Brake Maintenance Lube" part number C18073. You can find it on eBay for between $18 and $26 ($4.5-$6.5/oz) for a 4oz bottle. I did some research with Material Safety Data Sheets and found Super Lube "Multi Purpose Synthetic Oil" was the same lube. You can go to Home Depot and get a 32oz bottle of Super Lube "Multi Purpose Synthetic Oil" for $23.68 ($0.74/oz) and go to a hobby store and buy a 4 pack of 4-5oz squeeze bottles, for a few dollars, to apply the oil with. I all so added an on/off switch in the red wire with the 3amp fuse that goes to the ignition source. This is so I can control the air compressor/e- brake not to come on as soon as the ignition to turned on.

That's what I would do given it ran fine before installation of the e brake.

Tripple check th Tripple check the wires you tapped or cut at the PCM during installation. It's easy to get them confused.

@Auto Computer Specialist You will find them in the Vendor, Dealers and Classifieds section.

Don't get me started. This assault on world democracies started on a global scale well over 140 years ago. Look at what the liberal/progressive/communist coalitions have done to France, Germany, Portugal, Canada, and England to name a few. We're circling the drain with the rest of them. I won't talk about Italy, that country hasn't been right since the last Roman emperor Romulus Augustulus was overthrown in 476AD.

The other 10% are driving a Prius. All is forgiven

Would that be a type of parts counter worker skills test?

One of our camping friends, Dave, has a 4-cylinder Ranger, forgot what year, with 2 sparkplugs per cylinder. He had a misfire and it set a code P0303 misfire #3 cylinder. "Sure Dave, I'll just replace the sparkplugs and plug wires". Right side wires and plugs took about a half hour with compression test. Left side was over 3 hours to do, what a pain.

He'll ask if you want an order of fries with those sparkplugs.

@Vinster_Beta, Get the pipes to the cooler too.

That's where my temp sensor is located also. This location informs me how hard the transmission is working before cooling/heating influences the readings. As for which heat exchanger to buy, I haven't had any experience with replacing mine, but others here have and will give quality info on the subject.