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In this article is a section on testing the AC clutch

You can go to a battery supply shop. The kind that sell just car, truck, RV and stand by batteries. They have all the cable ends and cable you need. The will either sell you the material to make your own or make it up for you. The cable ends that you are showing are about 60¢ each at the shop I go to. Try Pacific Power Batteries. There is Batteries Plus Blubs, they do repairs on small things and may have the supplies. .The solder to use on the cables is 60/40 tin-led (SN-PB) rosin core type. I use a butane micro torch to heat and solder the cables and terminals together. Before I solder the terminals on to the cable I orientate them as how they will be when fitted so there is no twist in the cable. If you're going to use heat shrink slide it on the cable first and at least 6'' from the end before soldering. Do the soldering like @01cummins4everposted and you'll be golden.

Right now, about 20 miles from here, there are 8 Ram 1500 in the wreaking yard but it's rare to find a 2500/3500 there. A lot of the parts from the 1500 will work on the 2500/3500 models. You can always find a nice after market trans cooler or part you can use off of a Ford, Chevy, or Volvo that you can adapt for something. https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/LKQ_Pick_Your_Part_-_Oceanside-286/recents/

But it's more fun walking around a wreaking yard looking for that hidden treasure and getting ideas for that next project are priceless.

The sealing washers for the return line at the back of the head is part number 05015576AC and the part number for the sealing washers at the VP44 in let is 05016555AA. So, is the sealing washers the same size both being 14mm or is the back of the head return sealing washer a 12mm?

@Dynamicincludes an HD SFI 29.1 rated flex plate with the " Stage 2" Transmission build package.

That's 10 minutes from my house where I got a degree in construction management and where my wife retired from. I had a BIG piece of cardboard over the dirt with a smaller piece of plywood for the jack to roll on. Right after I separated the trans from the engine, my jack handle got stuck, between the bracket for the drive shaft center support and the bed of the truck. I could not move the jack back or move it forward so I stared letting it down while trying to clear the transmission cooling line that was hanging there. The transmission was almost down so I moved it back a little on the jack to help clear that cooling line. The transmission falls off the jack on to its' right side and trans fluid starts pouring out. I slide out from the left side of the truck, run to the right side and try to rotate the trans to the left. I try to rotate the trans but it rolls further to the right pinning my right forearm while all the while ATF is pouring out and flowing towards me. Some how I managed, with my left arm, to lift the transmission high enough to remover my, now ATF covered, right arm from under the transmission. Now, with the transmission off the jack and up righted I find out it won't clear the frame by at least 3" so back to jacking up the truck and then dragging it out. The next time the transmission has to come out I'll go have a root cannel and have someone else pull it.

I have the non-sport head lights, one blub per side, and drive with just the low beams and factory driving lights on. I find that with the high beams on there isn't a good side of the road illumination. I read that the 9007 and 9107 gives a better light beam due to the filament orientation is placed 90° to that of the 9004 and 9104 blub but are used only in the sport headlamp assemblies. The next time I go to the wreaking yard I'll pull the wires for the 9007/9107 blubs and give them a try.

It calls for a "container" of friction modifier and the container is 4 oz. but there are larger containers available. You can purchase it at these fine retailers. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopar-4318060AC-Limited-Addit of ive/dp/B000TTEX8W https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/lubegard-4125/chemicals---fluids-16461/maintenance-chemicals-16867/grease---lube-16582/gear-oil---additives-16905/gear-oil---additives-19589/235bd5f02420/lubegard-mixture-limited-slip-friction-modifier/42851/4409964/2000/dodge/ram-2500?pos=1 https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/gear-oil-additive/k-w-products-7-oz-posi-trac-gear-oil-additive/17352_0_0

I've been using the same 9104 blubs (80/100w) with stock wire harness and no relays for the past 15years and have had 0 problems.

I think the spray on bed liner that's used in California is not the same as what's used in the other states; it has to be CARB approved. My friend worked at a place that puts large utility boxes on trucks like a Freightliner to make them into heavy equipment field service trucks. All the spray on liner they used was smuggled in the empty utility beds that came from out of state. Today I was at a roofing supply store and inquired about a product. I was told can't get it here, "not CARB approved".

The "Automatic Transmission 47RE" chart also gives a tightening torque for the "bolt, torque convertor" of 35 ft. lbs.. If the tightening torque is 105 ft. lbs. for eight bolts holding the flex plate to the crankshaft then you would think the 35 ft. lbs. of torque on the six bolts holding the flex plate to the convertor is to low.

See if this will work for you.

The o-rings on the back of the head for the fuel return line have a factory part number 05015576AC and the dealer has them here for $9.38 each. Does any one know where to get them other than the dealer?

When looking up the tightening specification for installing the bolts that hold the flywheel or drive plate to the crankshaft I found two different values. In the engine section under "Crankshaft Oil Seal - Rear" the tightening torque given is 101 ft. lbs. In the "Automatic Transmission 47RE- Torque Specifications" chart the number given is 55 ft. lbs. One of these is a mistake; which one is right?

You're filling me with confidence.

Yes, it's been shipped and a copy of the bill of lading is tucked under the first strap and bar code labels are on each strap. 3X4 pallet I got for free from Escondido Volvo. @JAG1 was busy building a house. The next time I think about pulling a transmission on may back in the dirt somebody come by and slap me. I'll be putting it in at a shop near here.

On its' way to @Dynamic for a "Stage 2" rebuild with a Goerend convertor.

Don't get me started about the apostolate of the new religion of the left. Does it look like this? I've seen you do it that's why I have to hide them when you come over for coffee at camp.

There are 2 or 3 roofing supply companies here in San Marcos I'll be going to check on this type of product. I still haven't reroofed my 5er do to not having the time and the temps here being in the 90s just about every day. If it looks doable I might put it on and try it out. If it doesn't work I'll replace the roof like I was going to do in the first place.

That's way I haven't retired yet, it helps keep the prices low.

Is this the type of polyurethane you're talking about? https://lexiscoatings.com/polyurethane

That sucks!!! Was it a bad gauge or to much pressure.

What was the "stuff"?

OPFTL.....Old People Follow Tail Lights is my motto. When I do venture out after sunset I use my 9104 light blubs with stock head lamp assemblies and wiring. The low beams (80 watts) with the stock driving lights are good enough for me..