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Case in point, When the torque convertor lock up failed in my transmission I noticed the temperature elevated from a cruising normal of 160°-170°F to 190°F and when going up long 6% grades, 5-8 miles long, the temperature would rapidly increase from 190°F to 250°F. After stopping half way up a grade and running the engine with the transmission in neutral the temperature would keep increasing, sometimes to over 280°F before it would start to cool. It would take up to 20 minutes to cool to 190°F. If the temperature probe was in the oil pan I would have never seen that rapid temperature increase due to cooling from the heat exchangers and temperature dilution when mixed with the cooler fluid in the pan. There could have been a good chance of the transmission being cooked before the temperature sensor in the transducer saw the overheat problem and turned the warning light on in the instrument cluster. NOTE: The temperature sensor is in a part of the valve body, just before the governor solenoid, and sees very little fluid flow.

This is the line, on the side of the engine, before it enters the first cooler.

Take the money you would dump into this project and invest it. When you retire you will be able to buy one of the new electric trucks, because diesels will be banned by then, and pay cash.

YES, the ECM uses the same sensor inputs.

Can you have something fabricated that would bolt under the back seat? Say 28gauge sheet metal with a hinged top, line it with felt and add hold down Velcro straps to keep the guns in place. Incorporate the lock style of your choice.

Test the power brakes. Is there still assist for power brakes from the hydroboost? If good then pump is OK and problem may be in steering box.

In 1977 I was driving a 1968 Camaro home to fix a leaking head gasket with steam coming out of the pipe. About a half mile from home, where I was going to pull the heads, I get pulled over by the CHP. He said I was putting out excessive smoke. After 10 minutes of telling him the difference I convinced him it was steam and not smoke. Cops only know, like the rest of use, what they've been taught. Who said she was going to be elected.

Before starting any modifications to increase line pressure let's first see if what was discussed on TDR has any merit. My torque convertor lock up clutch went bad and I sent it to @Dynamic for a tear down and rebuild. Since I use my lock up switch all the time it would be very informative to hear what he thought of why the lock up clutch failed. Slowing is when there would be low line pressure and the best chance for slippage. One would think that if line pressure is low enough for torque convertor clutch slippage then shouldn't the other clutches and bands also experience some degree of slippage?

I'm glad it was easy for you to do and it worked first off. I like where you put that toggle switch and "system on" light. I get the most use out of the lock up when going down hills in 3ed but now that Dynamic has reworked my valve body I'll be using it in 2ed too. That switch is about the same size I used for the grid heater control.

The flex plate that @Dynamic includes in his "Stage 2" build showed up in the mail yesterday. It feels like it weighs all most twice a much as the stock flex plate on the right. I installed it this afternoon and tighten the bolts to 105 ft.-lbs.. The transmission should be at my friend's shop tomorrow afternoon and installed, hopefully, by tomorrow night.

I installed a York compressor with a tank setup in a 2004 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L back in 2006. He was getting this Jeep ready for rock climbing and playing in the desert and want to be able to air up his tires as needed. It worked all right for that. Volvo also used York compressors through 1984, In my work van I have a 5HP/30gal compressor which I hardly ever use. I mostly use battery powered tools now.

What @Gregturley said is how it works. Don't push any button or switch and it's the factory setting.

In this article is a section on testing the AC clutch

You can go to a battery supply shop. The kind that sell just car, truck, RV and stand by batteries. They have all the cable ends and cable you need. The will either sell you the material to make your own or make it up for you. The cable ends that you are showing are about 60¢ each at the shop I go to. Try Pacific Power Batteries. There is Batteries Plus Blubs, they do repairs on small things and may have the supplies. .The solder to use on the cables is 60/40 tin-led (SN-PB) rosin core type. I use a butane micro torch to heat and solder the cables and terminals together. Before I solder the terminals on to the cable I orientate them as how they will be when fitted so there is no twist in the cable. If you're going to use heat shrink slide it on the cable first and at least 6'' from the end before soldering. Do the soldering like @01cummins4everposted and you'll be golden.

Right now, about 20 miles from here, there are 8 Ram 1500 in the wreaking yard but it's rare to find a 2500/3500 there. A lot of the parts from the 1500 will work on the 2500/3500 models. You can always find a nice after market trans cooler or part you can use off of a Ford, Chevy, or Volvo that you can adapt for something. https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/LKQ_Pick_Your_Part_-_Oceanside-286/recents/

But it's more fun walking around a wreaking yard looking for that hidden treasure and getting ideas for that next project are priceless.

The sealing washers for the return line at the back of the head is part number 05015576AC and the part number for the sealing washers at the VP44 in let is 05016555AA. So, is the sealing washers the same size both being 14mm or is the back of the head return sealing washer a 12mm?

@Dynamicincludes an HD SFI 29.1 rated flex plate with the " Stage 2" Transmission build package.

That's 10 minutes from my house where I got a degree in construction management and where my wife retired from. I had a BIG piece of cardboard over the dirt with a smaller piece of plywood for the jack to roll on. Right after I separated the trans from the engine, my jack handle got stuck, between the bracket for the drive shaft center support and the bed of the truck. I could not move the jack back or move it forward so I stared letting it down while trying to clear the transmission cooling line that was hanging there. The transmission was almost down so I moved it back a little on the jack to help clear that cooling line. The transmission falls off the jack on to its' right side and trans fluid starts pouring out. I slide out from the left side of the truck, run to the right side and try to rotate the trans to the left. I try to rotate the trans but it rolls further to the right pinning my right forearm while all the while ATF is pouring out and flowing towards me. Some how I managed, with my left arm, to lift the transmission high enough to remover my, now ATF covered, right arm from under the transmission. Now, with the transmission off the jack and up righted I find out it won't clear the frame by at least 3" so back to jacking up the truck and then dragging it out. The next time the transmission has to come out I'll go have a root cannel and have someone else pull it.

I have the non-sport head lights, one blub per side, and drive with just the low beams and factory driving lights on. I find that with the high beams on there isn't a good side of the road illumination. I read that the 9007 and 9107 gives a better light beam due to the filament orientation is placed 90° to that of the 9004 and 9104 blub but are used only in the sport headlamp assemblies. The next time I go to the wreaking yard I'll pull the wires for the 9007/9107 blubs and give them a try.

It calls for a "container" of friction modifier and the container is 4 oz. but there are larger containers available. You can purchase it at these fine retailers. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopar-4318060AC-Limited-Addit of ive/dp/B000TTEX8W https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/lubegard-4125/chemicals---fluids-16461/maintenance-chemicals-16867/grease---lube-16582/gear-oil---additives-16905/gear-oil---additives-19589/235bd5f02420/lubegard-mixture-limited-slip-friction-modifier/42851/4409964/2000/dodge/ram-2500?pos=1 https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/gear-oil-additive/k-w-products-7-oz-posi-trac-gear-oil-additive/17352_0_0

I've been using the same 9104 blubs (80/100w) with stock wire harness and no relays for the past 15years and have had 0 problems.

I think the spray on bed liner that's used in California is not the same as what's used in the other states; it has to be CARB approved. My friend worked at a place that puts large utility boxes on trucks like a Freightliner to make them into heavy equipment field service trucks. All the spray on liner they used was smuggled in the empty utility beds that came from out of state. Today I was at a roofing supply store and inquired about a product. I was told can't get it here, "not CARB approved".

The "Automatic Transmission 47RE" chart also gives a tightening torque for the "bolt, torque convertor" of 35 ft. lbs.. If the tightening torque is 105 ft. lbs. for eight bolts holding the flex plate to the crankshaft then you would think the 35 ft. lbs. of torque on the six bolts holding the flex plate to the convertor is to low.

See if this will work for you.