IBMobile

No, I don't. The last time I hade a book like that was in 2004.

The hood, left and right door and fender part numbers are the same for 1997 and 1999 so the cab will be the same.

Now is the time for a BHAF.

Had my left hip replaced on February 4. It was so easy that I was out looking at cars after 3 weeks and working a week after that. I still don't want to be on a roof when I'm 70 something doing this job.

That's it in a nut shell. It's tough to heal a broken hip when your 77. Would you have to "burp" it before snapping it shut.

I looked at 2 call out sheets and found that the sealants were what they call Easealent-Urethane, Easilicone , and Easilicon adhesive. Is this what you're talking about. I'd love to be able to just lay down a seal coat but with the age of the rubber roof (17 years), sub straight damage,and not having to do this when I'm 75 I'm leaning towards full replacement starting in August after a camping trip with the grand kids. In the mean time I'm gathering all the info I can about materials and technique for this project.

You have a side mount B+ terminal and need this type of diode pack. A rear B+ terminal alternator looks like this, with this type of diode pack.

Ram 1500, 2500, 3500 cab, doors, hood, grill, fenders, and interior parts are the same. Suspension, brakes, and drivetrain are a different animal. , I go to the pic-a-part yards, there are 5 of them with in 50 miles of me, all the time. You can find Ram 1500 all the time but 2500/3500 are rare, they're V10s and no diesels In SoCal there is very little rust on these parts due to no snow/salt on the road and no flood damange.

This may help show the difference.

Yea, I used the Eternabond sealing tape and every year inspect the roof and put some of that Dicor self leveling sealant on it and no new leaks there.

Thanks for the replays. I thought about doing a roof coating but there is a small tear in it about 3" long and about 2" back of the front cap on the right side. It's been there since around 06 with a patch but there is wood rot in the plywood just under that area that should be fixed. I'm thinking I should do a full replacement while I can still climb a latter and have friends that can still help.

How far off RT 395 it that?

We drove through there 2 weeks ago on our way home from Bridgeport, CA. Still lots of snow in the Sierra Nevada mountains. They expect skiing at Mammoth Mountain to go till August.

I need to replace the roof on my 5er and plan on doing it myself with help from friends. The local RV shops around here want $5k to start "and it could go up from there". Right now it has an EPDM rubber roof; so has anyone replaced theirs, what did you use, and how hard was it todo?

Owens Valley, CA?

Going back there last week of July with the grandkids and for 10 days starting October 2.

I'd be looking for an axle swap. Be a lot cheaper if you do it yourself. I pull my 5th wheel up those grades, Sherwin and Conway, two to three times a year. I just lock out over drive, lock up the torque convertor, set the cruise control to 50-55, and let the truck do it thing.

To get into JAG1's place you have to go along his 1/4 mile driveway that has an 11% grade in it. Then once your there you have to turn around. We camped here for 3 nights. Below, we are getting ready to leave for Bridgeport, CA I've met your wife and she's a sweet lady. If she's slapping you it's just to tenderize the chicken.

I'd give it a try.

I carry a bottle of aspirin. When I brake down I take two and call my self in the morning. I also carry a cellphone, a AAA card with RV towing for 200 miles and a credit card with a big limit. A lot of places I travel through have no cell service like when I broke down north of Riggins, ID and the Idaho County Sheriff gave me a ride into town to make calls. As for tools, I carry basic tools to replace hoses, belts, starter motor, injection pump along with a test light, digital multimeter, and a OBDII code reader. Which mechanic to call, that's a crapshoot.

Towing 8klbs on the highway I let it shift into overdrive and see trans temps at 65°-71°C. When going up long grades down shift to 3ed and stay at 55 this will keep exhaust temps down. These trucks ride a lot better with weight in the back. Stop and go traffic or going up hills in 1st - 2ed gear the torque convertor can quickly drive up the fluid temp to 100°C. A few weeks ago @JAG1 had me follow him on some back hilly roads while I was towing and the trans stayed in 1st and 2ed; I saw my trans temp hit 121°C.

Wire diagram says "front of engine" and back probe the wires/connectors.. Always check the basics first before condemning the component.

That's just the language the truck speaks. A lot of the European car makers use it. I have a CRP123, my Matco reader does a better job on the Ram trucks. Well, you and I know that an intermittent problem that takes care of its self is a pain to diagnose. Try this, the next time it happens on the road, with out restarting the engine, safely pull over to the side and check for power at the VP, OBD2 connector, ECM, and PCM. You can also do a wire harness shake test with the engine running; this would help in finding a bad splice/loose connection. The other thigs to check are the auto shutdown relay, the fuel pump (VP44) relay and the grounds at the front of the engine (G125) and the ground between the left headlamp assembly and battery on the left inner fender (G100)

Very nice and good luck with it. Don't let JAG1 near it. Do you have a factory trailer hitch with a 7 pin connector? There should be a factory connector for a brake controller under the dash above the and behind the park brake peddle assembly. If the trailer brake controller they gave you will plug into it you'll be golden. You might have to get a connector to make it work. A couple of weeks ago I took one out of JAG1's work truck.

Use to see that all the time here in the San Diego area. Now they just jump the fence and yell "asylum". They get a court date with a judge in 2 years. Do you think they show up?