IBMobile

Glad to hear it was that easy to fix, happy motoring. That sensor is used to monitor the flow of exhaust gas by the increase in heat when the gas is flowing to the intake manifold. When the EGR valve is commanded open and there is no increase in temp then the check engine light is turned on and P code is set, This is an automatic fail in Cali.

Unless you think you can beat the system like this greedy knuckle head tried to do and end up with federal charges. https://www.sandiegouniontribune.com/news/courts/story/2019-04-11/san-marcos-based-portable-toilet-executives-face-new-federal-charges

After 9 1/2 years he couldn't recall. One other problem that has been going on for about 6 months is the torque convertor draining over night and takes about 2 seconds for reverse to engage then up to 5 seconds for 1st to engage after backing up; it's ok the rest of the day.

I fabricated an L bracket out of sheet metal and used it to mount a pump to the frame just before the tank. You can see the screws with fender washers holding the bracket to the frame rail. This is a set up for the Fuel Boss system priming pump.

If you can get the idle fixed then drive it till it drops. It would cost you more than $1,000 in the first year on a new car. A quart of oil every 600-800 miles is cheap compared to paying for a new car. Walmart's brand is $12.78 for a 5 qtr. jug.

Keep driving it like that and it soon will be a no speed.

Check it again after a week of driving. Get that EGR problem taken care of first so it's drivable..

I don't know. It was replaced 11/09 with 63,500 mi (46,000 miles ago) when the trans was rebuilt. I'll try to find out.

A leak down test is the tell all. If you have a broken ring or bad valve it will show up here. That looks like oil deposit fouling on that plug. A stuck open EGR will cause a rough idle and stalling as well as a cracked EGR pipe between the valve and intake manifold. Check for fault code like P0401. If you had a leaking injector then there would be a code for a bad injector, to rich, or to lean. A vacuum leak will trigger a to rich code.

Transmission acted up yesterday afternoon for a short time. After road testing for 4 miles it happened 3 times in a row then no more. Road tested again last night with out a reoccurrence. It would only not 2-3 up shift during full throttle acceleration. If throttle is backed off then up shift happens. Governor pressures when problem occurred: MPH PSI RPM 0 2-4 800 45 56 2800/2ed gear When shifting is normal: 0 0 800 45 92 3400 2-3 shift at full throttle

I've seen a water cooled Mitsubishi turbo glowing red on a Volvo after a hard pull up a long grade. That turbo had over 400K miles on it with no cool downs before I changed it out with a used cartridge.

Some ac manufacturers have up to 5% bypass air built into the system.

The fluid is clean and full with 1,000 miles on it. I don't have a plug on the pan and don't want to pull the pan off for inspection just yet.

Here I am working on it while my girlfriend watches. My next car was a new 1970 Volvo 142S which cost $2850 pulse tax and license.

Thanks for the info above. I believe those pressures are for the line pressure test at the accumulator test port. I am checking the governor pressure at the governor test port. The governor pressure at idle should be 0-3psi and climb 1psi/mph to 30mph. If governor pressure is above 3psi at idle then there is a fault in the governor valve system. If the governor pressure is to low on the road test then there is ether a bad governor pressure solenoid, pressure sensor (transducer), or control module. Since the test pressures fall within parameters I'm going to do more road testing. I hope it was an anomaly and the transmission just needed to be 'exercised' like @JAG1 suggested.

Went to road test the truck today for a transmission problem and the check engine light was on. Installed code reader and had P0230. I forgot that I had pulled the lift pump relay to see if the check engine light would come on. So, on my truck it does.

I installed the 0-130psi pressure gauge and have taken the truck out on two road tests. The transmission is shifting fine at this time. I'm going to keep the gauge on for a few days and drive the truck some more. The pressure readings were taken with my helper, my wife, driving and calling out the road speed. MPH PSI shift 0 0 20 20 1-2 33 40 2-3 45 50 3-4 56 74 convertor locked 65 80 convertor locked

That's what happened the last time I replaced them. When I serviced it 1000mi ago the fluid and pan were clean. Right now I have the left battery box out while doing a new type of grid heater bypass modification. I'll get my pressure gauges on it maybe later today.

Get out of bed and take a leak.

You know when you're old... your prostate is your new alarm clock and it goes off every 3 hours.

I drove the truck for the first time in 4 weeks and started getting a no 2-3 up shift condition. It will up shift when backing off the accelerator. All the other shift points are at the proper speed/throttle position. The transmission speed sensor was replaced 8/8/18 (107,893mi) due to no 1-2 up shift but would start off in 3ed if transmission relay was pulled. Transmission was serviced with front and rear band adjustment 9/1/18 (108,024) then a 1,000mi trip in October pulling the 5er with no problems. The transmission now has 109,362mi. I'm thinking it may be the governor pressure sensor and solenoid. They were replaced about 45k mile ago. Has anyone else seen a problem like this? What say you @Dynamic?

You can check that with and ohm meter but with a volt meter check for stray voltage at the sensors from a bad wire harness.

FCA brand equals FIAT equals "Fix It Again Tony".

Have you confirmed that it is the ECM that is letting the higher voltage into the system? You can disconnect it from the harness and then checking the voltage at the sensors.

Cut a piece off of both ends and take them to the parts house. There they can match the inside diameter of vacuum hose needed for the splice..