IBMobile

The transmission mechanic said the convertor will fill only when the trans is in gear, not park or neutral.

Those power steering line get really hot to the point of giving me a 2ed degree burn and the car hadn't even been driven just idling for 20-25 minutes. I see a lot of different cars and trucks with power steering heat exchangers. That's a good idea to put a small cooler in the system. An inline transmission filter in the power steering return line would help catch that sludge and fine particles.

Yes it will work with an on/off switch but you lose the simple factory switching for those that are AC operationally challenged. The red line shows the original ground path. When you cut the light green/white wire your just changing the ground path (blue line).

Now we know why the chicken crossed the road.

To get the benefit of the hi and lo pressure switches tap into the light green/white wire behind the AC heater control. The wire coming from C134 would be #2 on the 3 way switch. Ground wire would still be #1 on the 3 way switch. The wire going in to pin #2 at the back of the AC heater controller will be #3 on the 3 way switch.

Driving the other day and the transmission would not shift out of 2ed, came to a stop then accelerated and no 1-2 shift. I stopped again and on acceleration 1-2 shift, very delayed 2-3 shift up and normal 3-4 shift. After next stop no 1-2 up shift and it stayed that way. Checked for codes and there were none. Checked shift cable and it had free movement, transmission fluid full but a little dirty (about 25-30k miles on it, pulling 5th wheel most of the time). I pulled the transmission relay and drove around the block in limp home mode and it drove fine. Three codes were set from pulling the relay out but that was to be expected but still no codes for governor solenoid or the transducer. With no 1-2 up shift and no codes the PCM might not be getting a signal from the transmission output speed sensor to know that the truck is moving. So before I put the pressure gauges on I replaced the speed sensor. The sensor cost $17 and removed and installed in less than 5 minutes with a 1" deep socket (have a pan to catch the fluid that comes out). Road tested and all shift points are back to normal. I have since serviced the transmission adjusted the bands. A little fine metal on the magnet and nothing else. One other thing I've noticed is when the truck has sat over night it will take 5-8 seconds for engagement when shifted into drive. I'm thinking torque convertor drain back. The Transmission mechanic say that's normal for a 47RE but I don't remember it taking that long before. What say you? How long does yours take to engage after sitting over night or longer?

It will be a lot easier to cut the dark blue/orange wire at either connector C-130 (which is the connector at the PDC) or the c-1 connector at the PCM. You can then run the two wires into the cab and attach them to the switch with the third wire going to a grounding point. If you try to disconnect the wire from terminal #85 of the ac compressor relay you'll find it to be a big PIA in the PDC.

The first diagram, 8W-42-5.

After looking this over again pin 22 at C3 is grounded through the AC controller and not give full anytime compressor control. The easiest way would be a single poll three position switch installed with the common wire being the dark blue/orange from pin 85 of the AC compressor clutch relay. Position one of the switch the wire going to Ci pin 1 at the PCM, position two is open circuit and position three the wire goes to ground. In number one position there is normal AC control. In number two position the AC compressor will not turn on. Number three position the AC compressor is on all the time.

could be the HVAC blend door cycling back and forth trying to make up its mind.

I have a Mityvac 04000. I attach a hose to the bleeders and suck the fluid into a sealed bottle with the vacuum pump.

It is necessary when replacing an AC compressor the oil in the old compressor needs to be drained, measured and noted. The oil in the new compressor is then drained. The noted amount of oil is add back into the new compressor. Location of orifice tube.

13.8 to 14.1 volts is fine. The voltage output will change with the temperature of the battery. The colder the battery the higher the voltage.

rear tire or driveline? hard to tell? Unbolt drive shaft from rear axle and check the u joints for stiffness or play.

There are several factors in deciding a labor rate that you're paid. Mike has hit on two factors (1) what the local economy can bear and (2) the job time factor. Also, as you said, your skill level is low. Your skill level at this time will limit you in preforming complex repairs. Repair work is rated A, B, C and D. An A rated repair is very complex and requires the most skill, ie: transmission overhaul; and, a D rated repair needs the least amount of skill, ie: oil change. The shop labor rate (for example $160/hr at a Volvo dealership) is based on: what the mechanic is payed, all the hidden federal, state and local payroll / business taxes along with overhead costs and still make a profit. Of that $160/hr, the entry level mechanic at the dealership is paid $20/flat rate hour. So if you are an entry level "independent worker" with no overhead $20-$25/hr is a reasonable rate.

I look in to it a few years back. Some people in Europe were doing it for the VW diesels that had a Bosch VP44 type injection pump but I didn't understand the language nor where they got the new transistors from.

A vehicle with a bad u joint will also have a vibration on hard acceleration and/or with a heavy load. Sometimes a bad u joint will cause a vibration at freeway speed. Can you have someone ride in the bed of the truck and listen while you drive in a parking lot at low speed doing figure eights?

My truck has one. Most of the cars I work on have something similar to it going from behind the bumper to the radiator core support. It is an air guide to direct air over the A/C condenser, radiator and any other heat exchanger there may be out front. It's also used to catch tools and small parts from hitting the ground

Check to see if a wreaking yard has them. They look to be the same for both 2wd and 4wd light and heavy duty 1998-2002 Rams if it's the brake lines from the ABS pump to the junction block. Part #52009390AB left line, #52009399AB right line.

See if this helps

Looking good!! Now you have to cover it with bubble wrap.

No , it shouldn't have come off. I was just flailing around under the hood and knocked it of.

Same thing happened to me when I installed my RV275 injectors. The plastic hose came out of the rubber connector at the vacuum pump. Be carful putting it back in that rubber is old and could tear like mine did then there is a vacuum leak and the vents are slow to respond. I had to replace that rubber fitting with a short piece of rubber hose.

I would be doing it at 8.

There is also another link to rebuild the booster but every time I click on it Cox says they can't find the link. Here it is below. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild