IBMobile

Never mind... I see it now.

Now the rest of your truck is going to be jealous and want a face lift. Don't forget to put the felt isolators on. From whom did you procure it?

The PCM should not have any influence over the regulation of alternator voltage when an external regulator is used but the alternator voltage will have an influence over the PCM. Maybe the external voltage regulator is going/went bad.

I changed out a set of bald 265/75 R16 Goodrich KOs for slightly used 245/75 R16 Michelin a couple of years ago. I use the truck 90% of the time pulling my 5er and have gone on two 7,000 mile trips this last year with this size tire. Yes, the sweet spot for towing with a 4.10 is right around 2,000 RPM. At that RPM I cruse in 4th at 65 MPH indicated. The truck pulls very well when going up hills and I drop down to 3ed, this keeps the exhaust temp down. The change to a 245/75 R16 tire will increase your finale ratio to 4.26 and the speedometer reading at 65 MPH indicated will really be 62.4 MPH https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

The same tools at Harbor Freight cost more and their quality is barely good for a do-it yourselfer. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/refrigeration/3-cfm-two-stage-vacuum-pump-61176.html A mechanic starting out needs to buy quality tools that will last a long time and in tools you get what you pay for.

That's because old people's skin gets thin and they go deaf. I found a TBS list at TDR and didn't see a fix for drain back. https://turbodieselregister.com/tdrarticles/TSB-2012.pdf

NAPA shows 6 thermostats for this engine. Which one? https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=thermostat&referer=search_form-savedveh

I hear that's what happens to old people.

So, is it worth getting an aftermarket thermostat, ie: Stant, Gates, or spend the big bucks and get the Cummins or Dodge?

Yes the pressure switches are utilized. If you look at the wire diagrams just above you'll see the light blue circled area is the same in both. This is where the PCM and switches are joined to the AC dash controller at connector C-130 in the PDC. I tried this on my truck. I removed the HVAC controller to access the wires behind it and when I ground the light green/white wire the AC clutch is engaged all the time, in all vent positions, while the truck is running

In 1976 Volvo switched all 4 and 5 speed transmissions from 90wt and 30wt fluids, respectively, to Dextron ATF due to poor cold shifting characteristics. They kept it that way through 1995. Volvo also called for Dextron ATF in the power steering systems until 2001 when it switches to a "European" ps fluid . For me, I run what the FSM says.

The transmission mechanic said the convertor will fill only when the trans is in gear, not park or neutral.

Those power steering line get really hot to the point of giving me a 2ed degree burn and the car hadn't even been driven just idling for 20-25 minutes. I see a lot of different cars and trucks with power steering heat exchangers. That's a good idea to put a small cooler in the system. An inline transmission filter in the power steering return line would help catch that sludge and fine particles.

Yes it will work with an on/off switch but you lose the simple factory switching for those that are AC operationally challenged. The red line shows the original ground path. When you cut the light green/white wire your just changing the ground path (blue line).

Now we know why the chicken crossed the road.

To get the benefit of the hi and lo pressure switches tap into the light green/white wire behind the AC heater control. The wire coming from C134 would be #2 on the 3 way switch. Ground wire would still be #1 on the 3 way switch. The wire going in to pin #2 at the back of the AC heater controller will be #3 on the 3 way switch.

Driving the other day and the transmission would not shift out of 2ed, came to a stop then accelerated and no 1-2 shift. I stopped again and on acceleration 1-2 shift, very delayed 2-3 shift up and normal 3-4 shift. After next stop no 1-2 up shift and it stayed that way. Checked for codes and there were none. Checked shift cable and it had free movement, transmission fluid full but a little dirty (about 25-30k miles on it, pulling 5th wheel most of the time). I pulled the transmission relay and drove around the block in limp home mode and it drove fine. Three codes were set from pulling the relay out but that was to be expected but still no codes for governor solenoid or the transducer. With no 1-2 up shift and no codes the PCM might not be getting a signal from the transmission output speed sensor to know that the truck is moving. So before I put the pressure gauges on I replaced the speed sensor. The sensor cost $17 and removed and installed in less than 5 minutes with a 1" deep socket (have a pan to catch the fluid that comes out). Road tested and all shift points are back to normal. I have since serviced the transmission adjusted the bands. A little fine metal on the magnet and nothing else. One other thing I've noticed is when the truck has sat over night it will take 5-8 seconds for engagement when shifted into drive. I'm thinking torque convertor drain back. The Transmission mechanic say that's normal for a 47RE but I don't remember it taking that long before. What say you? How long does yours take to engage after sitting over night or longer?

It will be a lot easier to cut the dark blue/orange wire at either connector C-130 (which is the connector at the PDC) or the c-1 connector at the PCM. You can then run the two wires into the cab and attach them to the switch with the third wire going to a grounding point. If you try to disconnect the wire from terminal #85 of the ac compressor relay you'll find it to be a big PIA in the PDC.

The first diagram, 8W-42-5.

After looking this over again pin 22 at C3 is grounded through the AC controller and not give full anytime compressor control. The easiest way would be a single poll three position switch installed with the common wire being the dark blue/orange from pin 85 of the AC compressor clutch relay. Position one of the switch the wire going to Ci pin 1 at the PCM, position two is open circuit and position three the wire goes to ground. In number one position there is normal AC control. In number two position the AC compressor will not turn on. Number three position the AC compressor is on all the time.

could be the HVAC blend door cycling back and forth trying to make up its mind.

I have a Mityvac 04000. I attach a hose to the bleeders and suck the fluid into a sealed bottle with the vacuum pump.

It is necessary when replacing an AC compressor the oil in the old compressor needs to be drained, measured and noted. The oil in the new compressor is then drained. The noted amount of oil is add back into the new compressor. Location of orifice tube.

13.8 to 14.1 volts is fine. The voltage output will change with the temperature of the battery. The colder the battery the higher the voltage.