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I've reused torque to yield bolts on many head gasket replacements and rebuilds on turbo and non turbo gas engines with no problems. Just clean and lube the bolts the way @04Mach1described and you'll be fine.

So you have tried two vp44s and to lift pumps with the same results. I wouldn't fool with them any more but look at hose, fittings and filter housing. Can you run a short fuel line from the fuel pump into a 1-2 gallon fuel can of diesel that's sitting up in the engine bay and try to start. This way you by pass every thing but the lift pump, filter and vp44 and have the fuel gravity feed to the pump.

Years ago the tax man would come by to value your property, land, house, out buildings and vehicles. The property owners would hide there vehicles and even with a big oil stain in the driveway tell the tax man they didn't have a car. So the tax man got smart and got the department of motor vehicles to collect the tax by incorporating it into the registration fees. Now, don't get me started. My blood pressure is still up there.

Nice. The middle of nowhere, doing nothing, between Nirvana and .La La Land. That camper looks some what like @JAG1's.

I too had 265/75R-16 tires and came across a deal for five 245/75R-16 That I switched to the smaller size. I too drive at 65MPH or less and tow 90% of the time. In the last 9 months the truck has towed over 12.000 with only seeing exhaust temp increases going up steep grades like route 16 out of Rapid City, SD up into the Black Hills. I just took it out of overdrive and backed off a hair.

On November 1st of last year the California legislature passed and the Honorable Governor Moonbeam signed a fuel tax increase into law. California now has one of the highest gas and diesel tax in the nation. A 12-cent a gallon increase in the gasoline excise tax. A 20-cent a gallon increase in the diesel excise tax. A 5.75% increase in the diesel sales tax. A new vehicle fee which will increase registration fees by $25-$175 annually depending on the value of the vehicle. A $100 fee added to zero emission vehicle registration cost. In the bill not one cent can go to build new single driver road use roads! It's funds are allocated to various green projects such as new car pool lanes, carbon reduction programs and the like but with the bulk of the monies going to the underfunded government employees retirement fund. California collects enough taxes to pay for the repairs and improvements but waste is the name of the game. On the national average for every dollar a state spends on road repair the state of California will spend $4 to do the same repair This is such an unpopular tax increase that enough signatures have been collected to put a gas tax repeal initiative on the November 2018 ballot.

Bosch is what I use in the Volvo work I do. Not only is it OEM in a lot of the Volvo cars but also in BMW and MBZ. That Bosch fuel pump 044 is all most identical to the Bosch fuel pump 068 that was used for over 12 years as the main fuel pump in the 240, 740, 760 and 940 models. They hold up well with the average replacement at over 180.000 miles. Yes the fuel pressure out put can be over 100 PSI but the fuel pressure regulator positioned after the injectors will control it. On a gas fuel injection system the needed fuel pressure will vary from manufacture and model. For the most part I see the fuel pressure at the low end about 35 PSI and the high at 55 PSI depending on the model and injection system. That type of pump does draw a lot of AMPS so use a 30 amp rated relay with a 25 amp fuse and 14 gauge wire.

They sell those in junkyards. One yard I use to go to was near 30th and Commercial St near downtown San Diego. The whole lot was paved in asphalt and concrete. The environmental people told them they had to put in rain water catch basins along with some other thing so that there would be no hazardous waste run off. They closed that yard down and moved to Chula Vista where the lot is dirt with no run off protection. Most of the yards I go into are dirt and the 'pick your part' places have drain pans you can use to catch coolant or oil but not everyone uses them so there is a mess on the ground. Go figure.

That's page 8W-90-29 of the 2001 factory manual that I edited the pertinent diagram from. I've had mine apart a few times for different projects and I go to auto/truck salvage yards and do a little dismantling. Last Tuesday I was in 2 yards in Chula Vista and on Thursday I was scouring one in Oceanside.

OK. So it's back to 'is the A/C inop at the same time?' and you'll only know that the next time it doesn't work.

Did you mean G 201? When the blower motor doesn't go on, is that ALL fan speeds don't work or does high speed work and only high speed work?.

Glad you made your presence known. It's nice to have another seasoned citizen amongst us who is handy with a wrench.

The fan motor get its' power from the fuse and relay while the A/C system/compressor gets its' power from a different fuse and relay. If both the fan motor and A/C compressor are not working then I'd check their common grounding point at G 201, black/orange wire. The fan resistor only controls the lower fan speed ground paths. The high fan speed ground path bypasses the resistor pack goes through the fan switch and to G 201. If the fan works in highspeed only and not in the lower speeds it's the resistor pack. If the fan does not work but the A/C does, check for voltage at the fan motor and the ohm test the ground from it.

That's an Airtex E7153 fuel pump. It's rated at 55 GPH at 15-30 PSI and it draws 6.5 AMPS.

That 4 gauge cable goes between the alternator's B+ terminal and the positive terminal of the auxiliary battery. The 2/0 gauge cable goes between the negative terminal of the auxiliary and the negative terminal of the main battery. This ties the two batteries together with out using the 0 gauge cable and engine block between them.

Can you run the lift pump without starting or bumping the starter motor by hot wiring it? Get the pump to run on demand by hot wiring it. Get a 3-4 foot piece of 5/16-3/8 hose. Start the fuel pump and using the hose like a stethoscope, with one end in your ear and the other moving along the fuel system, to detect the "sucking noise". When you come to it, the sound will be loud and clear in your ear. Have you checked the flow of fuel after the fuel filter by placing a hose from the filter housing into a container and running the pump?

What @W-T was referring to is if you have a high output alternator (180+ AMP) then join the two batteries with the extra 2/0 cables so that they act as one. This will keep the batteries charged equally and the battery temp sensor does not get an erroneous reading from the main battery. If you have the stock 140 AMP alternator then one extra 2/0 ground cable between the two batteries will do. I have not added that to my truck yet. I did. I think so.

Is the A/C compressor not coming on at the same time when the fan is not running?

I found it in yesterdays newspaper, Hickory Daily Record. Local Chicken Man found on side of road after blowing stuff up.

My 4X2 truck on the left with 245/75R16 on factory rims. @JAG1 4X4 truck on the right.

Then a little after that a little of this

This is how I test a fan clutch. Visual inspection: Is there any staining on the clutch housing to indicate a fluid leak? There should be no leaks. Is the thermostatic coil spring still attached to the front of the clutch and not broken/cracked? Is there any play in the center of the clutch and the mounting nut? There should be no play. Does the fan blades spin freely with little effort, some effort, or great effort? If with little or great effort the fan clutch is bad. Is there any play/roughness in the fan pully bearing? There should be none. Check the condition of the fan blades. There should be no cracks or pieces missing. Operational inspection: Run engine until thermostat is open. Drive if needed. Now with the vehicle stopped and brake set, block the air flow over radiator, I use cardboard. Bring the engine speed up to 1500+ RPM and hold it there. If there is a roaring sound at this stage of the test then the fan clutch is locked up prematurely and should be replaced. When the temperature gauge indicator needle moves to the right of center and is over the 0, remove the cardboard and keep the engine speed at 1500+ RPM. The sudden rush of hot air will engage the fan clutch very quickly, about 30-45 seconds. You will hear a 'roaring' sound as the fan clutch engages and draws large amounts of air over the radiator. The temperature gauge should move back to the center position and the roaring sound subside as the coolant temperature returns to normal. If there is no roaring sound and the coolant temperature does not decline, reduce engine speed to idle then turn engine off. Fan clutch is not locking up and should be replaced. I've seen people check the fan clutch operation by sticking a hose, rolled up paper or some other soft material against the fan blades while the fan is moving. I don't recommend this type of test. If the fan clutch is not engaged the fan will stop spinning when the outside resistance is brought to bear. If the fan clutch is locked up the fan will kick out what ever is put against it and could cause damage or injury.

How is the air flow over the radiator cooling fins, rat nest or other obstructions between it and the intercooler? How is the coolant flow through the radiator cooling tubes. No blockage with calcium deposits or other debris?

Don't drag my coffee into this. We all ready have socks and sandals.

It's on the orange with black stripe at the middle connector (B11) on the PCM.