JAG1

That's good job your doing and I thank you for writing about it. I'm sorry about your hand. I know how it goes sometimes being in construction...... It hurts like a son of a 'B' and then the cold makes it 10 times worse. Are you going to solder the lugs after crimping them on? I always think about how I might melt the cable insulation with too much heat and then also read about soldering the ends of the cables before crimping the new lugs on. What is best?

Make sure factory fuel filter is at 25 ft lbs and not cracked. They sometimes crack if you use the 1/2'' square drive in the center. Better to use the big socket which is 1 1/6th or 1 1/8th when torqueing. After a run check for any wet/ weepage at the high pressure lines. Need to run your fingers around each connection and then check your finger tips for wet fuel. Can't always see it on the lines.

How did the fuel pressure gauge behave after it was started?

Thank you. I did it to my 12 valve mechanical lift pumped truck. Had to buy a small electric pump and got most of it out. I did it at the Taco Bell next door since the service station threatened to have the truck towed even if I push the truck to the back lot. What nice folks, right?!. It was uphill to the Taco Bell but some body builder guys helped me out. Later I found out that the Station got a kick back from the towing company if you got towed. The service station guys did not like those two body builders that got out to help. I never went back to that place ever.

Are you using motor oil on your hinges? A friend sprayed WD 40 on mine but didn't last long. Started to squeak right after about a month. Grease is good but doesn't get between parts so fast.

I don't know a whole lot like most around here but I think that I would simply look into getting an aftermarket tach that will run off the alternator. Might try finding one that is thin or nimble enough to mount discreetly in front of the factory tach.

Nice read John. Thanks, I enjoyed that.

I changed pin and bushings once on my first gen. I opened the door over a two foot ladder and used blocks to support the door in neutral position to help me. The problem was that the new bushings didn't fit snug anymore since the hinge had worn a little too far and bushings were loose. I ended up buying a new hinge. It was almost 200 bucks from LMC but made the door line up and close like a new truck. It was many years since the door had closed and worked so well. I would go for a whole new hinge from my experience, if the hinge holes are the least bit worn.

Its just below the passenger battery, it has a grey connector clipped to the battery tray. It's on the bottom edge facing the alternator and oil filter. A black wire about a number 8 gage wire.

One custard filled Donut brought to my shop and I will put in an unlock switch that will work when you press the left pedal. Me have good coffee too.

There are two engine block grounds also that can help reduce A/C voltage. They should be unbolted and cleaned with sand paper and retightened to the block. One is on the front driver side just above the oil pan and the other is just below the oil filter above oil pan. Follow both battery grounds down to the block and you can find them. The alt. ground connector has the grey connector just below the passenger battery. Make sure all battery connectors are clean and bright will help batteries absorb some of the excess A/C voltage noise away from the PCM and ECM.

Yeah, I heard the shop had full hook ups in the shade with a river to go fishing out back. Some long haired hippy guy did the work and there were fruit trees to eat off of.

No John, not at all. The only thing I am saying is it engine brakes better with it locked and do not understand why some say otherwise.

Both mine are black so if there's thief around he'll steal other color first. Plus they hide better in dark.

I think you guys have it wrong because when my T/C is locked on down hill grades it holds me back better than if unlocked. Going down hill watching the tachometer... it is so nice to NOTto see the T/C slipping and building heat. Locked in going up or down long steep grades is wonderful to get a feeling of something that works for you instead of against you.

IBMobile, are you leaving yours locked from 3rd to 4th when hauling your fifth wheel?

Important to get all new ones pop tested and flow matched. If they recommend just doing number 5 I would find another shop for sure. Do some pricing on your own to make sure they are treating you right on the cost. They should be... their cost a little over 400 bucks for all six. Some others will chime in I hope to give you advice as the biggest problems arise more frequently from shops that do the least amount of work for the money. Watch out if they keep saying how much they are saving you Anytime you get a miss fire it's good to get new injectors first and foremost as you can do the most expensive damage not catching a bad injector.

That is cool ,how long you been doin that?

The problem is leather gets dry and curls up a wee bit in hot sun under the windshield,(kinda expresses what the plastic goes thru). I have used two glues that stay flexible, contact cement used for laminate countertops and clear silicone caulk. The contact cement is better for getting all the edges well, but you have to coat both surfaces and let them get dry (not too dry ) and stick them together. I can't say anything about the water base contact cement under the hot sun. It would be nice to find out that it works because the real hot stuff will get you higher than a kite without the doors open. It can kill you without proper ventilation, but once dry it has no fumes and really holds. A small roller gets the edges and lays it on evenly in a hurry, otherwise tough to handle or spread. The other problem is needing to glue both surfaces when you are overlapping a piece of leather and not wanting to let any glue show. I think a glue that goes together with one coat would be best and then keep the leather wiped down with leather treatment to keep it from curling in the heat.

So its better to take it out of lock up before going to 4th. I will have to start that habit for sure. I thank you guys.

When I let mine shift from 3rd to 4th while locked up it doesn't feel hard on the trans. I smoothly goes into the next gear without grabbing and no clunk. So I shouldn't do that anymore.?

Don't pull down the blinds cause then he knows your ripe to have your lift pump go missing.

I would figure out by testing to see what glue fuses the best with the inner core and then make pieces to go on the back side to sister along side and join up where the breaks or cracks are. I worked on my bezel for about 4 hrs, with the top broken in two places. A new wood grain style bezel cost a lot so I glued a leather top cap all the way across to hide the broken spots. Chestnut color leather looks good and if my dash ever go bad I will glue leather pieces and laminate the whole shooten' match with leather. cause it helps hold it together too. Not sure about it but it seems like a paper machete style work on it in leather will make it right.

I did some repairs on my instrument bezel and found that it is ABS plastic so black ABS glue works well but it shows is the only problem.

On my old 92 I had to eventually change almost all the fuel lines from tank to lift pump. A lot of mine on that 92 where plastic and those where the areas that went bad. When we went to the new Obama fuel I had some leaks develop on a couple sealing washers between banjo bolts. I think that might be what you have going on.