JAG1

Both my 1st and 2nd gens' are stock. What do you guys do to get that nice mellow sound, not loud, that only comes out of a Cummins? Thanks, Mike

That's Indiana Jones... Just call me 'Brittle Bones' if I don't start eating right...

I met a guy hoofin' so fast down the highway I thought, man this guy needs a ride. So I stopped and he got in. He says, yeah I'm just trying to ge tto my car before the repair shop closes. Says, ''Yeah I'm 85 years old''( he looked like he could be 45) He says, I know I look young but it's cause I've been a vegetarian all my life. He he..... he was one healthy looking 85 yr. old guy too. I was amazed

Was surprisingly better yesterday. Not being very active for a couple weeks caught up with me. Now I'm slowly getting back to my old self AGAIN. Amazing how the body can adjust. so incredible when you think about it. Run a search about Coconut oil.... is amazing stuff. I can see it being traded on the market someday..

Has anyone ever experienced a day when after doing something most of your life, it suddenly becomes almost too difficult? Not muscle pain but joint pain! Dang-it this happened to me yesterday... it's like bones just can not take the heavy stuff anymore, and came all too sudden :osh!

Joe, you need to tell the doc there must be something wrong because you should never have to miss that stage when they are about 30'' long as that's the most fun time with them.

Congrats Joe

I wanted to insulate my truck camper wherever there where odd shaped nooks and crannies, but didn't like fiberglass dust. So I cut open some cheap pillows and used that for stuffing. I got it to where the furnace shuts off and stays off for awhile anyways.

CT cummins, there are folks living fulltime in an rv. I've seen them camping in colder climates by using the rigid foam board insulation around the bottom like skirting. Another way is build the shop first, then park the rv inside for winter use. What we did.... bought a single wide mobile home brand new and lived in that while we built. It took 18 months in my spare time with some subs help. The mobile home was still new but sat unsold on the dealers lot for too long. That is how we got a real deal. We paid 18 k for it and sold it for 17 k after 2 1/2 years using it. We did loose the set up fee and trucking to bring it out to our new property but, it worked out fine. If I was to do it over again I would go the rv route but, build the shop first placing it inside. Some folks just build a small apartment in the shop but that usually is bootlegged without a permit. One guy got caught that I know of, wasn't pretty dealing with the county afterward. Final note... Always buy your rv with heated tanks from the furnace. It is all enclosed on the rv bottom for the holding tanks to have ducted heat coming from the furnace.

Your the luckiest guy today Joe. Prayers sent.

Thank you MnTom, It was as you suspected that the brake booster was causing the brakes to activate on and off. So nice to have it working again just need to adjust the booster push rod a little longer is all' It's funny how a guy loves his truck the longer he has it. This 1st gen has been a work truck running almost every business day for 18 1/2 years I've owned it. I can't tell you guys how much it has meant to me.

Okay still working on it but, getting better after Source automotive did the arm connected to the pitman arm. Can't remember the name of it. We also found one wheel out of balance at the tire shop, but, the biggest difference is when I changed the brake booster. (Thanks to MnTom) It was causing the brakes to gradually go on and off by themselves. Just need to pull the master cylinder again and adjust the booster push rod longer because there is too much brake pedal travel before the brakes activate. I'm glad I found the problem. Thanks everyone for the help.

be sure and add grease to the slide pins under the rubber boots. I always check to see they slide well enough using a clamp or my hands. I forgot to mention too, the guy at the auto parts counter told me the 3 month old rebuilt master cylinder top was leaking due to an aftermarket resevior cap they used. It did not hold tight enough and found out when he pulled another master cylinderto compare. So I gues it's best to look everything over real good and compare yours to the rebuilt one out of the box..

Last week I got a rebuilt caliper for my son in laws Honda car. Problem was the chip or chisel like mark right where the brake line sealing washer goes. Every time we bleed that one it was squirting brake fluid. Took it back. Next I went to change my master cylinder on my 1st gen again because it was a recent rebuild and the top kept leaking. But when I pulled the top off the newer one today, to bench bleed, it has a big chip out of the casting where the cap contacts the body. It even looked a bit like it was hit with a hammer on top. So dealing with rebuilds you want to look at all the surfaces that mate up to other parts before leaving the store.

Great idea. If we do meet. Me have camper will travel with Bar-B-que Also great idea JoeCool. Need to find out what expenses are to impart a way that donations and pledges take the burden away from one individual. As you say, a hired professional and votes from the members in decision making and directions. This place has a small town community atmosphere that has been a favorite for many of us.

Was real nice you could stop by Joe. Was going to be a short visit but we ended up the whole afternoon, Was real surprised it was almost supper time when you left. I feel like I gained a good friend. Dropping by anytime in the future would be great. Everyone, pray Joe's new soon to be grandson comes out fine you guys, including Yabadoo. Congrats Joe. You made it a fine day bud and great conversation.

That's a cool thought. I think many of us can appreciate this. Thank you. So bring big potatoe for pipe stuffer. Just don't forget and leave it in

Yep, Deal! Had to haul free firewood today but will check out my truck against what the link says tomorrow UpDate; I found out it's the two fronts that are dragging. Not the rear drums at all. Antilock system applies only to the rears And I got the ABS light to stay off by messing with some wires and disconnecting the battery for a short time. Thanks MnTom. The fronts are not dragging as much the last two firewood trips because everytime I feel it starting to drag I hit the brakes with a light tap and it goes away. Before without the taps they get worse and worse without even using the brakes. Will be checking the one way check valve on the booster, maybe even change the booster and master cylinder next weekend.

Hope I don't get kicked for this comment, but wouldn't it be nice if we could turn that sucker into a mechanical lift pump? It's already geared into the engine

MnTom, to find and put that information up for me. That's some good reading right there........you are one cool person. I owe you one bud. Or a breakfast or something. Will work on it again this weekend and report back.

Mn Tom, Thank you for explaining that. Some days my skull is bullet proof thickness. Yes I have done that and it holds on hills sometimes and sometimes not. Mopar Michael, This problem is on my first gen. Just never listed it cause it's usually very reliable. With all the new parts that this 92 actually needed to get everything up to par, it is not like just throwing parts on it. It needed al new brake parts so easier to narrow this problem down. So it could be the booster, rear brake dump valve, or I've come up with another possibility on the new front brake pads as they have a very thin metal shim attached to the back sides and I know that shim warps and expand. Could be causing pressure against the rotors when getting hot/ warm. Thanks to you all.... this weekend I will do some tests and looking at it some more. Will report back.

Thanks to both you guys. At this point the only thing left, I think, would be the vacuum booster. MnTom, that truck is a rock there's not much rocking it'll do. Don't know what the reasoning is there. I've even thought the dragging was coming on by itself sometimes without pressing the brakes. Just checked the vacuum and is around 30. Disconnected the booster and as suspected, is a lot harder to get the brakes to work. So that won't work. Amount of times I've changed the booster I have to dislike the thing. Has to be the check valve putting slight pressure on the brakes somehow, don't understand.

I've had this problem for awhile with all 4 brakes staying slightly on and dragging. The Antilock light is on. Here is what we've done that it needed changed out both front calipers 2x's New rear shoes New springs and clips New rear brake self adjusters New Emergency brake cables all adjusted Both Drums turned Both front disks turned new front pads Rebuilt master cylinder primed properly in a vise All new fluid flushed thru New front brake lines New rear wheel cylinders Any speculation as to why all 4's are dragging, ruining fuel mileage, is greatly and so very much appreciated.

I am convinced that you need several to many disabling tactics incorporated into the truck because the crooks are getting pretty smart. I'd say do all the above as a combination. I would like a couple 1/2'' size fuel shut off valves both hidden best you can. All this takes time you may not have right now.

You saying the AD150 has it's own fuel return? I did not know since I have the AD100 without any return. Is that part of how it regulates pressure dumping excess back to the tank? Thanks Dieselfuture.