JAG1

That says quite a lot about fuel restriction coming just from the fuel return. Wonder how that affects the overflow valve and VP cooling we all talk about.? Another mod I need to think about as I'm getting about 4-5 p.si. fluctuations with heavy hauling uphills. This good information Dieselfuture.

So you are saying you got 1 to 2 psi less pressure fluctuation by going to 1/2 inch return lines?..wow!

I cut a access hole over the top of the fuel module in the bed. It's really very nice to be able to get in there and have the module out in about two minutes. But..... and I mean a big BUT.... it took me two and a half days of iron metal framework to reinforce what I cut. Plus every bit of design skill/thought to work it out. When I cut the hole, I thought,'Oh! how cool is that! 'but like said before, it was a real brain racker to fix it back strong again. Especially when knowing I cut thru a bed frame support and carry a heavy slide in camper. The only way I can show how is to actually show it to you and not in a post. Be glad to have anyone come by for coffee too, if you like. It first takes the right amount of numbness or guts, whichever you prefer, and then some real work/ brain work too work it out. Maim reason for doing it...... I love a good challenge, had time on my hands and one day age will make things like dropping the tank difficult.

I'm not sure it's that just I've understood, for some time, that the VP is capable of pumping some fuel from the tank and you only need cooling when underway and it starts building heat.

Related to the above.... Does it hurt the VP if you start the engine without fuel pressure?

I have heard of turbo bark but do not know what it is nor how it affects the truck.

No wonder there's a shortage of 2 stroke in Oregon! Hoping it's not timing related.

Is that what happens when you never go to the dealers for service On a more serious note.....Mike that happened to me once 5 years ago, like a moment of instant fuel starvation. It was about 10 miles later my oe lift pump went out. After a new oe lift pump it never did it again. Weird!

Thanks Bryan for clarifying that. Les Schwab wants $194 to replace pitman arm. But I don't always trust guys working on piece rate & commission. They've did some bad stuff many years ago so I don't know about now. Tom, it starts the shaking on it's own. I can feel it start very slow and then builds up to seeing the hood shaking and all. If I don't touch the brakes it does fade away. Comes and goes like that

Welcome to the forum. I think the second gen styling is going to end up being a classic. Out of all the generations it's still the best looking. And seems the older its styling the better it seems to get. That's a problem though because mine is getting so nice lookin' I'm afraid to drive it for fear of wrecking it. Don't forget to post up a signature of what your truck has got on it.

Thanks Tom, Getting the idler arm replaced. Does anyone know how long that normally should take? They want me to leave the truck but can't do anything without a work truck. Correction.... I think it's called a Pitman arm. Not sure what an Idler arm is but it's the one bolted up to the steering secter shaft with the big nut on it.

Had it looked at 4 times, thrown some parts at it w/ rebalanced rear driveline, replaced front calipers, turned front disks, new pads and shoes, something replaced on the front differential (both sides under some kind of plastic caps with 4 bolts on each one). Just got it looked at again and found idler arm play with up down movement when you wiggle the steering back and forth. Am I on the right track with this? Whole truck starts shaking on its own at high speeds and goes away when I touch the brakes and then comes back again on its own. Thanks to you all for making this a great place to enjoy reading worth while things.

Yep there is money in doing those walls. I get my 5/6 lb. sledge and beat the bottom course of blocks down into the gravel. I place a block of wood on top so as to not break the block. Then that tells you if you need to sprinkle a bit more gravel or take some out and beat on it again to get each one level, even and completely settled. It's a lot of work on the first course. Once the first course is set it is like a cake walk to stack 'em. That kind of work helps keep you strong. Around here it's Mutual Materials is the best to deal with on these blocks.

I'm convinced about engineered stacked block as well. If it ever does fail it can be taken apart and reset if needed.

My ash tray holds very little change due to the current administration

Thanks Mike, I learned it when my 3 little daughters kept letting their prized balloons go and we'd have to climb up and get them down. We tied longer strings to them but nothing interesting until we figured out how to do a balanced weight to float about. It was real interesting for all of us... about every hour or so here comes this balloon returning along the floor again, get warmed up, rise, go away along the ceiling, even dropping down a bit to clear under doorways.

Welcome to the forum Corey. That is one hell of a lot of work to get a truck lowered like that. A lot of guys give up half way thru not only due to problems with uneven pavement but, the expense and work you have to go thru to complete is very demanding. I like the Dodge diesel 4x4 being that I'm from the older generation, going out cutting firewood, running logging roads and discovering unknown places. Just something about that being able to 4 wheel into somewhere and get away from crowds. I'm impressed with your mechanical skill Corey.

To study convection and air currents in your home take a kids helium balloon and tie a paper towel to the string. Use scissors and cut small amounts of paper towel off until it floats about mid level in the room upstairs. Open all the doors and watch how the balloon travels under doorways, cools down comes back along the floor all the way back to the woodstove. Keep watching you will learn a lot about your house where air is trapped etc. That might also indicate where to cut vents for cold air to return back to the woodstove.

When my 3 daughters were in their late teens they knew lots more than me. Now they are all grown up and mature. I just smile and love 'em cause they're always calling me for advice and help with everything from buying a house to cars. It's so cool to be so needed now a days I think some of the best younger generation are the ones that have served in the armed forces.

I understand that you just match the number of color bands, their location and colors the same, would be an exact match on the transistor. It would be nice, if in an emergency, that you could just cross some wires... hot wired you could call it and get the truck back home. That would be better than always driving round thinking.... ''Gee, I hope it makes it.''

Wild and Free, is that the toilet paper that's like the Starship Enterprise?

It used to be like that. It would run down outside the pipe even though the piping had the joints going the right way so goop stayed inside the piping as it ran down. I had no idea how it getting on the outside of the pipe but, then bad creosote smell/ smoke in side the house. It was bad. Burns good now and no problems. 32 degrees outside here too for the low. The coldest we ever had, was -5 and that was way out of our being used to it temps as it was so unusual for us.

The 5th wheel keeps the car from tipping over forward when brakes are applied.

As a matter of fact I did that once by accident doing electrical work when I was very tired. I sent full battery power thru the ECM ground. After which I disconnected batteries for about an hour. I can't remember but my temperature gauge or the volt meter was pegged after that. after letting it sit for an hour with batteries disconnected it went back to normal.