JAG1

Bill, haven't you eve heard of tightening a nut with a wrench? Just kidding Bud, I don't even know how they attach! But, I'd be willing to bet she's got them down solid.

Wow !Who would have ever thought about trying that? And they fit perfect from what I see. That is soooo cool I'd bet there better than the Dodge mirrors.

Robert let me know when your on vacation.... I need one too

Way I understand it is there are such tight tolarences (SP.) inside the VP that excessive heat will affect it. Plus I don't know how cheap bean countin' company executives can be that decide to not use silver in the solder like they are supposed to do. So the connections go bad is what I'm hearing. Yes... and it pisses me off to see people getting wealthy off of doing a disservice to Americans and their families, in reference to not using silver. Some have fought and gave it all. Bible says to cast your bread upon the water because God knows that incorporating generosity toward others comes back many fold.

Need to turn up your fuel pressure, just a little, so it never goes below 14 or 15. That's the lowest you want to help save the VP. my AD 100 is at 19-20 idle and gets down to 15 on hills with a heavy load. I must have gotten one of the older AD 100 models because I am not having problems at all. I bought it right when AD quality was starting run downhill and get talked about.

Ed, do you say that because it looks like there are no ball bearings? Am I looking at it right? The shafts just ride on bushings that need constant oiling? And where is the front shaft seals that guys are talking about going bad and starting to leak?

I don't know what it's all about on some of those rv forums. I had trouble with a few guys before. Some of them love to stir the pot to the point there's no liquid left. I found out too that once they realize your not interested in playing the ongoing popularity contest, you get treated badly by the forum moderator's side kick and croney, who never got moderated btw. This forums a great place... Michael Nelsons' helped loads on my truck and never judges anyone.

I'm very sorry about having to change the pan gasket. That can be a hassel. I don't think I would buy a DTT Assassin pump. I would not want the mounting strength problem as you mentioned and the front seal going out so early like I've been reading about. I very much appreciate all you have told us about your experiences with it. Thank you Will.

Yeah they look like Leatards or something.

I like the idea of the Fass heater. I would look into insulating the fuel lines with the commercial pipe insulation. It's thicker and snaps on.

I climb in to help save the cushy seats

I've heard of that extended chimney will help with better draft. I also heard that the way the wind swirls off the ridge of a house can cause problems so an extension gets it above the swirl. In my case it was too slow of draft causing build up so when I got the metal shears and cut off the band around the cap... wow! Major difference. I think it's confusing to tell what is causing slow draft and creosote build up because I used to think it was because the upper sections of pipe were too cold.... well, when you increase pipe flow rate it keeps the upper pipe warmer and helps stop creosote build up. I just don't know it all because its easy to think, okay if I'd only gotten 8 inch pipe instead of 6 it would have been a whole lot better, but then with the 8 inch pipe the flow would have been slowed, allowing the upper sections to run cooler and building up creosote. I'm so happy now because it was a major problem of creosote build up for years. I mean it was really bad that no amount of super dry wood took care of it until I cut off and put that band in the garbage.

As long as you can still climb in your truck and drive, your not old.

Tired of rotted out steel pipe each year so all stainless pipe and rivets.

I have played around with that situation. Shut it all the way down long enough to build up explosive gasses then wide open both draft with door shut. As soon as a flame resumes it explodes and knocks some of the creosote down from the chimney. Sorry to hear this guy got hurt though

Mike, those are cool pics. Looks like you live way out in the wild country somewhere. How far is that from your home?

Yep there is no beating motion nor play on my 400k one so yours is going out for certain. You guys ever find out where I live an I'll have to have a full time guard out there just guarding the parts on my 12 valve

Mine did this a few times after some hill climbing and heavy load. I kept starting it in neutral then let the truck coast downhill for a little bit and then clicked in either forward or reverse depending on the direction of the slope. After about 4 -5 times it stopped misbehaving. Knowing the cost of a rebuilt trans and having to deal with many rebuilders that aren't the best around I have come to the conclusion that changing the trans fluid every 15,000 miles, but no power flushes Is the best savings on the planet. Just drain out what you can and replace. Do the filter every other 30,000 miles.

Time will tell on these pumps. Awhile back I used to read a little about different types of pumps and remember some where self priming. Meaning they were able to lift whatever liquid they were designed for, from dry to a self prime with a vertical lift rating of say 6 feet, or a self priming capability of 8 feet. They were all rated more or less, depending on design, with a particular amount of self priming capability. All had the commonly stated GPM rating too but, always stated weather it had self priming capabilities. Some pumps were not self priming and always stated that. Now in the case of the Assassin being that it is mounted below the tank level esp. with a full tank, or maybe somewhat even with the bottom of the tank, depending on ground slope, this pump does not need much in the way of a self priming capability. It does need to be able to build and hold pressure up to the injection pump. Therefore I cannot understand why Will and his brother are having trouble unless it's high spin design is allowing tank drain back but then again, it should be getting enough fuel just from gravity to prime up to the VP. I just don't know other than saying something is wrong with the pump or air coming in from somewhere is allowing an immediate tank drain back past the pump. How can that be? Another question is would I want to rely on a single pressure regulator to not ever allowing extreme pressure to damage the the VP in any way or causing other problems. I hate to sat it.... there might be some advantages to having the electric pump back near the tank... just not sure of anything much these days. Will, I would say have your brother put the electric pump back in place and see if it starts except that comes with a lot more work having to back track.

I do not like the design of the assassin pump. I think It is too small for taking such a high spin resulting in heat build up, poss. bearing failure. .Are those little bearings going to last with so much stress from the high spin and the constant belt tension? Such a small piece of equipment to have to dissipate the heat and stress. Time will tell...... Sorry if I've offended anyone.... To me, they are too expensive to not know what any published test results are with continual service.

Dorkweed, don't see how it could be your fan clutch. My other trucks got over 400 k still on the original. If your not sure it's cheaper and good maintenance to change water pump. Doin mine in the next hour so.

Right after this thread started mine started the squeaky metal rub sound. Must be Virus. I thought it was the belt tensioner pulley but I changed it and the squalling noise is getting worse while sitting at idle. Most important to check the water pump before any damage occurs to the radiator. Just replace it every so often is best. Be doing that today.

Thank you. Way I feel in the morning, I'll be luckey to reach 75 too!

Good point about the gearing. I think with the 6 spd trans I would want highway gears. That would mean 3:55's is my guess. Just look at the factory plate with the specs? Or I'll get it out on the highway and make sure she's not screaming.

Its got side utility tool boxes, 5 on each side that come up only about half what a full box height is. Then it's got a telescoping aluminum bed cover between the tool boxes that slides in sections over one another. Sort of like a telescope cut in half with sections that slide under each other. Sometimes my thought is just go for the full box.... think of the storage ... but then I like the 6 speed manual trans on this one Thanks to all you guys for any help/ advice on this. Just found out too.... that this one has a six cylinder Isuzu... means possibly it hasn't worked itself so hard over the 299,000 miles on it. I can only go see it tomorrow after the guy gets off work Any common problems you guys know about and I should look out for? It's a 1995.