JAG1

My truck needs recharging for at least 3 hrs ea. week after sitting. It's got a ghost draw. I know there's a fuse to pull but which is the right one? Near the fuse pulling tool 'dealy bob':think:Thanks in advance

What kind of thinking does this new breed of people have? I ask cause I notice more idiot drivers. If you are in the stores you notice rudeness and weirdness.All the older folks are still okay for the most part. But, I know I need to get away from Portland.... it's literally creeped out to my neck of the woods too.

Sorry about that! None of us are perfect, I know, but you know more about my truck than I do.

I did a test once mixing a little dash board treatment, something like Armor All, only better and mixed it with the natural wax when waxing the hood of my truck. It wouldn't mix well. I just kept working it into the surface that much harder till it did. That was the longest lasting wax job I ever had.Might be something to that, as if the vinyl treatment put something back into the paint it needed:shrug:

Just think.....If we had more folks like him in this country.... everything would be alright:thumbup2:.

That's a good situation on level ground easy to get to. I'd say 30 cords

Mike that is truely friend. To get down and dirty like that.... Man, he deserves 1st place there.When you change out the fuel lever register do you guys go for an aftermarket one or just go to the dealership for it?There's gotto be a good aftmerket source.

I'll do pictures on Saturday as I have a demanding job going right now this week.I did take the afternoon off and just got the work done. Cut the diamond plate cover and got the frame support secured.It's done except a few minor details.Next is to figure out where my air leak and excessive fuel pressure drop is coming from.A side note: I do not recommend doing this unless you are adament about having a real challenge in front of you.One big BIG solution to making it easier would be an idea I haf during the 2 1/2 days I've spent on it.Would be to provide a telescoping frame that slides together and bolts in firm. This telescoping frame would slide out of the way of the fuel tank, sliding inside the cut away bed rib on either side and come together when you want the frame strong and back in place. Bolt it back together and your done. As long as it fits snug enough for support you could use galvanized heavy wall pipe with a threaded coupling to connect the bed rib frame back in place.I did it the hard way with all new steel framing and a ton of luck with existing factory holes luckily located in the frame and cross member where I needed them. Took a lot of thought and just out and out accidental luck.Say prayers you guys they workPics to come.....

Well it has tried my patience just a wee bit. I've been taking my time planning ea. piece before jumping in. It has taken a bit of luck but, with the way things worked out, I like to think the boss above has been looking out for me too because this is one of those gambles you pray comes out O.K.It would help if I had more experience building flatbed trucks for a living that sort of thing.Anyhow, I'm almost done... got to make up a verticle support to carry the new bed frame crossover off the trucks frame. Since I do not want to drill nor weld the frame it's going to take a bit of creativity using more existing frame holesTomorrow I order the 1/4'' diamond plate cover. Might need to be 3/16ths because of the diamond treads going up too high above the bed ribbing. We shall see.

I must say also that That the existing bed frames are very thin gauge mild steel. Any reinforcement I do using this 1 1/2x 3 1/3 heavy wall steel tubing while more than suffice. To do this mod is a little off the wall... I know, but, I want to do it even though I don't disagree with everyone.

I needed a project. Sittin around here every weekend gets old. I was in dire need of a challange after the winter mos. Besides I suspect a problem sucking air either the fuel line or draw straw. Plus....... when (not if) my fuel gauge register goes out I'll have it. I've dropped the tank twice before and 3 times on my first gen. That gets old too btw.

I cut 13 1/2'' front to back and about 16'' wide. I was under the bed counting the number of corrugated ribs. I accidently went one rib too many on side to side dimension. Thought I was being very careful too:doh: but, It does make it easier to change fuel lines if ever I need toI'll give size tomorrow , the main thing is to leave the lowest flat part of the ribs on ea. side for the cover plate to rest on.I need to look at what I do structurally cause I carry a 3400 lb slide in camper.

Today I decided in spite of the existing truck bed cross member above the fuel module, I cut the opening for a access hatch or lid, whatever you call it.I knew I was taking a risk in weakening the bed but, If I just cut the surface out first I knew I would then be committed:cookoo: Committed to getting it done and to get it right.I only cut the surface and removed that first. Then I was able to see what to do, especially with new light on the situation.I found the cross member just behind the module on the right side would allow 1 1/2'' square tubing over the top and support the cut bed frame just perfectly.After Easter celebration I'll figure out the rest the support needed and report back.As for now I know that 1/4'' thick diamond plate hatch door will fit perfectly flush and Getting that on Monday.

I think the factory isn't much interested making it easier to work on. I'm going to make a bed access plate. I will cut the corrugated bed so that the lowest ribs are longer to hold the plate and be flush with the higher ribs. I don't care about that cross member.... I'll figure something out for that after I cut it open. I'm thinking about a sleeved cross member that slides into the existing. Just slide it out of the way inside the other.

I agree whole heartedlyIt's amazing what we hear on the news today. Just happened recently.... a teen age boy with enough unimaginable evil to shoot a little tiny baby in the head. This baby was defenseless, in a stroller. I cannot imagine someone ever doing such a thing.God removed from schools and our hearts.... evil moves right in:smart:

I just switched from my original Bosch over to a new Nippon Denso just two weeks ago. I perfer the ND because of the luck I have had with them lasting and the thicker winding wire inside. I also like the seperate ground prong to ground directly to the battery. Bosch does not have one on there so the only ground is thru the mounting which I found was a weak connection using my ohm meter. I think the bad ground is caused by the mounting bracket having a thick powder coating.When you compare weight without a scale I think the ND felt a little heavier.... which I don't know matters or not.

Ed, thank you for taking time to do the write up and shed a little extra light on a better way for handling the rv batteries.I will look into that some more.BTW, I think Blue Sea Systems is the very highest quality manufacturer of 12 volt systems and parts.

I've been looking at those but, noticed they have many more wires . Hoping they have real good directions if I go that route. I think they'd be a great advantage for rv batteries hooked up to the truck when long haulin too..

I've been stuck thinking on this alternative VR for a long time. It's only because of what's been said from engineers saying it's best to mount the vr as far from sensitive electronics as you can.They do have some 2 and 3 hundred dollar VR's... supposed to be some of the best out there.

There aren't many guys doing it. Only one guy on the net I can find so far and he had troubles. Ended up just goin back to the PCM voltage regulator. :think:I want to do it because of RFI noises and possible damage to the computer. This is according to a couple electrical engineers recommendations I was reading about .

Both OEM rear calipers locked up on my truck. Both about 5,000 miles apart and the truck only has 75,000 miles on it.

How was I supposed to know... it looks like you cooked a steak on there That bracket's a good idea cause there is room there.

Thanks for the idea because your install leaves enough room for a battery maintainer underneath the filter.:hyper:Bring that truck to my place and I'll clean those battery posts for you. No charge:)

When I did mine I was told to eliminate the quick connect fittings as well. Vulcan performance sold me the barbed adapters that fit the new Raptor pump.You should install 1/2 inch lines all the way to keep the pressure at least 14 and above for VP cooling. This allows for a little more restriction for a 30 micron filter before the lift pump to protect it from debris. Watch which filter.... not all are designed for the suction side of the pump.