Great work!

Ratchet straps are great to change tranny. Better than a jack allows easy movement for aligning bolts. The front driveshaft is a pain you'll want an impact gun and long extensions 15 mm IRRC its clocked too only lines up one way. A 3 foot extension with a wobble socket makes things easier. The top nuts for the transfer case are a pain too a curved or cut off wrench helps. The cross member has to go UP then back to come out . Leave the 4x4 lever in the boot. Just unbolt from tranny. Us a small crow foot pry bar to pop out the linkage. Be careful not to pinch wires in bell housing when installing.

I have a similar problem. I replaced the center seat with a sub woofer and shoved the module under it. After a half hour of driving it will lock the seat belts. I have to shut down for a few minutes to reset it. It is a bad setup without the module the seat belts won't protect you.

Very nice. Congratulations

Maxim 9924 use for 2 wire RPM sensor. "DIV / 2" : Sorry for that. Arduio is 10 bit ADC or maybe 8 bit (I can not remember) if so then ×4 to get in range of actuator. The actuator may have current sensing and pulsing encoder to detect limits of vanes you may need to assemble to turbo for calibration to work. I don't use a CAN shield. I use a MCP 2515 based board on amazon form China names vary SMAKN or NyRen. It has a different crystal than most shields so the library will need a different define or setting. I don't use a CAN library either. You can skip the message filter and mask too with only 2 simple nodes.

Just curious have you done APPS calibration procedure? Then do a stare and compare of the scans and live data. There could be some gain/ Offset values saved in the ECM.

Is rpm sensor 2 or 3 wire type? Try toggling LED on uno and connect to scope for debugging. Toggle LED in the CAN send funtion to test. Try short cutting the code by sending a pot reading to CAN. Example final_vane_position = (analog.read(A0) / 2); where your pot connects.

Metal Fuel line likes to crack or rot right at the top of tank.

Unfortunately the wires going to the timing and injection solenoids will deteriorate they are aviation grade wire with teflon insulation but they still go bad. The timing solenoid likes to go bare right were it enters. it's at the bottom and very hard to get at. You can try heat shrink or liquid tape gasket RTV will work too. Be careful if the injection wires short together very long it will kill the electronics on top of the vp. See picture.

You need to limit the value of the variable: final_vane_position right before the CAN send function so that only valid values are sent. So that if something goes wrong while tinkering. Insert this: final_vane_position = constrain(final_vane_position, 40, 960); // prevent non valid position data Just before line: byte lo_byte = lowByte( blah blah); Try that. You can hack up an lcd.print(drive or whatever); to lcd.print(final_vane_position); to actually see the value.

My notes show a 5 volt square wave on the gry/black wire at 2x the RPM. You could try a downloading a function generator app for your phone and cut up some headphone cables and connect it to the wire. May have to cut it to prevent the ECM from loading down the signal. Set the function gen to square wave 5volts and 30 HZ. Output that on both left and right channels red and white are the signals and the bare shield connects to ground. I have not tried it but it might work.

2000

I changed my cab because of rust the doner was a crashed 1500 one year newer. Nothing was the same even the door connectors were different because of the optional radio. Swapped all wiring including the taillight harness and added cab lights.

These trucks are prone to electrical noise and interference due to wiring layout and design mistakes. First re terminate the battery terminal connections they need to be clean and tight. All the ground connections on the cab and engine need checked. Measure for AC voltage from the alternator or get it checked. Consider doing th WT ground mod search for WT ground mod.

Years ago I used a piece of clear hose about 10 feet long and ran from each bleeder to the master cylinder and just kept pumping away. In my case the porportioning valve was stuck. I took it apart and put it back together but then it leaked so I bought a new one.

Have you tried it with out any tuners. Clean battery terminals. Has WT-mod been done?

Check for blow by with the oil cap off and could be sticky timing piston in the vp. If it sticks bad it can cause code 216.

Thanks for the help. I'll keep checking. The compressor is the original one.

Any thoughts on chasing down ac leaks. I haven't had very good luck with dye. Are the cheap sniffers any good. I was thinking about a kit with plugs and adaptors that can isolate components and pressurize them kind of expensive though. I changed the evaporator about 10 years ago I hope that's not the problem again.

That's a lot of work doing it twice. Makes you wonder what happened and how many transmissions they have rebuilt. The NV4500 is pretty simple to put together not like some other brands that need duct tape, fishing string and anti gravity to get back together.

The ECM on these trucks us a software style governor. They are typically known as PIDs Proportional Integral Derivative controllers. The PIDs have coeffiecents or tuning parameters that are selected for smooth operation, usually some trial and error is involved. Tuning is often different based on engine and tranny types, they have to idle smooth and not buck or surge and compensate for all kinds of things. Problem is the PID can loose control so they are wrapped with more code that establishes fuel limits and response and even more code to try to make a malfunctioning or severely worn motor keep running. The motor keeps a small amount of fuel going while coasting downhill to prevent bucking or starving the fuel distributor of lube rather then going to zero (automatics may go to zero I'm not sure). Then when stopped at a stop sign it has to transition to smooth idle mode. There are default fuel values built in to the code that try to keep things happy but tuners and worn injectors plus other mods like exhaust brakes cause havoc for the PID and can cause rough running and stalling. It needs VSS to determine if your coasting or stopped to select the desired PID tuning parameters. In an Ideal world the PID could compensate for anything reasonable but that is often not the case.

The signal it's looking for is a small current blip in the injection solenoid's current when the plunger moves. A solenoid has a 'dead time' from when the current is first switched on until the plunger starts to move, it can vary between different solenoids and the battery voltage along with temperature. The psig looks for the blip to determine the dead time ( in microseconds) so it can turn on the solenoid early enough so that the plunger - valve will be closed at exactly the right moment to give the most precise fuel duration and timing. Without the signal it can still run by using the last known good value in microseconds or a default value from a table. See the attached figure 1. I put it together from what I have observed with test equipment and studying the pump tone ring and cam doughnut. So yes the module on the pump or the solenoid and it's wires have a problem. The plunger - valve is still moving though or else the engine wont run. VPwave1.pdf

You can get a balanced and ready to go center section for less than 400. If you rebuild check for wear in the bore where the seals set. End play causes the shaft to contact the seals which causes them to momentarily spin in the housing causing wear then a groove forms.

Just wore it out. The ball's and springs and the notches on the shift rod are all shot. Sometimes the housing part that hold the balls wear. I had to weld and re-grind notches on my old bulldozer shifter. Because its obsolete.

Should have a fault code then for cam or crank sensor problem. Try a different OBD tool. Try unpluging an engine sensor and make sure your code reader detects it.

Do you have a delayed wait to start light? If so that could be ECM dying. Does the oil and temp gauges keep working when the Tach quits, they take a while to go to zero if there is a comm fail. Check if the alternator is charging when the tach zeros out use a voltmeter on the battery. ECM is responsible for tach, oil and temp gauge. It also tells the PCM that the engine is running.