hex0rz

Better than the vp44 dying on me!

I never had white smoke until this fuel problem showed up. I run just stock exhaust with a 5" tip. I got the truck that way and haven't touched it since.

Haven't gotten to the tee yet, will do it this weekend. But for now, this is what in getting at startup. Took 3 primes originally but lately it's hut and miss. This isn't the vp44 is it?

Well fixing the weep at the injector line didn't fix it. Going to tackle the tee next...

I just went out and the trick still has trouble. So it wasn't the sealing washers... I loosened the injector line then re tightened it and it appears to have stopped the leak. Dunno if that'll help my problem or not. Return tee is next. The fuel regulator for the ad 165 is not a ball system. Uses a pin and spring style.

Ball? What ball? So it does look like i can use a piece of fuel line to replace them with. I'll have to try and verify size. Next step, fuel tee... if that works im going to be happy but also very mad, lol. I wonder, if the #2 line doesn't seal, can i purchase the individual line?

Alright, got the banjo washers changed out. Dunno if it'll make a difference. I think I've got gremlins running around my truck. Last couple days been smelling diesel fuel. When i changed out the washers i noticed the tee looked wet and i also noticed the #2 injector line weeping fuel. I cleaned everything up by washing everything down and rinsing. Then ran that truck a little to get it hot enough to dry it out. While it was running, it took several minutes for a drop of fuel to buildup on the injector nut. It doesn't appear to be coming from the thread area but more between the nut and line! I'm not sure if loosening it then torquing it back down will fix it or not. I dunno what my course of action is here on the injector line problem. Do i have to get a new line? As for the fuel return tee, what seals does that take? O rings, square seals, or something else? Been reading up on it and someone used 1/4" fuel line for a seal?

Custom fabricated...

Who carries them? I need to just spend a whole day at talking the problem. Going from beginning to end really combing through. I've talked to Eric, but after the bucket test showed no difference, he wasn't able to help me further. I also converted the quick connects on the supply side to parker hose and push fittings to eliminate that from the equation. I'm gonna start over again and work from the tank up. I'll probably have to drop the tank as removing the bed isn't in the cards as it's just me.

This is the splitter i was talking about. The k10:

I replaced both filters recently and yes i have a water separator. This has been going on for longer than a tank of fuel... I also recently took off the lines to emery cloth the tips going to the crossover tubes as i read that this can cause it. They're torqued to spec, and no leaks visible. I know i seem like I'm shooting you down with every idea, but i guess it just shows all of what I've been trying.

I used to have a hydraulic. But I'm not really worried about what comes with one. Where are you seeing these reviews on the dr splitter? Dr has like 4 star reviews on it.

20psi Yes i have 1/2" line all the way to the vp44 Never seen a screen for the lift pump inlet? Using a modified fuel basket kit from air dog Don't have oem filter in line for fuel supply. Will try the pressurize method and see what i get. Will check overflow valve too Put a mirror in the back of the engine bay and didn't see any leaks anywhere.

No dice... Even left the cap off on the way to work and it didn't make a difference... You know it's getting bad when i have a dream last night, with Mike being up where i live and he helps me find my problem. In my dream it turned out to be the draw straw. So we took one from a person that was drinking a fountain soda and replaced it with that. :D ...can't even make this stuff up!

Hand splitting gets old. Don't have much in the budget for a new hydraulic splitter. So I've been eyeing a small kinetic splitter. Ima bit loyal to DR so i was thinking about getting their model. For a small kinetic and electric splitter it looks impressive. What's everyone think about the kinetic splitters? I'm only splitting for myself also and its mainly birch sometimes some pine.

Last night i replaced the water and fuel filters. There was a change in pump noise and sounded allot better. But this morning, it was the same old noise of the pump again. Still had a start issue. I have been doing a bump cycling and then during the second cycle, cranking over. It'll fire no problem. When i took the fuel filter off, there was a percolating noise. I'm wondering if i have a faulty tank vent. Causing vacuum in the system and sucking fuel back out of the lines into the tank. I think i will try and leave the cap off over night and see if releasing any vacuum is causing the problem.

Injector o rings? The orange ones on the injectors?

People often say they want to save the bees. They think by doing so they need to be a beekeeper. While they are well intended, becoming a beekeeper to just save bees is the wrong virtue. You want to save the bees, don't be a beekeeper to do just that. Instead, stop killing their food! Stop spraying all those things that you call a weed! Everyone is so caught up with manicured lots. That the dandelion or any other pesky plant that peppers their lawn is a curse. Yet they complain about bees dying while they spray roundup. This picture i provided is from a hive i inspected today. This will be a frame for my consumption. This coincides with knapweed bloom. A noxious weed that even govt agencies despise. While it does pitfalls, for me or means I'm letting my bees collect natural forage instead of supplementing with sugar syrup. It's been some time getting to this point. Read em and weep! It's a fulfilling moment to finally see them making more honey again.

..and what are you doing in inclement weather situations? You don't want to be using your exhaust brake and causing a loss of traction. If i start paying more than 30 a rotor for a turn, it's almost worth just buying new rotors. But i was warned about that. The idea of making it cost prohibitive to work a used product over instead of just buying new...

Ceramics eat your rotors quicker than metallics. Pads are cheaper to replace than rotors if you go metallic. One thing that I'm really irked about is i have to remove the lug studs to do the brakes. I wish they would have of thought about that earlier than my truck... I did find an auto shop that had a brake machine that could turn my rotors while still on the truck but they wanted 30 a rotor.

I did ceramics on another truck once and hated them. So it's been metallic pads for me ever since.

Im trying to salvage my rotors. I found a machine shop that'll do them but i need to take them in to see what he'll charge etc. I've always learned that if you turn rotors, you do new pads. That's why specifications exist. If they go outside of those, unusable, then replace.

Wow, this thread exploded, lol. I guess i should have made this in the general conversation forum. I HAD to buy two new hub assembles yesterday and i had no choice but to put the old rotors back on. I see doing this again in my future. I almost couldn't get the lug studs seated. Out of all the methods i used, it was the bfh and punch that got me through it. With between work and foxing the trick the past couple days, I've been putting in about 14 hours. Tired is beginning to take on a new meaning. And just to comment on the off topic portion of this thread, im trying my hardest to become a full-time beekeeper. One of the hardest agricultural occupations to have. But i guess I'm crazy, because the bees have me addicted to them and i just seem to find no other kind of peace that they give me when I'm working hard and sweating because of them. ...my passion! Firefighting is a close second too...

Im doing just that. Last incident, i did the alignment myself. I set the toe by strapping 2x4s to my tires and taking front and back measurements. Set the toe in a 1/16" and she drives like a dream. I can literally go down the road without even veering one way or another unless i have ruts or crown. Turning my rotors i imagine can only be done with a lathe, which i don't have nor can afford at the moment.

Lately, the idea of taking some of my work to a local shop to ensure it gets done better than i could has been biting me in the rear. First it was a shop that couldn't do my alignment because they said they couldn't adjust my sleeve. Today i take my brake rotors in to get turned. Let alone they are one of only few shops around that even turn rotors anymore! So i tale them in and come back in 45 min as they told me an hour to do the job. I wait out in the car and the guy comes out and tells me the rotors are too big. He wasted 90 min of my time before bothering to come out and tell me he couldn't do it. He said he's never had this problem before and that the rotors were like an 1/8" inch too big. I was MAD! I'm so fed up with people and their lack of effort. I feel like stupid is out breeding smart! Anyone have suggestions? 50$ a rotor from oh really but these rotors are good and never been turned. I was also told people just replace things now, not re work things...