hex0rz

So does that mean I'm joining you in the can't fix the mystery club or do you have a solution.

Anyone know if i can substitute the crossover tube o rings with regular o rings or are they specific? Is hate to buy regular o rings that are marked up because i had to order from cummins. Anyone know the size as well? Last night i found a parking spot at work that had a slight incline. The truck started on the first cranking but i also cranked for 5 seconds or so. Dunno if it was a clue to my problem or not.

If i could, all i would do is put a cummins engine on a frame and call it good. I can't stand anybody and their flawed designs.

Well, final fill amount was 7 quarts for me.

Language warning SO TRUE!

Ugh, i dunno what to say. I haven't done much since doing the hard lines. Just been living with the problem. Been dealing with other repairs. As i was about to leave o'reillys, the truck wouldn't start. I could tell during the cranking that something felt different like a gas engine without it's spark plugs in. The day this occurred, it was almost 100 degrees out. I let the truck sit for a few minutes then tried again. This time it kind of sputtered over instead of a nice firm firing. Hasn't done it since but i just dunno. Maybe my vp44 is on its last leg? It's not throwing codes, but that don't mean anything always... Im thinking more and more about the p pump conversion!

Yea, mine doesn't have front wheel abs. I put it all back together, going to test drive tomorrow during the day. Crossing fingers! Got the front axle u joints done too. Boy those were easy to do, wish they were that easy when i did the front Driveshaft. Still have to order a new slip yoke because of the one i cracked.

Whoa! 300 a piece? Who is charging that??? Last time i checked, o really sells them for 150 or so a piece...

That's how much the toe was out by. I adjusted the toe so the front was only a 16th narrower than the back.

Ugh... got the drivers side axle pulled to do the u joints. The hub bearing assembly split in two. I dunno why I'm suddenly getting nickled and dimed to death by this truck... Im at the point where i can't afford two new bearing units. Gonna try my luck at putting it back in and see how long it'll last me...

This is the kind of people I'm dealing with up here... I got the front end jacked up, i check things over. None of what they told me was accurate. They told me they greased my joints but when i got under to check, they didn't grease them! They took a spooge of grease and made it look like they did them! WTF! It was especially evident when i greased them. They told me that even with two of them and a pipe wrench they couldn't turn my adjuster sleeve. GUESS WHAT? I'M TURNING IT BY MYSELF! What a bunch of sissies! Granted I'm on the ground so i don't have enough clearance to get good turns using a cheater bar on the wrench but I'm doing it! It'll take me a billion turns to get my toe adjusted 5/8" but it beats having a headache with incompetence. I really feel like calling them and yelling at them on the phone and leaving bad reviews. Rant out...

Looking at the pictures online, i already had the t style. Bought the moog parts and they are t style as well. I'm about to start tearing into the front again. I'll be diagnosing whether or not something needs replacement. I'm so mad, at the shop for their lack of effort. I can't be entirely mad at them i guess as maybe there was some truth in what they said. Last time i was there they told me my brakes needed done. That was like 6 months after redoing them myself! ..still on those a same set of brakes. I'm never going back to them again! So does anyone know where to get the metal cups or whatever for the joints? Do i need them? I'm going to fix the toe myself and clock the ball joints, as i bet that's what my problem is... Had oh really order me a sleeve adjuster wrench. Still going to try a pipe wrench until it gets here. Guy at the shop told me his worker has done alignments for 30 years and him and the guy both got on the wrench and couldn't move it... LOL! I TOLD him i put that sleeve on myself. Don't tell me you can't move it! I don't get it....

As i sit here at a local auto shop for an alignment, after replacing my steering parts with moog, the auto guy comes out to tell me that he won't be able to remove the clunk noise im getting in the steering parts. He proceeds to tell me that i should have gotten better steering parts as these joint ends don't have anything to keep them from rotating. I know what he's taking about as i have seen them before. He told me with the way it sits they won't last long. He was shocked to hear that they are moog parts. Although i thought the solid pieces he's talking for the joint ends were to just combat the death wobble more. I would think that moog would have given me something to go over the grease boots if i needed them?? Would i be able to get something aftermarket to add to them to remedy this problem? I'm a little confused and irritated by all of this. I don't like dealing with auto shops for this very reason but right now I'm not equipped enough for the task at hand. Thinking i need start investing in my own home alignment system... He told me my passenger side ball joints were worn out and the track bar was too..

What are those specifically? Spanner something?

Well, the toe is extremely bad. I tried to retain the alignment but trying to screw the sleeves in tighter was just beyond my ability. I dunno how they do it at the shop. Probably a huge pipe wrench and two strong guys... I won't be driving it again until my alignment appointment. I drove it today because i had to and i had to keep both hands on the wheel to keep it straight. Going over bumps was hairy. Fights me turning and wants to go into traffic. The noise i was trying to hunt down got worse too. So i think it's the front axle u joints. At the rate I'm going... Im really not looking forward to doing those!

Called air dog, told me to check the regulator. I pulled it and didn't see anything out of place. Going to call them again and see what to do next. The hard lines were not the problem. Still having issues.

Well, lo and behold. The truck already has the hd upgrade. But obviously the bjs were toast. So i replaced all the parts work moog. Lifetime warranty through o really. Finally got the parts swapped out. What a pita!!! 230k miles of seizing. I doubt they have ever been replaced. Bfh and pickle fork to knock out the bjs. Two men, big as pipe wrenches with cheater bars in a big as vice to remove the sleeves. At one point even had to use a torch to heat them up to free them. Almost just as bad to reinstall the sleeves. Everything is nice and tight again. Here's to hoping it stopped my noise! LOL Cost me like 5 smackers for the parts and way too many hours laying on my back to get through this.

I'll pick up 3 more quarts then. Stock pan. First ever transmission service. Not as bad as i thought.

Tell me more about this hd steering kit. Need parts asap. Not driving truck today until i get new parts. Freaks me out for driving the truck like i have...

Last night i did a transmission fluid change, filters and bands. All went well with the service portion. Real wtf moment was when referring to the chiltons manual and it told me that it only takes 3 PINTS. uhm, no. The was more than just 3 pints in the pan when i dropped it. When i bought the fluid from the auto store, guy told me his computer told him 4 quarts. So i obliged and bought 4 quarts. I poured in 3 and got a reading. Ran the gear selector through all gears then put in neutral. Said it was still good. Then i took it for a test drive. Initially, it wouldn't move then a moment later i had pressure. I put in atf4+ this time. Dunno what the shop put in originally. Hopefully there are no issues with the two fluids in the transmission. Anyways, the truck shifted like dream. Night and day difference. Could hardly tell it was shifting. So today i did my fuel line service. Which is in the other thread. So i wanted to treat drive again. I check the fluid again and didn't even read on the stick! Wtf.. So i thought maybe cause it's just a fluke. Cause it drove just fine yesterday. Well i go to pull out of the driveway and the truck dies on me. I was okay, i guess I'll put quart 4 in. So let her have it all. Started it up and she drove fine for the test. Wasn't shifting as smoothly as before. Get back to the house and check fluid again. In neutral after warming up, trans temp was 150. Couldn't get it any hotter. It still would not read on the stick! I felt like i was going crazy and thought i was losing fluid. I know i torqued all the bolts and did everything right. What the heck is the real fluid change capacity after servicing the transmission?? I googled up on it and some say 6 quarts. Anyone know how much it takes? Can't believe chiltons manual said 3 pints....

So i dug a little deeper into my fuel problem. I was googling up on the issue and some guys reported that the injection pump hard lines could be the problem. They were saying to Polish up the ends that mate with the crossover tubes. I removed the hard lines and polished up all the mating ends. A couple of them looked pretty rough. The crossover tubes were pretty good. I was wishing i also had o rings at the time too, but what can you do sometimes. I dunno if it will really solve my problem or not but it will be one less thing to eliminate... I'll know more later as time goes on to see how the truck reacts.

Crap! Okay so i got under the truck tonight and looked things over. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary and maybe the brake pads could be the culprit. But something big caught my attention! It very well may be the source of my noise but i don't care. What i do care about is the steering components. All of the ball joints on the parts are shot! Some even to the point i have alot of slop in the joint! Will the balls actually come out of the socket if i keep driving it until i can replace them? Do i just have to press new balls in the joints or do i have to buy all new parts? I've been reading up on this upgrade for our trucks from the 09-10 trucks with the part number: 52122362AF Anyone know anything about that? What's my course of action here?

Upon further research, looks like it is repairable. I'm going to take a whack at it tomorrow. It's not like I've got anything to lose if it don't work! All i have been using is a BFH, and a 13/16 socket to remove the u joints and some wood as a cradle. Lo and behold it wasn't the cardan joint that gave me much of the problem. It was the lone freaking u joint that gave me the problems! Out of the three joints, only one seemed slightly viable. The center ball was in good shape, but the dust seal is toasted.

#^$*%×! I think spending money unnecessarily is in my future... Repair or replace?

No, actually. But i like getting frustrated, wasting my time, hurting myself and squeezing in a curse word or two. :D Local shop said they put the shaft on a lathe and use a dial indicator to"balance" the shaft..