hex0rz

IMHO, it does not sounds like its the tranny. I would check the throttle cable itself. If it started happening after the rebuild, it may be possible they did something to the throttle cable. Right above the vp44, is a black cover for the APPS. Take that off and look at your throttle cable. Maybe even have someone in the truck pushing the pedal seeing if there is a bind somewhere. Although, it makes me as to why it only occurs in gear... With my rebuild tranny, when I first drove it after the rebuild I was definitely not used to the shift points and how high it revved before shifting. But the firmness of the shift still felt the same. You will be able to tell the difference in your performance with it later when you actually use your truck. - - - Updated - - - Crawl under the truck and there is an inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing. 3 small bolts. Look at the flywheel and see what the teeth look like.

If you take the hub/rotor assembly and put it on a table, you can literally rotate the rotor a slight bit. The studs are not fully seated... I reused my studs when I replace the rotor. This time, I cannot.So today, I picked up studs. 7 from o'reallllly's and 1 from napa. The disparity in prices is . Napa charged $8.11/stud! O'reilly's charges $2.99/stud! They are USA made too! :thumbup2:So, I pounded out the other ones and had lame success in fully seating the new ones! :banghead:Frustrating! I tried pounding them in with a BFH and sucking them in with the lug nuts. Nope...I'm still adamant about getting them pressed! I'm gonna try tomorrow and see, but to my amazement, all the auto repair shops were BUSY!If I had my air tools and an air compressor, I would have atleast used an air chisel with a flat tip attachment.I did notice one thing about the older studs! Towards the head of the stud on the shaft, on the smooth part above the teeth that hold them in, 1/2 half of the circumference of it was rusted and the other was not!Which makes me wonder if I really 'am correct in my thoughts on the Stud hole size on the rotor.

Correctamondo! I did not think of that... that might have been what I did last time...

210lbs.... But you wouldn't think it! Eh, shooting from the hip, probably 1.5ft. I was thinking that maybe I could increase the length so I can get more leverage and cut the weight down. I.E. Make it 3 ft. long and apply 100lbs. of torque but in reality I would be applying 300ft. lbs. of torque. But what your saying, is that is not possible?

Someone ought to know on here...My torque wrench goes only up to 150ft. lbs. I need to attain 180ft. lbs. I've thought if I could do the math right, I could just add another so many inches to the wrench to attain the proper leverage to get that weight.Anyone know if I can do this with the torque wrench? Yea, I know where I can get the proper wrench that goes to 250ft. lbs. but its also $100 that I do not have at the moment.

Not sure since it has been a long time, but I'm pretty confident that they were pressed in all the way at the time. I know I definitely did not experience this at the time when I did them... I'm about to run to a repair place and have them press it, so we will see. I might even need to see what the other side is doing, too. Funny thing is, no more than a month ago, I had Les Schwab rotate my tires for me. Surprised they did not see this... As far as I know, all my u-joints are OEM. I have yet to replace them. At this moment in time, I cannot justify spending the money. At any other time, I would as I'am that type of person with that train of thought. But money is VERY tight. So, I'm doing the bare minimum to get back on the road... I may try pulling the axle out just a little and rotate the joint and see before I put it back together. Will keep you guys posted. - - - Updated - - - Alright, so I found a place that could do it for me real quick. Guy did not do it on a press. Had a couple place tell me to take a lug nut and tighten it to seat it. Tried that and also the BFH. Did not have a brass drift though... So the guy I took it to used something and a hammer. Said it was seated. Got it back on the truck and I spun it. NOPE! Still moves on me! Its not AS bad. Instead of the 1/32" play, it feels more like a 1/64", The rotational slop is still there... This is probably what has caused my brakes to get all funky on me too. So, I threw my hands up in the air tonight and tomorrow I'll pick up more studs. Getting USA made studs! Not this china crap. Anyways, I think I'm gonna have to check the left side now too, after I get this side on. I think I'm gonna take a caliper to the stud holes on the rotor too when I get it separated and see if I can get one of you guys to measure yours? I really wanna see if these china rotors have the proper lug stud hole size. If not, I'm gonna make sure o'reilly's knows.

Yep, popular saw... I like to run a 20" bar on it. Eats through all the wood around me.. I've got a 28" bar it came with, but I can't justify using it much. Slows the chain down a bunch too.I'm not completely sure about doing the alcohol thing as I have never done it. If you were to give me an exact amount and ratio to lube, then I might do it. I'm gonna have to definitely brush up on tuning my saw again.

So maybe I'm not crazy after all!

Bleh... I don't think the ethanol could have done it, as like I said, I buy the 92 octane ethanol-free fuel.I could see how the lack of fuel to keep things wet could be a problem. But I was always told to run it till it dies. That way the fuel won't gum up on me.

I just replaced the piston and jug about 2 years or less ago and barely ran the saw since then. Its on older Stihl 044.I'll look into replacing air filter, fuel filter and possibly cleaning the carb. I have not even tore into this carb yet, so dunno what to expect. All of this saw should have been refurbished when I bought it. Paid $450 for it and ran like a champ until the day I smoked the piston and jug.I suspect it was due to running 87 octane because of the ethanol in it. I have ran 92 octane in it, ethanol free since then. I had a wrist pin circlip break on me and got wedged between the piston and jug wall.

Alright, me for this, but I have not had to cut wood in a while. Saw has sat since then without fuel in it. Got it "winterized"...Took it and refueled it and ran it a little before I took it to the mountains. Seemed fine. Got in the mountains and running like a dog. Was at 5000+ feet. Tried to tune it as it just would not even idle. Finally got it to go and then when it gets warm, it dies.I decided I'm not going to touch it for the moment until I bounce this off others. I dunno if it just needs more tweaking in the tuning or if I have a carb problem. Have not tried to run it since I got off the mountains. Maybe the elevation was the problem, I dunno.I definitely know when I had the air filters off, it SCREEEEAMED! Put the filters on, it was not so much. Maybe it needs filters as well... :banghead:

:banghead: Dangit!Alright, so in my break caliper thread, I posted up some stuff, but no one replied.So in continuation from it, but a separate issue, I was trying to figure out what was going on with the hub, rotor, etc. I took the tire off and spun the rotor. The rotor did not look warped at all and no excessive wear. As I spun it though, I noticed something. I spun the rotor slowly and when you get to a point, there is resistance. A feeling as though it almost is a warped rotor. But sighting down it, its straight.So, I thought, maybe a u-joint? I took a pry bar and the joint did not have any slop. But as I spin the rotor, I did not recall hearing the noise I heard before. So, then I thought wheel hub assembly. I took the rotor with both hands and moved it in and out left to right. I get about 1/32" play.So, thinking it was the hub, I took the hub assembly/rotor off the axle. Now, what I'm seeing is the rotor is actually moving by itself on the hub! I took it to the parts store and he said he thought the studs were backing off.I'm gonna take it to an auto repair place, maybe have the studs replaced? They are chinese rotors, unfortunately, lifetime warranty from O'reilly's. I'm wondering if the holes in the rotors are not spec'ed out like OEM?Any rate, I'm wondering if the slop in the holes would cause that noise I'm hearing? Anyone even experience something like this?I decided to not replace the hub or u-joints as they do not seem worn to warrant replacement. I did pick up another caliper though and will be replacing that side tomorrow as well.Also, I had the wife turn the steering wheel so I could use the socket, extension method on popping off the hub and when she turned the wheel with the truck off, the power steering area just decided to puke out a bunch of fluid? WTF? Any ideas?

by Thelen PaulkI had a dream the other night, I didn't understandA figure walking through the mist, with flintlock in his handHis clothes were torn and dirty, as he stood there by my bedHe took off his three cornered hat, and speaking low he said:"We fought a revolution, to secure our libertyWe wrote the Constitution, as a shield from tyranny.For future generations, this legacy we gaveIn this, the land of the free and the home of the brave"You buy permits to travel, and permits to own a gunPermits to start a business, or to build a place for one.On land that you believe you own, you pay a yearly rentAlthough you have no voice in choosing, how the money's spent.""Your children must attend a school that doesn't educate.Your Christian values can't be taught, according to the state.You read about the current news, in a regulated press.You pay a tax you do not owe, to please the I.R.S.""Your money is no longer made of Silver or of Gold.You trade your wealth for paper, so you life can be controlled.You pay for crimes that make our Nation, turn from God in shame.You've taken Satan's number, as you've traded in your name.""You've given government control, to those who do you harm,So they can padlock churches, and steal the family farm,And keep our country deep in debt, put men of God in jail,harrass your fellow countrymen, while corrupted courts prevail.""Your public servants don't uphold the solemn oath they've sworn.Your daughters visit doctors, so their children won't be born.Your leaders ship artillery, and guns to foreign shores,And send your sons to slaughter, fighting other people's wars.""Can you regain the freedom for which we fought and died?Or don't you have the courage, or the faith to stand with pride?Are there no more values for which you'll fight to save?Or do you wish your children, to live in fear and be a slave?""People of the Republic, arise and take a stand!Defend the Constitution, the Supreme Law of the Land!Preserve our Great Republic, and God-Given Right!And pray to God, to keep the torch of Freedom burning bright!"As I awoke he vanished, in the mist from whence he cameHis words were true, we are not Free, we have ourselves to blame.For even now as tyrants, trample each God-Given Right!We only watch and tremble, too afraid to stand and fight.If he stood by your bedside, in a dream, while you're asleep,And wonders what remains of our Rights he fought to keepWhat would be your answer, if he called out from the grave:"Is this still the land of the free and the home of the brave???"

Consider the variables in the equation though. Weight, center of gravity, geometry's, etc. A skinnier tire will give more traction in such a case as well. Tread design was probably not much to speak of then, but a smaller profile tire means more weight in a smaller area.

Meh, okay, I suspect there is something else going on here... :banghead: I'm spinning the rotor and its as true as ever. I dunno if it still could be the caliper, but I'm also experiencing other issues. Maybe its a combo of both... I took the caliper off, and I spin it, I'm getting a funky noise. I'm putting money it being the wheel bearings? Dunno if the u-joints will make this noise... I spin it slowly, it kinda has slop to it, but I cannot move it around to feel the slop. It itself moves with the slop when I spin it. It will then get to a point where there is resistance, than I feel and hear bind noise and then it frees up and moves again... Maybe its the u-joint and bearing? Ugh... worst part is, I don't have my socket with me to get the castle nut off! - - - Updated - - - Okay, I lied... If I grab on the rotor, and pull on it and push with my hands, it feels like it has about 1/32 of play. I pried the U-joint and none of it would budge any. So it sounds like my hub assembly is shot? If the castle nut was just a smidge loose, would it do this?

Jeep?

Russ, I nominate you to make me one! ....I'd love to have a plunger machined out instead of a dowel... Then again, I also would not use a copper piper for the outer either. I'd like to get one in a stainless steel! - - - Updated - - - Eh? Really... That is one small pump!

WOW!

Hey! Looks like were sharing the same weather! Was a nice sunny day here too! Low 60's.

It was like Sept. of 2011? Went about 6-8 months on the first pump and then went to the grocery store one day down the street. Got back in to go home after getting the groceries and did not notice the pump prime. Thats when I noticed. Checked the fuse and it was blown. Replaced it, kept blowing. Had it brought home on a flatbed tow truck. So I've had this 2nd one now for about 1 1/2 years, no problem. - - - Updated - - - I understand where you are coming from. But IMHO, unfortunately there is not one single company out there that has not gone through their years without problems. Yea, a fuel pressure gauge is paramount! Even if you have an AD and its working properly, you don't know whether or not its at the correct pressures. HEY! I also noticed, you live in spirit lake! Maybe we can meet someday!

Well, its possible, I suppose. Very large fire piston! Their made to be a little more portable! :lol:Worked on this project last night. Was having trouble getting a groove cut in the dowel for the o-ring. Took me some time to figure out how to get it a bit functional. Still don't think I have it where I want it. Put my dowel in the drill and the end wobbled too much and did not give me a concentric groove.Wish I knew someone with a lathe!I broke down and did 2 o-rings next to each other and then did the super glue. Fidgeting around with it today. Takes form! The guy was not kidding when he said 50 tries. I have yet to get an ember to stay lit. I'm getting it burn some and have lots of smoke. The knob on the end reaally helps to push. As you have to push FAST and pretty hard.Using beeswax as my lube, too. Out of the materials I got last night:1. 2' section of 1/2" copper tube2. 4 1/2" caps3. 1 1/2" 3' oak dowel4. 9/16" o-rings5. 2" wooden knob ballsI soldered the caps on the copper for an airtight seal. Lots of lube in the beginning to get it to slide down the tube easier. With this much material, I'm able to make FOUR(4) fire pistons for less than $15!I think I'm gonna try making some char cloth and see how that goes. I don't want to have to use char cloth as that is not something readily available in the woods. Maybe some birch bark or moss?I'm wondering if the dimensions are the proper size. As it does not seem it needs this mush oomph to make it work. I was reading somewhere that some of them only require the push of your finger!

I call upon this thread to be brought back from the dead! Here is a recent find! http://www.primitiveways.com/Fire%20Piston%20using%20commercial%20materials.html Going to the hardware store tonight to hopefully get the materials. Figured I'd pass this on for others who are interested. Could not justify buying one so I will build one!

Check your connections, maybe add some di-electric grease. If you sent your warranty card in, if after troubleshooting it, you should be able to get a replacement.When I got my first AD, the pump burnt out in less than a year. Seals on the motor went bad and diesel fuel got in it and ruined it. They promptly sent me a new pump no questions asked and I've had this one over a year now no problems.If I were you, check out the mechanical lift pumps like, DTT Assassin and Fuel boss. The great thing about it, is now you have the extra parts from the airdog and can make it an even better setup...

As well, be careful to know whether or not you would be legal taking a bear past hunting hours. They may still apply in a depredation kill... Best bet now, is to introduce him to the friendly fence... Maybe even try wrapping the trunk of the trees with barb wire to keep him from climbing....