hex0rz

<-- Smart@$$! Hmm, I'll look into it more. I coulda sworn I did not see any Ev2 mechanicals...

I would like to semi-truck wheels on this thing! I never thought of doing that...

Alright fellas, I took a look at the gauge and probe a while back. Pulled up a chart and tested the probe. Put a flame to the probe, looked at the EGT gauge and measured voltage. Voltage showed that it correlated to be within 25 degrees of actual temp. I burnt the soot off the probe and it was fine until about a week ago. Thankfully I think it worked fine pulling the trailer home.Did not want to get caught with my pants down so I broke down and shelled out the cash for a new EGT gauge. Got another Isspro ev2. Even though it is not the prized dipricol gauge that everyone has loved, it is refreshing to have!Much brighter than the dipricol and ALOT more sensitive to the temps. It kind of scares me a little as I may have been pushing the truck more than I thought... I dunno how hard though as it seems to run fine. I know my mileage has taken a dive, but if that is the only thing, then you would not think piston rings or the like, right?I had the comp on 5x5 and let her rip! When I hit OD I think, it will just take off from under you! But there is a spike in EGT's to about 1300 degrees momentarily. I never seen that with the old dipricol!Anyways, I think eventually the fuel and boost gauge will be next! I just wish they could be mechanical instead of electrical senders...

http://www.jcwhitney.com/key-parts-direct-fit-rocker-panel/p2000368.jcwx?filterid=d50370y1999g2j1 Well, as long as he takes it to an actual body shop and not a buddy who says he knows how to fix it, you ought to be alright. Now I suppose it will be just a matter of how your gonna pay the man!

Despite the truck being a built one-off, you still have to consider the whole truck and not just the performance aspect. In the end, its your cash. You put the value on it that its worth to you. IMO, if you cannot do the work yourself, take it to an auto body shop yourself and have them quote you for the work. Tell the guy to deduct the amount from his or your asking price. Either that, or request the invoice from him from where ever he took it so you know exactly what work was performed and how. Despite these ol' cummins being so popular, rare, valuable, however you word it, the fact of the matter is, I still would not pay that much for the shape it is in. Blue book it out and it would tell you the price for it in stock condition and at the condition it is in. Add up all the extras done to it, price it out in current asking price and then deduct a % of that because of wear-tear, not being new, etc. Depending upon a few things, body shops will either get some sheet metal and form the pieces themselves, which can be expensive and not often done if complicated. They will also try and get an OEM or aftermarket piece to replace it with or go to a junkyard and pay for the part from them. Keep in mind that if its a whole side of a pickup bed, they are charging you for the whole bed. Junkyards will rarely sell you a section of a bed. They would not be able to make their slice of the pie. MOPAR aftermarket pieces may be available for these sort of things. They may very well carry a replacement rocker panel that you may need. A rocker panel is easy to replace. All those circular distortions on the bottom of the rocker panel is a bunch of pinch welds. You just drill them out to separate it from the rest of the cab and follow the seams to remove it. But like I said, it takes a little bit of knowledge about what you need to do... Heres a couple links as some examples: http://www.jcwhitney.com/pn/c1014p3010j1s41.jcwx?filterid=d50370y1999g2 http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&Nr=AND%28make%3ADodge%2Cpart%3AFender%2Cuniversal%3A0%29&PN=0+4294905979&VN=4294964648&domain=autopartswarehouse.com&query_type=Product+Results&Nr=AND%28make:Dodge,part:Fender,universal:0%29&refType=Material&refValue=Steel Its very possible to get the parts you need...

This is just my opinion, but back when I was a bass freak, I got battery clamps that allowed me to connect everything to it under the sun. I dunno how many accessories you have, but it may be worth to get them now instead of something else. I know I'll probably get them some day when I have too many accessories or they wear out on me. They're along these lines: If you have a solder gun or torch, I would tin the end of the cables first...

Just from that picture, there are a few things that could be done to keep cost low and prevent further rusting. Depending on how deep the rust has gotten, will determine what needs to be done. Back when I was doing it for school, we would just take a screwdriver and prod at it to see if it'd punch through or not. If it does not punch through and/or does not buckle in from being thin, then its possible to avoid panel replacements. If you were to grind the rust out or sandblast it, it would be a tell tale sign whether or not it needs replaced. It does not take much time to go through the steps from least extreme to most extreme to figure it out. Replacement is going to be the most expensive obviously. But for a knowledgeable person, it can be done pretty easily. If you can avoid replacements, there are tons of products out there that can kill the rust and keep the rust away. IIRC we used PPG products that would etch the metal good and kill the rust off. Then if needed, we would reinforce the area with a fiberglass body filler and finish over it with regular body filler. Then hit it with a self-etching primer(zinc rich). After that, I would start hitting all the lower areas with a bed-liner spray to keep rust from happening again... ALSO, if you wanted to DIY it, there is a product called POR15. Its some decent stuff, I have used it before and does not require a topcoat. Although, IIRC, you can topcoat it if you wanted. http://www.por15.com/

I believe I still have the old cap. If I can find it I'm gonna put that on and see if it is indeed the cap. Problem is, I gotta have a locking cap on, as the areas I work in, people will steal your fuel...

Well, first chance I can get to look at this will probably be tomorrow. I did take a gander under for a moment and noticed the fill line is mainly metal until a little bit before the tank. I would think that if I need to make a vent, it would have to be at this point and then zip tie the hose up above the filling point. I'm gonna see if I can access or see the port on the tank itself and clean it out or whatever it needs to work again, first.Had to make a trip with the trailer today for warranty work so I experienced more of the tank vacuum effect again. It gets pretty noticeable at about half empty...Also, I wonder, you guys think this sort of thing could affect mileage?

This thread is started in the 3rd gen CR forum. So if it is indeed an '02, it should be moved to the appropriate place, no?

I dunno if this sort of thing will help? You have a 2nd gen or a 3rd gen? Don't the 3rd gens have an 48re not a 47re? I dunno if they are still susceptible to this sort of problems the 47re's do...

That guy beat a Porsche!Goes to show you, a truck is still the best vehicle out there... I sure wish I could get his seats, too! Kind of shocked that this was done over in Europe. Did not think they could fit a full size truck on the road!

The father in law will get a kick out of this!

I bought my truck with an edge comp in it. Has a 53 block. I got rid of it after a year or so but just recently got another one. Both times the pump is tapped. I cannot recall the thread, but there was a discussion on the idea of the cause of the crack in the 53 block.Anyways, I'm not gonna look back on it and I for one will be using a comp with mine. Just don't get too crazy with it.

Not sure if the belt will stretch out like a new chain for a chainsaw, but if it did not come with instructions, there is usually a certain amount of deflection to be in spec. If not, you tighten or loosen as needed.If it were me, may try it just like a new chain for a chainsaw. Run it for a while so it gets good and warm then tighten it good with a bit of deflection. She'll be really tight in the cold!

Well... when I got the cap, I had to tell them what I had so they could match it up to the truck. So maybe its an EPA cap.. :rolleyes:I'll give it a look over. Could anything bad come about from this?

I do not recall having this sort of thing come up when I had the OEM fuel cap. But recently, being in Yakima for work, I had to get myself some locking caps for truck and trailer. Yesterday, I pulled the trailer home and occasionally I could hear a noise along the lines of a plastic or rubber moving as I was driving. It was odd. Heck at one point, I thought it was the cab of the truck flexing.. haha.So, I make it to the fuel station to refill. I was darn near next to the red line on E. I unlock the fuel cap and twist it off. Tank had a crazy amount of vacuum on it. I looked under the truck and fuel tank was sucked in quit a bit. Filling the tank up to full, I could hear the tank expanding back and it made the exact same noise it did while I drove and when I removed the cap.Is this a problem? I cannot remember if having a vacuum such as this is a good thing or not? I thought caps were supposed to allow a vent?That and I don't remember if there was a difference between a gasoline and diesel motor. As I'am more mechanical savvy with the gas than diesel...

That sounds like Agenda 21 stuff to me..Also, God put us in charge of this land and to subdue it.I wonder what they will do for resources if they cannot manage all these fires? I guess its been pretty high on the nations management level..

Eh, well I certainly 'am not in that good of a position to buy a twin setup. I also found that on some threads, snow performance is a bad company to deal with...

Blame God, try and fine him for pollution... On a side note, Mike I know in Idaho they only have guard school once a year before fire season and they hiring process is at the beginning of the year, any idea if they will make exceptions for this year or are they not yet stretched out too thin? Probably will be getting laid off here soon for who knows how long. Might wanna change the scenery...

Why stay away from it?

Its going to become a little more complicated for me. I'm not very informed about CR trucks. I assume they have the 48re transmission. Not familiar with them at all. Hopefully someone can chime in on it. Best bet may be to atleast see if you have any PCM codes and/or take it to a shop if you do not get an answer on here. Depends on how badly you want it fixed.

Okay, you gotta help me here. I have alot of trouble understanding why in the world a person wants a truck lifted sooo high? I'm not saying 5" lift is big or small, as I have no idea how that really looks in person. But to me, there comes a point where lifting it anymore and it just does not look right. My logic is, yes, it is a good thing to have some lift. But anymore what good are you doing? The lowest area on the truck is the differential housing. If you can't go over something without hitting that then whats the point? :shrug:Bigger tires to raise the whole truck is a diff. story...

I too 'am in your same shoes. I ran almost exactly those same numbers when pulling my trailer. Except, I dunno what your MPG's are compared to mine.I was considering the propane injection setup for more MPG's but got steered away from it and was pointed to a water/meth kit like your considering. My curiosity is whether or not the water/meth kit can give me just as good mpg numbers as the propane setup or better? Yea, there is trade-off as the water/meth kit can cool things down.Anyways, I'd be interested what others have to say as well. I'm sure cumminsforum would have more people that would chime in on it though...

Ugh... I was hoping cummins would stay with an inline design! I'm willing to bet most of the reason why automakers don't go to diesel more often is because of EPA.