angus

I went to Oreilly, and they did`nt have the Zep or Simple green, So I tried their Purple power in the gallon jug. It did`nt say anthing about diluting it so I poured it strait in a spray bottle... The stuff really takes you breath away when you get a good whiff. Anyway.. at $7 bucks a gallon is a hell of alot better buy than the aerosol cans they try to promote.. just my:2cents:

I was under the impression that the ECM controlled the waste gate, and the Fooler manipulated the data so the gate was opened slower?So what actually controls the waste gate operation? Is it actually just a self contained mechanical function of the turbo itself?OK you guys perked my interest here so I went out and crawled all around my truck:whistle: My 3rd gen has a linkage arm that is operated by some sort of pressure module connected to the boost side of the turbo..I take this opens the gate at predetermined values to prevent engine damage?

Is this essentially what they are advertising a "boost fooler" for Edge products for??

I think he gets a kickback on advertising:thumbup2:LOL!

When my Son brought his 99 home it had multiple leaks in this area. We rebuilt the vacuum pump first, then found a faulty repair in a transmission line that had been rubbing against the frame, and finally replaced the steering gearbox, PS pump, new lines a few weeks ago. This seems to have cleared up most of his issues. Oil in the intercooler is a potentially very serious situation. I have learned from some of the more experienced guys on this site that it could lead to a "runaway" situation.. So I would address that promptly. hopefully its just an over oiled air brteather.

Guys, this is kind of a silly question, but I like to give my engine compartment an occaisional bath. Are there any componets, or sensors on CR engines that should be avoided?I know old school gas engines you have to be aware of moisture in the distributor, air filters, and hot cast iron parts don`t like cold showers, but when it comes to a diesel engine I don`t have a clue what I should be avoiding if anything??

Intake side should be easy enough to check, pull the boot off the intake horn, and see if your getting oil residue. It would have to be a substancial amount of oil to travel all the way through the intercooler. I think it would be worth checking first at least from a safety prospective anyway

Just curious.. When your cranking, and you realize its not going to start right up, can you let up crank again and it fires immediately. My Son`s 99 does this all the time at operating temperature. His acts like the pressure is bleeding off inside the VP, and letting up, and recranking seems to reset something.

I`m gonna save a few bucks, and deal with the free universal press one more time. I still remember having this overwhelming desire to break out the torch last time:banghead: cooler heads prevailed. As far as the Ujoints.. I`m thinking with the Spintec hubs they are not going to see very much wear n tear because I rarely need the 4wheel drive anyway. If the Oreilly ball joints are decent, and greaseable I will do it religiously everytime I rotate tires. - - - Updated - - - Man I remeber the same frustration Bill, The adaptors were close but sometimes not close enough. So you have keep being creative with various things around the shop. That Miller press, and the specific Dodge Ram adaptors looks really sweet:drool: ... I rationalize to my wife sometimes that I am buying certain tools with the money I`m saving doing it myself. I usually get this raised ebrow look LOL !!

Our local Oreilly`s has a universal press in thier tool loan stuff.. We used it on a friends 04 to do one side and it was about a two hour fight, and that was after about an hour long fight to seperate the hub carrier from the joints. Miller tools makes a vehical specific press, and adaptors for the Dodge pickups that look like they would take alot of the out of it. Dynatrac is pretty proud of their Spicer Ujoints unless I misunderstood the man they were $90 apiece.. After the $660 for ball joints I figured that must be par? Oreilly has their of the shelf brand for about $45 apiece, and ball joints for around $50 each. I guess I`m gonna try the cheaper route with the free tool loan on this part of it. I`ll just need to set aside a full day to do it.

Just priced a set of dynatrac ball joints.. $660.00 Suggested press tool to do the job right $422.00. Spicer drive axle Ujoints $90.00 ea. Sooo I`m looking at $1262.00 and I have not even gotten to the Spintec hubs ($1600.00) I have my heart set on for next months project.Throw in a brake job, and its a $3000.00 project. I think I`m gonna have to make some concessions here to get the hubs I want :spend:There is an old saying for hot rodders " Speed cost money, How fast do you wanna go?"

While were changing thermostats. What type of coolant is recommended? I`ve always stuck with the classic green in my old stuff, but the high dollar orange stuff is for aluminun radiators, heads, and such? Right?

I`m playing it safe for now. I have a couple gallons of B99 soy oil, but I`m gonna run the Super tech two stroke for awhile, and the Baldwin PF7977 FF till things warm up around here.

Man! All this is making me think that CR injectors should simply be replaced on some kind of interval instead of waiting for catastrophic engine damage:think: For any of the guys who have experienced..Are there any symtoms the injectors are going south?

Thanks John, I`ve been running a Napa gold filter for awhile now which they claim are manufactured by Wix. I`m gonna take your advice, and use the baldwin PF7977 until I can afford to upgrade the entire system. On the Bio diesel.. I talked to a guy at a local AG fertilizer business, and they sell off road bio diesel preblended, or they sell B99 Soy oil for $3.49 a gallon. He said they recommend no more than a 2% blend in cold weather applications or there could be gelling issues. He also said to plan on changing the fuel filter soon after starting Bio because it will flush everything in your fuel system. Somebody check my math here.. a 50.1 ratio would be around two qts for a 26 gallon fill up right?? Claims of a 66% increase in lubricity are hard to ignore.

:doh:Ahh... Looks like MMO is more suited for a crankcase flush... I looked high n low at our local Wally and could`nt find the super tech.. at least not by the gallon. I might have to check one of the Joplin MO. stores.I googled FPPF additives, and they go $10.95 a quart if you buy 12 QT?? Thats substancially higher price than two stroke but the mix ratio is 1/3 what the super tech was.Thats still a slightly higher cost per tank to get you under to 439 HFRR.. The two stroke is a substancial improvement over base ULSD.Where the heck do you find 2%soy power biodiesel anyway LOL!Check that.. There is a supplier 85 miles away in Springfield Missouri. So mixing 2% biodiesel @ 50.1 gets the ultimate lubricity.Might be worth taking a couple barrels next time I`m headed that way

I like your setup :thumb1:Thats a neat location for the secondary filter... How good does the GDP lift pump perform?? On another note.. I was trolling around Wally world this morning, and after checking prices for two stroke oil by the gallon "$20" low end.. I noticed they had gallon jugs of Marvel Mystery oil for $13.95.. I`m gonna run that @ 16oz per tank for awhile and see how it goes.

Dorkweed.. Just curious, How did you route through the stock canister first n then to a 2 micron filter? I was checking out AH64ID`s set up that Mike posted where he used a remote mounted Cat filter n then to the stock OEM. I can see some advantage to looping through the 7 micron OEM first, but it looks like it will reqire some creative plumbing.. - - - Updated - - - This is what I`ve been thinking about..http://www.genosgarage.com/FASS-95-TITANIUM-FUEL-PUMP-AND-FLTR-KIT-985-04/productinfo/FASS_T_D08_095G/

Yeah, his steering gear has been leaking badly for awhile. He works 12 hours a day 6 days a week trying to buy a house with a baby on the way:ahhh:I`m gonna help him out today... I picked up a new pump, steering gear, new high pressure lines, return line, and a filter for around $ 300 bucks at Autozone.. which ain`t too bad IMO.The steering shaft has some play in it.. and I was suprised Autozone does not carry a replacement. Geno`s carries a BD replacement thats a little pricey but is probably worth the investment later. Anyway hopefully this will get him fixed up for awhile.

My son`s 99 has been leaking power steering fluid from the gearbox for some time now, and due to:broke: ..he has just kept adding fluid.Well he just called after leaving for work this morning and said he does`nt have any power steering, and only has rear brakes.I`m pretty sure that repeatedly running the PS low on fluid has toasted the pump.I`m not exactly familiar with how the power assist works here, but I`m assuming that a new pump, gearbox, and steering shaft are now top of the agenda..

Dorkweed seemed to be indicating in another thread that there may be an expected life span for CR injectors?? Say maybe after 250K we are living on borrowed time.. I`m wondering what other readers thoughts are about the stock filtration system on 3rd gens... Are there superior filters out there for the stock canister?? or is stepping up to a system like the FASS platinum the only way to upgrade?

Hey Mike, My 03 just has 150K right now, and she`s running perfect. I have been eyeballing these FASS platinum lift pumps with the water seperator, and the spin on filter.. which they claim goes down to 3 microns. I guess I`m kind of a worry wart, and I`m always looking for ways to head off that unexpected" kick in the pants" we all run into

I have a friend with an 03 and his started acting like this just over 100k which happened to be just out of warranty. he wound up paying 2000+ at the local dealer and as I understood at the time they told him they had to replace the injector "tubes"?? I have never heard that phrase anywhere else since then unless that was there way of saying injector? Anyway he started having trouble getting the thing started after the temp got below 30 degrees, and after that it ran fine the rest of the day. I do remember him saying if he plugged it in at night it would fire right up with no problems.

I was just checking out the $ for CR injectors @ thourobred diesel:spend:and I just made a late new years resolution to run two stroke oil religiously in all my diesel engines... I know there has been a great deal of discussion about this subject on this forum, but is there actually any technical data that links fuel lubricant to injector longivity?