angus

I`m just shooting in the dark here..but surely the windows circuit does`nt involve the PCM?? I would pull the door panel off, and check the voltage at the connector as well as the ground. My experience with electric windows n locks are the ones used the least tend to die a slow death.

Back in my younger days I used to think they needed to be packed with axle grease:cookoo:.. I`ve learned just a light penetating oil, or WD40 works best when they start getting a little sticky

I bought some MMs for my old Chevy 3/4 and they seem to be pretty well built.. their all steel construction, and the engagement mechanism is very positive locking n unlocking. The old brand Xs I replaced had some plastic parts and one of them finally scattered pulling a 10,000lb hay trailer out of a muddy field.As for ball joints... I helped a friend change a side on his 04, and believe me it was a real SOB! thats something you don`t ever want to have to do twice. When the time comes to change mine I want something greasable at the very least.Does Dynatac make replacement ball joints as well??

Thanks War Eagle, That thread is a good read. I`ve got a dry U joint on the drivers side axle just like Dorkweed described, and it makes an annoying "ticking" sound.After reading through all the post.. I don`t see how the weight rating of the front axle could have any effect on the U joints ?? As they are not actually supporting any weight. I`m thinking the tighter turning radius of the 3rd gens may be more of a factor?I checked out the Spyntec web site, and they look like a really nice piece... being able to sevice the hub bearings, and the ability to disconnect all the unnecessary rotating hardware looks like a "no brainer".I`ll have to wait and see if my tax man can work some magic for this project, but this is on the list.Thanks again

Hey guys,I was wondering if anyone has tried a set of lock out hub conversion kits for 3rd gen? I have heard they are kinda pricey, but I have not even been able to locate a supplier..

Interesting subject... I have been buying the Howes "conditioner anti gel" for about $ 20 bucks a pop for a half gallon. Howes claims that it is a lubricant conditioner?? I think I am going to give a two stroke a try:2cents:

Is the transmission slipping? Or is it just a shifting issue? If you have a good sevice manual it might discribe what controls the shift points , and how to trouble shot. I can`t be much help other than that, cuz all I have ever worked on were older non-computer controlled trans

Mark, I was looking at your truck info, what was the 5,000+ 47RE ?? Did you go with the full boogie trans upgrade?

Its cool, my son was in the same boat not very long ago. most of my experience over the years has been with older GM stuff. Now that I am a Dodge/Cummins fan This is a great place to talk to guys who have "been there done that". I can see it is not helpful to have someone jumping to blind conclusions. It would be good to hear if a band adjustment & fluid change will get you going At least till you are ready to go all through it. Good luck!

Sorry man, I should not be speculating seeing I have not been inside my own yet. A small " inch pound" torque wrench is required for inch specs I dunno if you can convert that to FT LBS. If a fluid & filter change will get you going again? I would run it a little ways & change the fluid again. your Torque converter still has a lot of that burnt fluid left in it. you might consider dumping a can of trans flush in as well. it will help get some of that scum cleaned out. Hope that works for you

I`d say its from a band adjuster?? Never been into mine yet but I read in another post on this site that it takes a torx socket to make band adjustments:whistle: Sounds like bands are toast

I`ve been studying these methanol injection kits. They claim substancial HP gains, along with cooler intake temps, and 200-300 degree cooler EGT`s Anybody have any thoughts on them?

You know, for everyday normal use a guy could probably get by with just buying an upgraded rebuild kit with the good bands & clutches and have a local transmission guy install it. If you don`t mind doin the R&R work yourself you could probably save quite a bit. My 03 is all original 140,000 miles, and been babied its whole life. The trans is still working perfect for now, but I am considering making some substancial performance upgrades in the future, and if I can swing the budget I am going to spend the bucks on a bullet proof trans first. Then hopefully U Joints will be my biggest concern:pray:

This thread has me LMAO ! Not that your problem is funny, but I just got a visual of what a guy has to go through just to catch a whiff of smoke... while the wife looks on My wife thinks I can fix anything, but sometimes she gets this look of disbelief like I am just bull shitting her LOL !

AsTroSS, just curious, where did you come up with the 3rd Gen track bar? Salvage? parts store? I am starting to think along your lines. If I could locate a newer bar it probably would`nt be that hard to lope off the original ball joint bracket , and fabricate something on the frame side.

Mike, I know this does not fall into the budget catagory, but does your Edge comp perform all the OBD II functions along with its other trick features?

Well, my 21 year old son bought his 99 from a friend, and about 2 months later the tranny was shot. he spent 1,800 at the local shop for a bone stock rebuild. of course that included labor, but if a guy is willing to get down n dirty that extra thousand will buy you some bullet proof piece of mind

Check out www.transmissioncenter.net they offer everything from a complete shipped to your door tranny to anything under the sun to upgrade your rebuild. personnally I would recommend spending the extra buck on synthetic fluid as well. The Cummins can inflict a hell of alot of torture on an automatic transmission I just got curious and went there myself, scroll down and check out " 48RE performance rebuild"

Lightnin, The BD looks like it is bushed at both ends with a special braket on the frame side? similar to the way my 03 works?

I have looked at a adjustable "Cadillac" version from BD Diesel for $470.00 (ouch) ! A Luke`s link repair kit $69.00, but the kit looks like it only fixes the tie-rod end? I assume the Moog version is similar to OEM ? I have not called to price it yet , but an artical on TDR said around $170.00 bucks. I will be glad when I become independantly wealthy It would make a few decisions alot easier

Well, its time to give the track bar on the 99 some TLC. I have seen everything from rebuild kits, to OEM replacement, to complete aftermarket assemblies. I was wondering what experiences others have had, and what might be the cheapest, best solution?

I will check em out , and I am definetly thinking stainless. Most of the winter I rarely even get the thermostat open unless I let it idle in the driveway for an hour

Synthetics are far superior when it comes to thermal break down. The thing is my Cummins hardly ever cracks 200 degrees even on 100 + days. dragging a trailer.Personnally I am sold on Rotella T 15/40 . I change on a 4000-5000 mile interval, and the oil looks clean enough to run in somebody`s Ford. I don`t know if its the Rotella or the superior Cummins engine, but I have never owned a vehicle that runs this clean before

Well, the original muffler on my "03" gave up this morning. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on a good replacement? I really don`t want it to be loud, as I have gotten older I prefer to hear the Cummins purr rather than the exhaust roar.

Just curious but is there a specific defect in a "53" block? how do you identify you have one ?