angus

Dorkweed, I`m ready to pull the trigger on some spintecs, and I just have a couple questions. 1. How did you cut the hole in your hub covers? 2. Have you had any issue with the chrome peeling ? I noted another poster complained about this.

Its still a little pricey. The pump alone was $566.00, but the 5 year warranty made me feel like these people must be pretty confident in their product. I`ll try to post some pics and have some feedback when I get done.

After looking at the endless options yesterday. I settled on this BD power unit. Its 150 GPH and preset for 18psi. I liked the modular FW seperator, and the secondary filter blocks that assemble together for a really compact installation. I think it will fit high on the frame rail with minimal plumbing issues. Its a brushless motor design with a gerator pump, and supposed to come with a 5 year warranty. I guess I will be the test mule to see how this setup works out.

I know there are plenty of threads on this subject, but I am just wondering what everyones opinion is on the latest, and greatest. My 03 has the APPS mounted under the intake horn, and the stock pump is attached to the filter canister. I want to retain the stock filter canister because of the fuel heater, and the WIF sensor. I have been leaning towards a FASS titanium with the all in one 2-3 micron filter plus the water seperator prefilter. If there is a better stand alone pump and filter setup that can be mounted under the cab I would like to consider it.

Thanks, Thats pretty much what I was thinking. That probably explains something I have recently started noticing during cold startup. It will occassionally have a random miss.. Kind of like that thump you feel when you turn the ignition off. only the engine never dies and then it acts normal.

While driving home from my farm this evening, I had to accelerate going over an overpass when my truck suddenly stalled. I put it in neutral while coasting down the other side, and cranked it several times before it finally restarted. I babied it on home (about 5 miles) and it seemed to have no further issues. My question is this symtoms of a lift pump going out? or do they normally fail completely all at once? This is my 03 CR with the original pump mounted to the filter canister, and there was no CEL. Anybody experience this before?

I really don`t rod my truck around.. If I do eventually decide to make some serious performance enhancements, I plan to take a comprehensive approach and make sure everything works together. The main thing I would be interested in right now is economy.

I have had my mind set on a Smarty SO6 for some time... But I have a friend who is getting ready to trade in his 04 3500 and said he would make me a good deal on his Bullydog power pup?? anybody have any experience with Bullydog?? What are the pros & cons between them and Smarty?

I was browsing some stuff on Geno`s garage and I noticed their fleetgard 7 micron filter has a warning "That it fits the 2nd gen canisters but is too restrictive for VP44 applications" ?? I know an upgraded lift would probably negate any flow issues, but This has me thinking if the PF7977 is truely 5 micron it may be more than adequate to protect the HPCR injectors

I found the baldwin pf 7977 filters at a couple of OTR truck service centers about 30 miles from where I live.. The baldwins really don`t cost much more than the Napa`s. I think I googled Baldwin filters and the web page had a dealer locater.

Hey Mike, I have been preoccupied and have`nt been on the site for a while. I was attempting to make a donation but it won`t let me..? Can you email me or PM ? Angus

I thought I saw somewhere in this thread we are talking about an "02"? As for 2nd gens I can assure you that the "TQC" lock, unlock issue is unmistakeable... Your truck will seem as if it is continuously shifting up and down above say.. 45mph,.. and it will continue loaded, or unloaded at least to 75-80 mph or faster at least in my experience anyways. Its not subtle, and it will drive you freakin nuts in short order.Sounds like you might have a little different issue to me?? hope this helps

I would suspect a dry ujoint to be the place to start, brakes, and wheel bearings could be the next things to check... I assume by your OP this is a two wheel drive truck??

That stud you are refering to is connected to a conductor strap inside the solinoid housing... When the stud is turning it usually means it has twisted the strap in two.. My son did this same thing, and had to replace the starter. You could pull the starter, and take the cover off the solinoid housing just to be sure.. It will be quite evident if thats the case.

When my son bought his 99 he had the issue with the converter locking in, and out constantly at highway speed.. A guy at a local transmission shop told him it was a ground problem.. When he unhooked the grounds, cleaned, checked, and reinstalled the problem seemed to go away temporarily then returned.He got the idea over at CF to install a noise filter on a particular wire going into the PCM which cured the problem... Two months later the Alternator diedpersonally I share the opinion that if the alternator is working properly there is no need to install a noise filter.Allowing the electronics of your truck to be exposed to leaking AC voltage, or (noise) is asking for trouble IMO..

From what I read from other posters who are starting to experience serious problems.. it does`nt appear that 3rd gens give alot of warning signs that the injectors are failing? Or maybe they are just not taking notice of the subtle changes of their engine:shrug:.Mine is bone stock original at the moment, and I would like to incorporate an injector change along with a few other upgrades at the same time so the whole package plays well together.

Oh, I did`nt mean to be justifying the extra cost for the elitist claims:doh:.. Just the cost in general before you find out you have major engine damage along with a set of injectors. I was`nt clear from the webpage?? Is that $2200-$2300 for new Bocsh injectors? or are they another brand? Scratch that question I was still on my first cup of coffe this morning LOL! Those new Bosch stainless steel +50 look like the ones for me.. That looks like a great price on the new tubes as well

Mike has had a great deal of discussion over this AC noise issue.. If this turns out to be the culprit I highly suggest you address the alternator, as opposed to installing a noise filter patch.. Just my:2cents:

Everytime I look at this subject the cost, and the endless options available are enough to make a person dizzy.. It truely represents a major reinvestment in your truck..If I plan on keeping my truck until the wheels fall off..(which I do) Then I can justify the $$$.The thing I wrestle with now is.. If I`m going to go this far, then I might as well go all the way, and address every performance & reliabilty issue all at once.. which could be accomplished with a trip to the bank:whistle: The alternative?? Do nothing, and wait for inevitable issues to arise one at a time, and risk a catastrophic failure.. Or trade the thing off for a new one, and suffer the depreciation loss all over again.Please excuse my mindless rambling, but I`m thinking this is all money well spent if a person is going to keep a long term relationship with their truck:2cents:

Are you talking about the "lockup converter" issue? or is "overdrive hunt" a completely different issue?

Bulldog is actually a clear coat adhesion promoter not an etch, but it seems to work really good on about anything.. They do make self etching primer like Diesel4life was refering to, or there is concentrated acid solution you can but at an auto paint supply store, and scrub with water and scotch brite... Just depends on how much effort you wanna put into it Years ago we experimented taking a clear coat product called XIM promoter(same as bulldog) and spraying it on new aluminum intakes.. It resist heat pretty well and made it alot easier to keep the engine looking new:2cents: http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=1&prodid=56

I found a little trick for adhesion on an aluminum intake.. A product called "Bulldog" paint adhesive.. it works great on plastic, steel, aluminum, etc, I used it on the intake of my GMC, then used high heat semi gloss, and it came out looking like it had been powder coated. But the best part it does`nt come off at the car wash:hyper:

What has me perplexed about this is two weeks after he bought the truck the brakes went out.. After a closer inspection the inner side of the drivers side rotor was worn almost completely into the cooling fins.. it was so bad that the piston actually came out of the caliper.After replacing calipers, pads, and rotors I assumed the problem was solved.. Well 25k later the drivers side is worn back to metal on metal.. Lucky it was caught in time that the rotor could be saved.I had the caliper out on the bench with a C clamp, and used compressed air to run it in and out.. It seems to operating pretty smooth.. so we replaced the rubber lines thinking maybe the drivers side was collapsing?? but there still seems to be some restriction on this one side.He was on the road working today so we have`nt had a chance to look at it.. I`m thinking maybe we ought to take it back off and pop the piston out and see what kind of tolorance we have. At least we could confirm, or eliminate the caliper as the issue

I think I like the sides on the red truck best... With a little ingenuity they could double as nerf bars:thumbup2: You just would`nt want to dally around too long when the EGTs get toasty:whistle:

[ATTACH]5461[/ATTACH]Lets see if I have figured out how to attach LOL!InstallationInstructionsDodge.pdfInstallationInstructionsDodge.pdfInstallationInstructionsDodge.pdfCool! This is some info I found at Dynatrac The tools are definitely pricy, but they are vehicle specific, and not made in China