angus

I thought I read back toward the beginning of this thread where he actually left the cap off and it still died? That would seem to rule out the cap, or the vent right..?? So what happens when a tank is topped off? The return line is submerged, The return encounters some slight backpressure? How is the returm line regulated? Just looking outside the box... cause it looks like the op has covered all his bases short of getting some live data..

I think this is the only logical next step is to get some live data.. It sounds like something is aereating the fuel causing low rail pressure which eventually works its way out I have seen a graph somewhere of how the CR fuel system works.. Mike may have it in the archives somewhere??? Any changes, or modifications made around the time this started happening?

I got the "shorty" kit, so I think it should be flush with the center cap when I cut the center out.. Everything looks like a quality piece. I`m getting a little excited ready to get em installed

Well, I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a set of Spintec hubs and Dynatrac ball joints last week. The hubs came in yesterday.. The first thing that struck me was the size of the MM lockouts.. They are nearly half again the size of the ones on my old GMC. I`m going to go ahead and bite the bullet and purchase the Miller/Mopar press tools $$$.. I helped a guy change ball joints on one side of his 04 using a rented universal press and it was so frustrating I don`t want to deal with it on mine doing all four. I`ll try to get some pics posted when I get going.

I grew up as a kid riding two stroke dirt bikes, as well as working as a mechanic at a local bike shop. Two cycle oils were designed to operate under extreme conditions. I use it year around in my 3rd Gen... The reason being I am concerned with the entire engine,, upper cylinders, valve guides, injectors, CP3, etc, I have an unused 6oz bottle of FPPF sitting on the shelf in my garage that claims to treat 280 gallons??? I just have a hard time getting my mine convinced that a 3000/1 mix ratio will provide any benifit. Maybe I`m wrong? but I know two stroke works. BTW, I know this does nothing to answer the OPs gelling issue.. My advice would be to look for a better fuel supplier.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/auto-custom-carpets-heavy-duty-vinyl-flooring-kits/p2007280.jcwx?filterid=d50370y2003g2j1 Ahhh! the magic of google.. http://www.stockinteriors.com/truckrubbermats.asp?gclid=CJiUwfmsl8MCFRAyaQodN7UAog

There surely is some place to order it?? I`m thinking about checking the local stealership, but I know it will be a bend over and grab your ankles experience.....

Rhino liner?? Hmm... Maybe if it was strickly a farm truck LOL! My old GMC has an OEM rubber floor covering in it,, and a shop vac a bottle of armor all and 20 mins later she looks like brand new

Well, I`m really not looking for "floor mats" I`m looking for the rubber floor covering to replace the carpet with. I have never seen a quad cab with the rubber flooring?? but I suspect it is probably offered in their base models or service trucks. If I can`t find what I am looking for I will just opt for the replacement carpet. I think I could spend half a day scrubbing my light grey rug and its still not really going to look clean.

http://www.lmctruck.com/Features/DE/DECAZ.htm LMC has a pretty decent deal on molded carpet, but it doesn`t look like they carry the molded rubber floor covering.

The carpet is just such a pain to keep clean.. I would even consider spaying undercoat on first just to have the conveinence of the rubber flooring.. I think I have reached the age where practical out weighs fashion everytime LOL!

Anytime you are going to be welding on your truck ..for whatever reason . It is a good idea to unhook your ground cables from the battery first. I have seen people not do it and get away with it.. but its not worth the risk.

I`m wondering if anyone knows of a vendor who sells OEM replacement carpet, or better yet a molded OEM rubber floor covering??

You know the first winter after I bought my truck we had a exceptional winter with a pretty good cold snap than saw actual temps down to -22 degrees.. I never gave any thought to adding anything to the fuel, and although I did keep it plugged in I never noticed a single issue other than the steering wheel was so damn cold it made my fingers hurt. I have been running the howes this year because I now have remote filters under the truck, and some of the stories I have heard about (cold filter plug) made me feel like I needed some insurance. The more I read about this the more I think that some people in certain parts of the country are just getting really crappy fuel..?

I don`t have a winter front for my truck. I`m pretty sure all the fuel sold around these parts is winterized #2.. My truck normally takes about 26 gals on fill ups, and I have been dumping about 16oz of howes diesel treat in. I have also upped the 2 stroke from 200: 1 to 128:1 just for winter. Keeping the truck plugged in over night sure helps avoid the long defrost in the morning. and if I take the rather long way to work..(8-10 miles) its getting close to operating temperature. Its strange because you could start the thing up and let it idle for hours and it would never reach operating temp, but once it warms up it will idle and maintain??

Would this be a good reason to run additives and boost cetane in the winter months?? I think my best option would be to get my other gas project running, and let the cummins sleep in the garage

hmm, I guess I could start hitting the doughnut shop on the other side of town in the mornings?? On the technical side though... What is Cummins issue with idleing? The rpm on high idle is not that much lower than driving 55mph

Well, I do plug it in religiously over night which helps tremendously in the morning, but its not practical to plug it in during the day.. I usually have to go out and check cows after work, 20 mile round trip, so its not such an issue in the evening.

I have heard that idleing you truck for extended periods is bad?? Well, I have a unique problem in that I work only about a half mile from where I live.. Morning temps are droping into the teens, and soon single digits. I normally go out and strart the truck and let it run for about 15 mins, drive to work, and then let it run at least another 10 before I shut it off and go in... The high idle stays engaged most of the time.. about 1050-1100 rpm Which is worse,, start it up cold, and shut it down cold? or let it warm up as much as possible?

Chevrolet used a canister type filter back in the mid to early 60s.. old timers used to say a roll of TP was an acceptable substitute if an OEM was`nt available, but its been a long time since I have heard that.

.. What is one roll of TP?? I hope its not what I think.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ Kinda bored today, and found this interesting read. Particularly the facts about cold startup, and storage.

My views on synthetic oils have always been based on operating conditions, and not so much service intervals.... Ironically my Cummins lives a relitively sheltered life, and its my old GMC gas rig that pulls stock trailers, and a 12k hay trailer in the middle of summer. With only a 5 quart system this is the truck I should probably be the most concerned with.

Hmmm, I`m not familiar with the later model emissions junk, but I think you raise a valid point.. even an older engine depending on the health (blow by) etc.. may not be wise to push the limits? My concern with extended change intervals is at what point does that black oil begin to leave sludge deposits in your engine? Can you actually run 12k in a healthy 03 CR without being right on the edge?

http://www.valvoline.com/products/commercial-industrial-products/heavy-duty-diesel-engine-oils/11 They claim Cummins approved 5,000 change extension.. Just crunching the numbers it sounds like a small price to pay for the added benifits