angus

The last time I worked on them the adjusters were froze up.. I got them cleaned up and working free again. I never thought of anti seize? That's a good tip! I`m getting ready to go it now. Thanks!

I`m going to be doing some work on the old GMC 2500 today. It has drums on the rear and I would like to check the adjustment.... In the past I have always dialed them in to the point of installing the drum and not being able to feel any friction.. My understanding was that should self adjust any time you back up with the brake applied?? I`m just looking for input from anyone who might have a different theory..

Unless your a machinist.. Or know a good one? I would not even consider it. I have repaired stuff like that on a bush hog, but that's a little different.

I have been running Cooper`s ST Max Kevlar tires for a couple of years now which I like very well. I tried a set of these Hankook tires on my youngest Son`s F150. He was put a lot of highway miles on them since, and I have been very impressed with them. They are wearing great, and the ride is excellent.

Just some idle thoughts on your project... Is there a significant difference in pulling a 3rd gen engine vs a 2nd gen? I seem to remember following a thread from a 2nd gen owner who chronicled his whole project and IIRC his removal was pretty strait forward?.. He may have already had the head removed though. its been awhile back.

Post some more pics if you can I`ve often contemplated WTF it takes if I ever had to R&R??

Thanks! My hand tightening must be a little too much I have dimpled the pan on my turbo 400 on the GMC now have chronic fluid leaks. A new aluminum pan and paying attention to torque specs are my fix for that one!

Purchasing a inch/pound torque wrench is on the agenda today. By chance does anyone recall the pan bolt torque spec off the top of their head? I have learned the hard way from over tightening pan bolts by feel

I know its probably archived here somewhere, but can someone please post the proper procedure for doing a band adjustment on a 48RE ? Thanks Angus

Ordered the governor pressure service kit this morning. I drove the truck quite a bit today and its like it never happened. I`m running about 45k since the last service. I have to say that I have actually been pretty impressed for a OEM trans so far. Its very smooth under light throttle, and pretty firm when you spool it up. Then again, it has lived a pretty sheltered life. I just need her to hang on awhile longer before I upgrade.

The transmission has 175k relatively easy miles on it. I usually drive like I have the proverbial egg under the foot pedal, but I do occasionally let the dog eat... I`m thinking of doing a cascade GP service kit and a band adjustment and see if I can ease another 20k out of her?? I really had my heart set on doing some BBi injectors this winter, but both are not gonna be in the budget.

I was on my way home yesterday evening, and had to stop at an intersection a couple of miles from the house. As I was coasting to a stop the transmission made a noticeable downshift.. which I have never noticed it do before. I then turned and while accelerating the 1-2 shift seemed late and the 2-3 was late and hard. The road has a 45mph speed limit and normally the truck shifts into overdrive right around 45, but this time it wanted to stay in 3rd. As I got into town 25mph streets it still seemed to want to stay in a lower gear than normal. Checked the fluid this morning and it appears normal. decided to go down and check for codes. The truck now runs and shifts normal again, with no codes???? I am overdue on the fluid and filter service. I`m wondering if anyone has seen something like this on 3rd gens??

http://tulsa.craigslist.org/rvd/5605366535.html Here is a used one I found really close by. They are closed for the Holiday So I will have to follow up next week. It doesn`t seem like RV`s depreciate too fast in this part of the country unless they are trashed.. At least the asking price indicates people are pretty proud of them.

There are two very large dealers in Tulsa Oklahoma that seem to have some competition going between them. The size and floorplan I`m looking at is selling for $13,995 at both places before taxes, which includes warranty. After searching Craigslist for over an hour I came across a 2015 Coachmen Catalina for $12,000. The dealers can hook up with some very attractive financing through their local lenders. I could probably knock a few thousand off and get the same financing with a little research??

I bought a set of dynatracs last summer with the intentions of never having to revisit ball joints again. I only have 10k on them so I can`t speak for their longevity, but they do seem to be a quality piece. The only problem I had was I wound up needing a knurled set and I made the mistake of going through their headquarters in California... Big mistake!! I should have contacted the distributor in Texas where I bought the original set. The customer service out of California is with out a doubt the biggest joke I have experienced in my lifetime of working on my vehicles. Joey at 4X4 factory in Texas is outstanding to deal with. Just don`t make the mistake of calling Cali for technical support. Joey can answer and fix any issues you run into on the fly.

Well I went looking at travel trailers today and I have found two different brands with the same floorplan and the same price... One is a Jayco SLX264 BHW the other is a Coachmen Catalina 26??? Same price same floorplan Jayco touts their 2 year bumper to bumper warranty and I think Coachmen may offer something similar. Does anyone have any thoughts about either, or toss a coin?

Thanks! I have not looked real close yet, but I assume the chrome wheel covers are not a great issue to transfer?? I should have looked them over while the fronts were off.

This might be a silly question for all you dually owners, but I was helping my Son with his brakes today, and I`m curious .. Do the front wheels rotate out with one of the rear duals? They appear to be all identical rims, but the fronts have a chrome cover on the outer.. I`m just wondering if dually owners bother with tire rotation. P.S. Sorry I think I put this in the wrong sub forum

Ohhh, I see a discussion coming now LOL!

I only have 176k on my 3rd gen so I don`t have much evidence to back up my own opinions.. I started with rotella T which I used in my diesel tractors then changed to Valvoline 15w40w,, now 5w40w T6... personally I still have an itch to go to Valvoline 5w40w probably just for no other reason than brand loyalty. in reality I think there are a lot of good oils out there if you follow a good OCI , and it also boils down to what you are comfortable paying for.

That's why I went with 5w40w The old school wisdom that still lives today is most engine wear occurs at startup, and at - 25 your dino oil is the equivalent of pancake syrup

Actually they tested 21 different oils and there were 5 ranked as the best which included both Valvoline Dino and Synthetic. I have always run Valvoline in everything, I`m just trying the T6 because its cheaper.

I read a TDR comparison on diesel motor oils that ranked Valvoline 15w40w blue # 1, Rotella T6 5w40w #2, and Valvoline extreme 5w40w #3.. I am currently running the Rotella T6 mainly for the flow characteristics of 5w40w in cold weather. I did a UOA at 7500 miles with the Valvoline 15w40w with a Baldwin BT7349 filter last year, and it came back really good. Since the DBL7349 is a extend life filter I`m going to go out to 10K with the T6 and do another UOA and see what if any difference there is.

My understanding was that the DBL replaced the ELF.. but I could be wrong? I had this conversation with AH64 last fall and the consensus is the DBL7349 is the best single stage filter you can buy.

The DBL7349 is a Donaldson that replaced their ELF 7349.. It has a 20 micron rating which I believe is the best non bypass filter you can buy.