angus

Personally I would get rid of that fuel before proceeding any further. You see the evidence in the banjo bolt of what is going on in your fuel system. Which could also affect the Rail pressure sensor, the FCA, or even the COV, and God knows what it may be doing to your injectors. Rail sensors are pricey. So I would check the voltage before running out and buying one.

Hmmm, Fuel looks like crap.. Regardless the ECM should not be allowing your rail pressure to climb that high. If your FCA is good ? It seems to me the ECM may not be getting a good reference, and thinks the rail pressure is actually low. The RPS should have a voltage that fluctuates from 0-.5 volts as the pressure changes .5 volts is equal to 0 psi .

Could it be a faulty Rail Pressure sensor? If its not the FCA, I don`t know what else would tell the ECM to let it hang wide open.

We flushed the cooling system on my sons F150 with distilled water and replaced it with G05 "HOAT" formula last fall. The system had been neglected for some time by previous owners. We also replaced a couple of freeze plugs and found there has been some significant electrolysis damage going on. There are no present leaks, and the G05 is stable. However there is still quite a bit of sediment floating around in the system. Anyone have any thoughts about installing a non chemical type coolant filter on a rig like this?

Cool ! It took two stabs but the PayPal worked the second time. Thanks!

Yeah, I have two books on my older Son`s 2nd gen, and one for my younger Son`s ford, but oddly enough I don`t have one for my 3rd gen... I do have a MoparMan PDF download on a thumb drive somewhere. I have never checked to see if it goes into fluid types and quantities though. Now just to find it LOL!

Mike, it may be right in front of my face? but I can`t figure out how to make a donation to this site anymore. I don`t want to become a lost family member again!

So you think it would be best to go with the ATF+4 ? I`m pretty sure +4 is synthetic if I remember correctly.

When bought my BD lift pump I also purchased a Vulcan big line kit with a pressure T to replace the line going from the OEM filter canister to the CP3. The lines, high flow fittings, and T with the pressure port was only $30 some bucks.... just makes it easy to add a gauge later.

My son`s F150 recommends Dextron with Mercon in his manual transmission. I was also on Gorends transmission site the other day and Dave recommends Dextron III with Napa Lube Guard... I guess if its good enough for Dave`s trannys it should be good enough for the transfer case.

I`m due for a Trans-case and diff service as well. What are the recommended fluids for the T-case and non posi differential?

Good batteries and the charging system are essential. From my experience issues with one will ultimately cause issues with the other if not promptly dealt with. 15volts sounds a little high. Most alternators regulate around 14.5 maximum output. Regarding your rail pressure... still no codes?? how is your lift pump pressure? The ECM controls the FCA by reading various sensor inputs. Bad info in means bad info out.

I think running the valves would be a good place to start, sounds like its in the top end.. just my two cents

You stated that it just came from the transmission shop having a new valve body put in.. Was it having issues before the new valve body?

Yeah, you have to figure your concrete work separate. I`m not clear yet on whether that price includes end walls or not? I talked to a salesman on the phone Wednesday, and he told me they are easy to configure whatever doors or openings you want. He said 2-3 guys can fully erect one of these in a couple of days. They sell insulation packages to, but He said a lot of guys go with spray foam insulation which is pretty cost effective. I did some kind of price quote online. Now I think I have three different Companies trying to contact me. I have just been so busy this week I have not had time to really sit down do the research yet.

evidently these quanset buildings are a very competitive market. Its difficult to get a sq ft price, and the sales people try to steer you towards buildings they have on clearance. One of the companies has a 30X40X15 for $6,900, and a 35X70X15 for $13,200 plus freight. I`m trying to get a price on a 40X50X15, because getting the width right is critical, and you can always come back and add length later. My primary concerns are working space, security, and efficiency.

With all the Tractors, trucks, and all the other Junk I have collected Its getting to be a challenge to store, or even find a place to work on anything. I have been checking out these Quanset steel buildings from various companies. I`m wondering if anyone has one of these, or had any experience with them?

The problem turned out to be the axle on the mode 1 door was stripped causing all the air to come out the front vents. The recirc door was stripped as well, but I think that has more effect on AC in the summer. I bought both doors from heater treater shipped to my door for about $180 bucks... Seemed a little pricey for what you get? But considering the alternative.. Its a pretty good deal. Installation for these two doors wasn't too bad, just takes a little patience. Our trucks have two blend doors which control temperature, and a mode 2 door that controls bias between the defrost and floor... evidently a mode 2 door failure will default to defrost which leads most owners to forget about this one. I may have to go back and do the blend doors later, but for now I`m happy to have a clear windshield.

I went back and looked at some archives and found another member with a similar issue. the air blows out of the front of the dash only, very little if any going to the floor, or defrost. The temperature control seems to be fine. After watching the heater treater videos I`m thinking mode 1 door is the issue, and possibly the recirc door as well.. I have been noticing a single pop sound coming from the passenger floor area for some time and always immediately following startup and drive.

Well I`m driving home this evening and realize that my vents are not changing status, and I can`t get into defrost mode. It seems like I have read before about 3rd gens having a notorious air diverter door? But I have no idea where it is located or how hard its going to be to get to. Has anyone had the opportunity to deal with this before??

It seemed when I was looking at AD and FASS they didn`t offer a great deal of technical info about their design. I think the most important aspect is the motor and pump design.. That being a brushless motor and gearator pump are a superior combination. BD pumps don`t have the name recognition some others have, but I can tell you they are ultra quiet and deliver consistent pressure. As for longevity?? I`ll have to wait and see, but they have a 5 year warranty as well.

I have been running this BD pump for a little over a year now, and I have been pretty happy so far. It takes the standard Donaldson filters I wanted and the compact design all fits above the frame rail.

I have been running a set of ST MAXX tires for about 30k now and I have been very pleased. They are a little bit more noisy now than when new, but the ride quality is still great. The only trouble I had was the first set I bought developed a dry rot crack around the bead after about 10k?? The dealer swapped me strait out, and I have had no issues with the second set.

Yes we should have already considered this..the rail sensor actually communicates with the ecm via the data network. It is not simply a resistance value as found on older vehicles. When connected the pressure sensor has what is refered to as a source address. The ECM is programed and sees the sensor by this source address and translates the voltage reading into useful information. I just had to go back and edit this post.. The sensor communication is not as complex as what you would see between an ECM and another control module.

Im going to extend the change interval out to 10k and see what it looks like next year. I have switched to a DBL 7349 filter, and Rottella T6, so it might be interesting to see what if any difference that makes. I have read so many opinions about motor oil brands, but what finally resonated with me was the age old theory that most engine wear occours at cold start up.. So the 5w-40w synthetics seem to have a clear advantage in cold flow characteristics, and my style of driving seems to have alot of cold starts and short trips.