angus

With all the information you have collected through this experience. If this scenerio were to play out again for a person stranded on the side of the road I can see where possibly disconnecting the rail sensor could allow someone to at least limp their truck home, and have a better than average starting point to trouble shoot from.

Well this is the first UOA I have ever done.. Maybe some of you guys can help me make some sense of it??CUMMINS-5.9-HPCR-E-I-976573-Sev0 (1) (1).pdf

I think I would try to determine the condition of your valve guides while your in there..Just look for any excessive slop, or anything unusual. If there is? seals may be just a temporary band aid. If the guildes are good, and the seal replacement doesn`t make a measurable difference? I think you are looking at something more serious.

Gudge, This has been an excellent read. Rail pressure sensors are pricey. Its sounds like some bad luck, you have had one fail low, and now seem to have a newer one fail high in such a short span. I hope this is the final answer? If so you now have the readings (ohms) and symptoms of rail sensor failures to either extreme. It would be great if you could post the resistance readings from your new sensor just for future reference. Good luck!

I can see where and oil cap test can point toward a ring issue whether it be broken rings or a dusted engine. The issue of valve seals on a turbo charged engine is confusing. A turbo charged engine has positive pressure in both the intake and exhaust ports. I would think the valve guides would have to be extremely worn to create oil consumption of this level. The reason I say this is because it is typically always the intake valve seals on a naturally aspirated engine that fail and the natural vacuum on the intake valve leads to increased oil consumption. I may be way off base here but this sounds like more than valve seals to me.

Agreed! This is excellent reading for anyone who may find themselves found on the road dead. I was recently trying to diagnosis a stumble/misfire issue with my sons F150. I found a good forum on ford trucks and a knowlegable person there was having a lengthy argument over the cause/symptoms of the issue. The guy was matter of fact that a faulty coil pack is the #1 culprit. The next day I bought every part that could possible cause this issue, and decided to heed his advice first.. Nailed it the first time and returned about $150 bucks worth of parts to the store. Guys who post information like this do an invaluable service for the rest of us.

http://www.genosgarage.com/product/f-00n-200-798/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts This appears to be about the cheapest part a person can replace in the CR fuel system.. I`m a little baffeled that there is not much information out there as to its function, and symtoms of a COV failure? Perhaps the failure rate of this componet is so low it has not warranted much discussion??

Gudge I have been following your post and you seem to be going about everything the same way I would approach if it were my truck. The FCA symptoms seem to have you at least headed in the right direction, as it being a fuel related issue.. I wish I could offer more input but I have never experienced what your seeing other than a lift pump failure which was relatively easy to diagnosis. Please stay with this post as you eventually get to the bottom of this. I think everyone could learn something from what you are dealing with. Third gen trucks seem to be very reliable, but nothing is bullet proofq

I bought a uoa kit from Geno's along with a new crankcase breather. The uoa kit says its prepaid but doesn't specify which lab they use? About 23 bucks.. I figure its a good time to get a baseline from the bt7349 with 15w-40w vs the dbl7349 with t6

Checked out Filterspro and settled on the Blue DBL 7349. After reading countless articles on motor oil.. I am changing from Valvoline 15w-40w blue to Rotella T6 5w-40w synthetic. The main reason is the cold start up protection of the 5w-40w. My average mileage per year is about 10k. From what I`m reading, I should be able to stretch the 7k interval to 10 and still be well within the safe limits with this filter and the T6. I`m thinking I should go ahead and do an oil analysis now to verify the results.. any suggestions on a OA vendor??

Sorry so late to get back to this post, I have been totally preoccupied. For oil I have been running a Baldwin BT7349 for the last three years or so. I`m just wondering if there is something better out there. For Fuel My BD lift pump came with a P551315 particulate filter and a P550550 water fuel seperator. I like the Donaldson filters, and If their oil filters are as good as the fuel ? I think I`ll just go exclusive with them. I`m not interested in going with a bypass system and i don`t mind spending the money every 7,000 for the best oil and the best filter. I just googled the oil filter and came up with a ELF7349??? Its kind of strange it shares the same number as the Baldwin filter?? Anyway.. It looks like a nice piece.

I`m wanting to switch to a fleetgard stratapore oil filter in my next oil change.. I also have Donaldson fuel and W/S. Geno`s carries Fleetgard oil filters but I`d like to find someplace that carries the Donaldson products as well. http://www.genosgarage.com/product/ff5320/fuel-filters Wondering how this compares to the Don 3 micron?

Damn! That looks like a pain in the azz.. By the location it looks like something going through the A pillar.. Maybe a mirror heater?? sorry not much help.

47 psi!! Damn thats alot of pressure! I`m going to steer him towards about 18 psi at the VP and run the 7977 filter just for a little extra security. You can configure the BD pumps several different ways, such as pump alone, or pump with WF prefilter, or secondary PF, or both. He currently has what appears to be the OEM Carter lift pump.. From my past experience they can only supply about the minimal just to keep the truck running .

I have had good luck with the BD Maxx flow pump and filters I put on my 03 last fall.. A guy can purchase that pump alone and run the 7977 filter in the can.. might not be a bad setup??. That pump has adjustable pressure with different springs. I had to back mine down to 11psi @ idle but they have an 18-20 psi and a 22-24 psi setup.

My son is the proud new owner of of a "00" 3500 DRW 24V. I finally got around to looking under the hood this past Friday after his lovely wife ran it out of fuel up on main street (another story).. Anyway I noticed his truck has the same style fuel canister as my 3rd gen.. I`m thinking if the truck were mine I would go with a Baldwin PF7977 5 micron filter along with a good lift pump upgrade. The reason I`m throwing this out there is because I remember seeing somekind of warning on Geno`s website about using 7 micron filters being too restrictive for 2nd gens??? What do you guys think?

The apps is simply a variable resistance switch you can test with a digital ohm meter. I would reccomend you get a Chilton or Haynes manual for your specific model and it will give you illustrations and the correct procedure to test the apps as well as a number of other possible sensors

APPS ??

Olred, I would be really interested in hearing what you find out.. particularly what caused the runaway situation. I`m just grasping at straws here, but I`m wondering if the emergency shut down procedure you had to do may have locked up the ECM?? Could you try disconnecting the battery cables and see if it will reset? Have you hooked up a scan tool that is telling you there is no communication?

I may be wrong on this but I believe 2nd gens have a PCM and the ECM.. 3rd gens only have the ECM? Virtually every modern vehicle communicates data or information to and from the ECM through a can bus network. Any sensor on the vehicle that is not communicating, or the information is out of range will set a code in the ECM. If the ECM has lost communication with the network? I would identify the data wires and the connections to the ECM first. The company I work for uses a J1939 network which you normally see 2.5 -2.8 volts on the high side and 2.2-2.4 volts on the low side. this will only tell you the network is not shorted.. Lost communication will likely be a connection, a bad wire, or possibly a bad ECM.

I just did the whole shebang on my truck as well, except for the sway bar. I immediately noticed the ride being smoother, and quieter. The steering feel at low speed seems better as well. Have not had a chance to check MPG yet. The main motivation for me was all the needless rotating parts. I had a axle Ujoint with less than 10K I thought I could salvage, and it already had a dry cap that would`nt take grease. The unit bearings there is no way to really know the condition of until your screwed. Then there is the front driveshaft.... Then probably the worst scenario is , how many miles before you have transfer case issues?? Its a little expensive, but I`m very happy with the piece of mind now that its done. BTW, them are some trick looking brake rotors you got there .. The 19.5s look good as well.

No this is a screwed up world we live in today but Bruce Jenner`s legs will never look like that!!

I think there might have been a damaged car in that pic as well?? LOL!

Finally got my truck back on the ground last night. I decided to try an old set of 2nd gen caps first to see how I liked them.. Interestingly it would appear that Spyntec designed their hubs for 2nd gens

3.55 is a great all around gear with OEM tires.. I know there is a formula to recalculate for different tires, but I currently don`t know where to find it.. Maybe someone else can chime in??? CTcummins24v makes a good point, if you ever decide to sell?? You could probably locate a used set of 4.10 axles if you looked hard enough, but that might not be low enough with 37s"? WOW!