angus

I got the spring assortment from BD yesterday. Went with the lightest one, and the pressure at the CP3 is now running 11psi @ idle. So I`m thinking this should be more than adequate, and not have to drive the pump any harder than nessesary. I really like the arrangement and the filters. I just hope the longivity is what they say it is.

Cool, I think thats the setup I want to go with. After crawling around in the floor board I don`t think its going to be that bad fishing the stuff down and through the firewall from the drivers side of the dash.

I have another 1st grade question here.. What is the root cause of high exhaust temerature in a turbo diesel? 1. I understand that one componet is engine load 2. I know on a naturally aspirated gasoline engine that a lean air/fuel mixture will cause high exhaust temps. 3. From what I have read, a turbo diesel appears to be just the opposite? Is it a lack of air from the turbo that creates the condition?

AH, Do you have any pics of your installation? I originally thought it was designed to mount in the center of the dash in front of the radio.. After looking at it some more I think its designed to be on the drivers side?? That looks to be much easier to route the lines..

How much of a hassle was the dash pod installation? That would be my first choice, but I`m not sure how much of the dash I will have to disassemble to even get to it?

http://www.genosgarage.com/DASH-MOUNT-TRIPLE-GAUGE-POD-03-09/productinfo/GM-DG-15020/ http://www.genosgarage.com/WINDSHIELD-GAUGE-POD-TRIPLE-03-09/productinfo/GM-18-017/ Here is a look, I noticed the windshield mount looks interesting and might be a little easier on the install???

The Tech guy at BD is sending me some different springs to try. He said they do have higher pressure springs that cater to the extreme performance crowd, but the pump should have shipped with the lightest spring installed. The truck seems to run just fine at 22psi, but I want to get it dialed down to around 12-15 @ idle. ON THE GAUGES topic.. I kind of like the three gauge dash pod I have seen for the 3rd gen trucks. Anybody have any experience with these ? or getting to the forward underneath part of the dash? It looks like a guy might have to disassemble half of the dash to get back there.

It usually takes a about a minute for the alternator to kick in when I start my truck. When its cold and the headlights are on I always notice the lights dimming with the grid heater. Once the alternator bumps up to 14.5 volts you never notice it anymore. The other night it was 65 degrees AC off, and the truck was fairly warm already. It idles @ 750rpm and doesn`t fluctuate, but there was a random change in the exhaust tone. So I guess it could be alternator? but I did`nt notice any change in the volt gauge. I may be just chasing a phantom here?? ( but prior to changing the lift pump). The truck stalled once under accelleration, and there were at least a few episodes where there was a noticeable "stumble" after a cold start which felt like an AC clutch engaging hard. I`m going to wait and see if some more symptoms emerge.. Or this may be perfectly normal??

You know an FCA is about the cheapest replacement part you can find for a CR. I`m going to get a new one just for PM Thanks for the input.

The new BD lift pump I just installed has a Donaldson 3 micron particulate filter. and I have been running the Baldwin pf7977 for the last couple of years. I noticed this evening that it acted like something is cycling on and off. it is 65 degrees and the AC/ defrost are turned off. It was already dark so I didn`t have a chance to investigate, but I have never really noticed it doing this before. Does the fan clutch cycle on this truck?

Talked to a BD tech today and he says the Max Flo pump is regulated by different springs in the pump head. Its supposed to ship with the light spring installed 15psi and the optional 18psi spring included which I did`nt find. 22PSI is not considered normal for this pump. He wants me to check the spring and piston cup first to make sure something isn`t stuck from sitting on the shelf. So I`ll see where this leads.

I run 2 stroke religiously, but I wonder if running a tank of something hot rod from time to time might be a good idea?

Well I left for work this morning at 45 degrees Truck starts idles normal, I get to work sit in the parking lot idleing for about 15 mins everything sounds perfect. I leave work, its 65 degrees stop at the farm, pop the hood and let it idle for about 10 mins.. She purrs like a kitten?? So maybe I`m just a hypercondriac?? But I have noticed something that seems peculiar a few times lately. Would an injector failing begin as just being random from one day to another? If it happens to be just an injector getting coked up what is the best way to burn it out?

I have noticed recently a strange sound, or sensation while my truck is idleing. The best way I can describe it is it feels like a random intermitten stumble.. Like an AC clutch engaging against head pressure. I have not had a chance to investigate with the hood up yet to see if it is in fact something belt driven or not. I read another post where a member had experienced what he called an intermitten studder while idleing, and it was his FCA..?

Thats 22psi after going through the OEM filter canister. I bought a Vulcan big line kit from the can to the CP3 with a pressure tee. I don`t have a gauge inside the truck yet, so I`m not sure what WOT is.

Well, everything went pretty smooth Sunday. The hardest part was trying to figure out where and how to mount the assembly inside the frame rails. I found a nice piece of barn door hardware at tractor supply that served as a stand off to clear the return lines. The pump motor is barely audible without the engine running , and makes 22psi (idle) at the CP3. The particulate filter wound up hanging about a half inch below the frame rail, but you have to really get down and look to notice it. All in all I`m pretty pleased so far. I`m thinking of backing the pressure down a bit?? 22psi seems a little overkill for a CR engine?

Understood, and you have obviously done more research than I have. I think antifreeze formulas have advanced to the point where people should consider flushing the old ethylene glycol even in older vehicles. I have an old GMC truck and a couple of tractors I need to research and see what is a compatible upgrade. I also learned about using distilled water from this forum, and had never considered the crap that is in ordinary tap water. I`m curious if anyone has ever tried using something like CLR when they flush an old system? I have a hunch it might cause alot of existing crap to break loose which might be a good thing, or might be a bad thing?

http://www.frsport.com/G-05-Antifreeze-Coolant-1-Gallon-_p_32825.html?gclid=CNiH0qvCycECFYU7Mgod4HgAJg G05 is Hybrid organic acid technology . Alot of parts store guys will look at you kinda funny when you ask for it, but there should be someone around that knows what it is.

Not trying to dispute your claim,. but I`m also a member on the ToyotaNation forum where there is alot of negative feedback on OAT, or DEXCOOL by name. They say flush it at 75K . or your likely to have problems. I can personally vouch for the HOAT. I flushed the original (Red) Mopar coolant @ 150K and it still tested to -30 and the inside of the cylinder head under the thermostat literally looks like a new head.. I mean absolutely no corrosion whatsoever. So yeah I had to special order it from Oreilly and paid $20 bucks a gallon for it, but from what I have seen so far it is well worth the investment.

I think I would be thrilled to get 8 years out of one. Nothing lasts forever,but if this BD turns out to have a short life span? I may look at a mechanical and keep the electric for auxillary.

I think the filter modules are universal to accept most common filters. They are shown equipped with a Donaldson 551315

Just an uneducated observation, but a Fuel Boss appears to me as something designed for competition? is there any real data out there as to the longivity of that setup on a daily driver? There is obviously going to be a considerable amount of labor, and replumbing to go mechanical. I didn`t buy my truck new, but the OEM carter thats on it now lasted 45K since I have owned it. Are there any after market pump owners out there who have had good luck.. or is this going to be an enevidible reoccouring issue with electric pumps?

Only had one FASS pump, and it was a DDRP on my Son`s "99" 24v.. He ran it for about a year with no problems before he sold the truck. So I really can`t speak for the longivity. It would be interesting if they will tell you what the failure was? I seem to remember them sending a prefilter and insisting it be used with the DDRP, but that should not be any issue with a Titanium pump. 8 months and then a tow job ain`t right!

I know but every once in a while I get energetic and polish things LOL!

I have always wondered if after cutting the center out, the chrome coating might be prone to peeling on the edges ? I saw somewhere in this thread where someone had actually experienced this happening. It sounds like taking the time to smooth the edge over will eliminate the potential problem. Thanks