D-Roc

So recently I made a long road trip from Alberta, and outside of Williston, ND I got hit with a dying VP...right out of the blue too. lucky enough I made it to Minot and got some work done the next day...really lucky, due to the oilfield there...reminds me of home in Cold Lake. Pretty sure it wasn't directly related to fuel at the moment it happened, because they got me into their garage there (at the Cenex) and we changed filters (mine were new, and I've got an inline BF1258 on the frame before it even gets to my canister (PF7977), I was using PS white...blah blaah blah...truck was recently purchased (it's a 2001 with 240k miles, had an airdog raptor, and a superchips on 1-which I put back to STOCK, as I'm just not that fond of being tuned.) Other than that everything else was stock and still is (except injectors), despite it's unknown history. So my questions, now that my longwinded explanation is thru...just about...lol Shop (could not do it myself due to weather which was stupid cold, and limited resources) put on the following...(and FYI they had it all on the shelf which influenced my decision because if not, I still had 2000 miles in two days to get to my Army base for a career course which I cannot miss ANY of. 1. Reman Bosch VP (I assume 235SO, cuz my truck is an auto) EDIT. It's for sure a 235 IPVR15X 2. Bosch RV275's 3. Fass DDRP 4. Low press warning light. Yes I know a filter on the frame MAY add a tad of psi loss, but the DDRP actually came with a small filter, and I assume those can get plugged easy so I'm not convinced of the baldwin being an issue. if anything it might add some life to the DDRP...BTW, they didn't bother with that little thing. I don't drive my truck hard, but I noticed today after just checking to see what would happen putting my foot to the floor what would happen...LED blinked so briefly that I wonder if it even came on. SO, is this setup going to be OK for my use? I'm NOT going to program the truck at all with the Superchips and it's stock fueling...should I invest in the next year (when I recover from the financial hit) in a bigger FASS? How low does everyone go when they step on it with a similar setup? What can a VP take and am I pushing it? EDIT, also noticed last week when we had -20f and I just couldn't plug in, that the led stayed on for a few seconds (usually goes out instantly), and that stupid cold aside, hasn't done it since...anyone else ever had that happen? How much of these thing can a VP take over its lifetime? - - - Updated - - - Oh, and if the quality of the parts of the shop are any question at all, it was Midland Diesel in Minot...which is also a fuel injection shop (guy there is Bosch trained and really good). Derek

I've heard something similar as well, pertaining to the coloring of the lettering on the valve covers from 98.5-2002...98.5's and up (those that had the non updated case) being red, and later on being a black colored style (suposedly being the updated case).I' can't confirm this, though, and am still researching.

Neapco are a quality U-Joint as well.

Here from Cold Lake, Alberta.

I've been running the Napa platinum lately

I've got the EMS kit on my 06-LOVE IT. Along with the steering brace, it transformed my steering from good to amazing...nothing turning in my front end.For others who may be shopping...just go with the best price...they all seem to be comparable.

My buddy has it down to a science in his 97...I've watched him do it and I swear its less than 10 minutes...Heck, I think his hands are bigger than mine, too.

I just recently bumper pulled over 10g's running amsoil 80w90 with 3.55's, so that was a reasonable haul...well over 2000 miles...not much wear in my maghytec rear to speak of. im not necessarily convinced that heavier means greater protection.I'm even running 10w30 rotella in my rig right now...

There is a product NAPA sells that is great for removing glue and adhesive, but safe on paint.Can't for the life of me recall the part number, but it works great for just about anything tough to clean.

I'm running an extra inline filter on my other three trucks...98.5 has a fass 150.I think its advantageous to run an extra filter as you get the benefits of a multi pass setup, instead of just one filter doing the job.I like the idea if three...but I feel its overkill.Lately I've discovered Racor...they have a true 2/3 micron with 99% water removal all in one...not cheap, but its one of the few on the market that filters that well and removes just about all the water.In this case I'm confident in two...I made my own setup in the trucks using hardware from a local hardware store and a filter base.

If you still suspect some ring issues after all this, only sure way to confirm is with a compression test

Put your meter to the wires going into the card...(control center) I'm not sure how many vdc you should have there, but you should read something...the trace back from there. - - - Updated - - - Or even use a test light...I'm pretty sure it won't be more than five volts in the card, and the bulb may be dim, but it will eliminate any questions on finding a ground. That thing is on the roof interior...not sure if it will be circuit voltage on input or not Or it might even be a bad ground? It's probably something stupid

114.9 a litre in my area..Multiply that by 3.78...I'm at about 19-21 in my 98 which is modded, and 22-24 in my 94 which is bone stock

No issues...this is on my 98.5 which is not in my Sig. Most fuel up here is blended different in winter...Shell for certain sells a brand which in industry is called CP43...we know it simply as Vpower diesel. I'm not sure about the US but most places in Canada, diesel in winter is good to minus 40 We never hit that last year in town here, but we hit -38...lol If you're fuel is not gelled or frozen, I really don't see the need for a fuel heater-I could be wrong. I was driving my 98.5 last winter in -30c temps and no issues... Just my 2

Yep...fass 150 straight to my vp...no problems in the cold without the heater. If your diesel isn't affected by cold, I don't really see the need. Oddly enough, I live in Cold Lake, Alberta...they don't call it cold lake for nothing.

You're on the right track with welding cable in 2/0...its what I used as well.Try a farm and ranch store...never know what you'll turn up there.

You can also check your cables...use a multimeter on vdc from one end of the cable to another...you shouldn't have any...

I run synthetic in my 98 12V during late fall/winter/early spring...only for the cold temps we see up my way tho...15w40 at -35 is pretty darn thick

Napa has a lifetime warranty on their starters as well...