flagmanruss

Another vote for pull the pickup tube & inspect the tank... years ago, I had a Datsun pickup (remember them?) that would randomly shut off. It was a lot of work to drop the tank. Once I cleared the debris, I was good to go.

I think that the reason for not stacking timing is erratic results. The electrical timing is LIMITED to the timing range of the VP44. You can not exceed the full advance timing, no matter what you do. All the electrical tuners or chips reprogram or fool the truck's ECM and VP44 electronics. This is different from mechanical Injection Pumps like VE & P7100.

I have an assortment of locking forcepts collected over a lifetime. Incredibly handy for holding insulated wires & small parts for soldering (especially with nerve damage). I had the first ones when I worked at Seaport Communications ~1990.

I totally forgot that the 24Valve started out with a mechanical pump.

Nice! I had a (company) bench station years ago but usually just used a 1500W soldering gun in the field. I have a couple of little irons & a big honking iron with a 1/2" tip... Using the little irons... I stick a hunk of cannon barrel on the bench (1/2" bore, 1/2" wall) to hold my iron from falling over.

When did Cummins go from the individual valve covers to the one piece cover? Really confused!

When I picked up my used (former lease) Avenger just over a year ago, it drove perfect. Within a few months it felt like I had a slight out of balance tire... slight & not consistant. Recently, I had a more serious shimmy in the steering wheel (flat was on the rear). They found a broken belt on the driver's front. They offered to rotate the tires to put it on the rear where it would be felt less until I got them replaced. So I'm shopping tires now. IMHO, the current trend to low sidewall tires is bad for consumers. Wife has gone through a lot of busted tires on her Hundai Accent. She had been buying from the dealer but they would not warentee the tires, not even the ones she bought after the OEM failed so she went somewhere they WOULD give road hazzard.

I'm actually quite happy with my OEM standard lights in my 01.5. Now my truck is low mileage & limited sun exposure... so my lenses are good. My question is what, if any, differences between early & late issue? If I did anything, I'd stay with Halogen but go to a relay for full voltage.

I was serious... adding a by-line... "other Cummins powered vehicles" or words to that effect. My MS Site "MSRefugees" has the by line "Information & Support for people affected by MS". I was going to ask how we set up boards to cover other makes & models... OR do we initiate boards to cover the engines no matter what vehicle the engine is installed in. Asking questions... no answers...

The improved track bar is not that much... it's the install... but you have o install new parts anyway. My FTE is the longer 36" 4" in / out & SS. Don't forget 2 flat clamps.

I like the name of the site but wonder if "Mopar" might be a turn off for owners of other makes. I'd suggestadding a bi-line about Cummins. Even if the new Cummins are not offered in Mopar products currently, I suspect they may be going forward... or become conversion fodder. Just saying.

I had to hit up 2 Pawn Shops. The first one had a too heavy hammer drill... the second one has a Bosch 3/8" HD. Heavier than I like but workable. Both had genuine chuck keys. $22 + tax. Now I can drill holes with out branding the palm of my hands.

Time to do the 3rd gen track bar upgrade.

My first thought was a bread truck type... yes it's big... I used to do install work out of a SRW GMC box truck with a van nose. I built up a mobile shop in the back. I built a bench down the left side & a shelf underneath. All my bench top tools clamped in place if they needed to secured. I had the bench wired for power down the front edge... I could back the truck up to an outlet & go to work. If I used a power tool on top, when I set it on the shelf, the cords no longer crossed the work area. The opposite side was bins & drawers for materials... ladders above bungied on pegs.

EPA does not care what the mpg is... THEY don't pay for YOUR gas. For that matter, the EPA does not care that VP44 trucks were designed for LSD not ULSD... they don't care if your IP gets ruined. THEY don't pay for IPs.

I don't usually go to pawn shops but that's a good idea for this 'old school' drill.

I was hoping to find a 3/8... I have a HD metal low geared drill... I don't care the chuck size but don't want one too heavy for me to hold horrizntal for a long while. HF might be ok... I'll need to heft it.

I have always found it hard to understand getting fewer MPGs as better for the environment. I think they should have a mileage factor in there, polution per mile of operation which will reward efficiency correctly.

My old & well used... 40+ years old... drill motor needs service or maybe just replacing. When I run it, the screws that mount the frame front body to the plastic handle get HOT (temperature, not shocking)... so after a few minutes I can't hold it. It's just a corded 3/8 drill forward only. With my disability on my left side... I can't grip a keyless chuck to tighten it. So where can I buy a drill with a chuck key? The only ones I see are high priced units & I just want a basic 3/8 drill.

"Ironically, the investigation into VW’s performance began in Europe, after tests showed very different results on the road than the lab had measured. Bloomberg reports that European and American researchers allied together with the intent of actually demonstrating that American vehicles, which were supposedly built to these more stringent standards, could run much cleaner than the European cars were actually achieving. Unfortunately, the results of real-world US driving between San Diego and Seattle pointed firmly in the opposite direction. The Jetta and Passat both blew past the legal US limit by up to 35x and 20x respectively. Minimal emissions on the Jetta were 15x worse than allowed by law, whereas the Passat was 5x worse." https://www.extremetech.com/extreme/214605-vw-caught-cheating-on-diesel-emmissions-standards-ordered-to-recall-500000-cars

While the apparent actions by a manufacturer are suprizing, even shocking... I have long marveled at emmisions requirements. I'm old enough to remember the first smogged vehicles & that they were required to have less compression & late timing to "decrease emmisions" and that these changes resulted in less power & effiency... and fewer mpgs. I've read how non-smog cam grinds can get much better mpgs on our trucks. And what does a programer or add on chip do, except alter the software or the readings the software uses to make fueling decisions. Much more sophisticated than just sensing when there's a connection to the data poort & changing settings. I gotta wonder how anyone ever caught it? There must be quite a story there. First discovered in Calif. "The EPA said the device senses the testing environment by analyzing a variety of data — steering position, speed, duration of engine operation and barometric pressure. “These inputs precisely track the parameters of the federal test procedure,” the agency wrote in its notice of violation to VW. "Volkswagen admitted that the cars contained “defeat devices,” after EPA and the state air regulator demanded an explanation for the emission problems. http://www.latimes.com/business/autos/la-fi-hy-volkswagen-probe-20150918-story.html

Affected VW products reportedly are programed to respond to emmisions testing with different settings than actual road use which are above the emmisions limits. Kind of like turning off a chip. VW has ordered a stop sales order until a fix is found... units on the road are still legal to drive, for now.

According to my Local Gun Shop, my state now requires gun purchases to be cased or securely wrapped when leaving the store. They give a cheapo gun sock for long guns w/o a box. It is their practice for guns in/out to be cased. I think it's a good policy... especially for department stores. I read in the news, about a kid with a BB gun shot by Police walking around in a WM... somebody freaked out & called the cops. A few years ago, a kid in our extended family & friends thought it would be cool to "make a movie"... came up with a script... it included scenes shot outside a local school (closed for the summer). They did think of asking permission. They were seen & reported & fortunately, the one holding the toy responded properly when confronted by Police with real guns & real bullets. It could have ended very differently. As I was taught & I taught family members including children, a holstered gun is safe. The gun has safety features & so does the holster... in addition to safe gun handling. (safety on, safe direction, finger off the trigger). I used to spend time with my then fiancee' & her children... on my way to / from duty. My gun was loaded... would not be much good if it was not! I would remove the entire gunbelt & hang it on a peg until I left. We took her children shooting... 9 & 10 year old boys... and taught them that even toy guns had to handled as if they were real. I think this is something not taught enough these days. People ought not feak out over a properly holstered gun. I have carried long guns in the field "at the ready". Muzzle awareness is a constant thing & changes with conditions & people & animals. I've never open carried a long gun in a built up area. Sometimes in hunting or hiking with a long gun, I've encountered others & would back sling my gun (22 or shotgun). Sometimes, after a stalk through the woods, we'd hike back along a road or open trail... with the gun slung.

Back when I had a badge, I clipped the badge next to my holstered gun... pretty much open carried off duty. These days I have the best pieces in the safe. I have a Star BMK 9mm single stack (1911 clone) that is at hand (cocked & locked) out... I have long kept assorted barn guns (my grand-pa always kept a break action shotgun in the barn) within reach. A couple of .22s

I screened my OEM airbox (against mice when I put it back) but have not used the snorkle. I've thought about blocking the fender hole to use more under hood air in cold weather.